Hey all,
My top negative post grub screw is stripped and stuck in my Griffin 25 RTA.
Is there a tool / method for removing it, or just use it single coil ? It’s only 4 months old !
I have lots of spare screws, just want to get the sucker out !
a fine drill bit?
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I am going to follow this one. I had one strip and ended up tossing the atty. Thought about an easy out but not sure they make them that small and didn’t want to spend the money. Looked at putting it into the drill press but man, that’s a small hole and I would probably have to buy a tap. Can’t wait to see the answer to this one.
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Try using a wide rubber band between the stripped screw head and the Allen wrench. Simply sandwich the rubber between the two-If you really reefed the screw in, chuck the base of the tank in the freezer for 30 minutes or so. Cold shrinks metal-not a lot, but sometimes just enough to break the threads free.
If you’re using the Allen wrench/driver that comes with the atty, DON’T. They’re free for a reason: They’re CHEAP. Spend a couple bucks on a decent micro driver set and you’ll (most likely) never have another stripped grub screw again.
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Get yourself a set of these.
https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIAAYJ4594034?ignorebbr=true&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-Mobile&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-Mobile--pla--Tools±+Other+Hand-_-9SIAAYJ4594034&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpMLOBRC9ARIsAPiGeZCPCtA9rJfDrVnM9zfsmhzY9BVo_peBi-8upUD1oeazCR-U-9DGRTgaAouFEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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I am not sure they make an easyout (screw extractor) that small that isn’t tapered. I got one out with a dab of super glue on the end of the allen key tool and went really slow - good luck.
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Use a jewelers flat head screwdriver that fits snugly into the allan hole, heat the post with a lighter a bit then while hot and pressing hard on the screwdriver unscrew the allen screw. I’ve done it also with a Phillips, and used a small micro butane soldering torch. just get it hot not glowing and good idea to remove o rings while attempting this. It was my last ditch effort and worked for me.
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Thanks for all the tips and ideas guys and gals, but I had already messed up by trying to drill it out before I posted this question. Don’t have superglue, and the rubber band didn’t work on a smooth hole.
The Fix:
The screws are 2.5mm x 3mm, so I used a 1/16" (1.59mm) drill bit, and drilled the grub screw hollow. Took a hammer and a finish nail to the opening the wire goes into and crushed the shell of the hollow screw (from both sides). Drilled into the screw hole to clear out the crushed screw, and all the metal bits came out, no bits jammed in the threading. Got real lucky on this one, and the threads seem fine, the new grub screw fits fine. 
Hope this helps anyone else with this problem.
Lesson learned:
If any of your grub screws are tight/sticky when you loosen them, remove them and clean them (and the post hole) before trying to tighten them up, otherwise, you’ll have sticky gunky juice locking up the screw, and have a bottle of super glue handy.
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I’ve seen most vape shops have a solution since their alternative is replacement (warranty!).
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I’m happy you got it sorted out, good job 
Before I rebuild, I always clean my atty thoroughly, including screws and holes. It just takes a minute and I can only recommend it!
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Thanks @anon28032772, I don’t change coils very often and, at most, my attys get a rinse with clean water every now and then, but will start with the rinse before removing the coils now.
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I’m real anal about this. I run all of mine through the ultrasonic cleaner prior to rebuild. I loosen the grub screws a little so the usc will vibrate them out during cleaning, lol.
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You should check it case by case. I don’t wash my attys before removing a coil, unless they’ve been standing still for a couple months and there’s some dried up juice in god knows what places. Then it’s straight in a USC with hot water and soap for 30 mins. If it’s my regular atty, i just rinse it off in hot water after the coils have been removed. My RDA’s get rebuild every couple days so there’s nothing really that gets a chance to build up.
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Nope, coils stay in my RDA or RTA for a while. I think the coil I just removed was 2+ months old, used daily. The only reason I removed the old coil was because I just received some SS wire and went crazy making different wires and coils and wanted to try some out. The flavors with SS are much more pronounced compared to Kanthal.
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Yeah, I’m a bit OCD, but cleaning isn’t one of them. 
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Lol, I get that. I got the usc for vaping and well, it’s a toy. Gotta play with my toys. Hate to see them get lonely.
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next one that i fuck up, i’ll send to you
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I’ve found that the grub screws on the Steam Crave are “better” than others because the well for the tool is deeper and less prone to stripping since more of the tool is applying the pressure. The other manufacturers that use headless hex screws have tiny wells for the allen key tool and are more prone to strip.
If they could just make headless screws for a flat head screw driver, I think these issues would go away (this is my opinion, not a fact).
Thanks for the tip though. Will try this next time… and there will be a next time. 
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Deal !
You didn’t want it back though did you ? 
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How do I handle a stripped screw? Tuck a fiver in her thong? ok ok I use a Dremel, but you could use a file or sandpaper. When you grind down the end a burr will form that you might normally smooth off …don’t. The tiny bit of excess metal might give you a tighter fit. You can also tuck in a narrow sliver of aluminum foil …anything to fill the slack space.
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