With you @Steampugs, efest batts are just crappy batts that are rewrapped and given a wildly inaccurate rating. Also have to remember that cycle life is a thing too! You can only charge / discharge these things so many times before they start losing capacity. I always have 2-3 sets of married pairs that I alternate through to keep them lasting a bit longer. I bought 10 pairs of the vct6’s when they came out from imrbatteries and the other ones are shelved until the current working sets are starting to show capacity issues.
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Sony’s are my go to for sure, I’m still using my older 4’s on a daily basis with no signs of drop off, I’ve got a ton of 5’s and 6’s too, best bats IMO 
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OK, so that article listed off six known manufacturers (which you put in bold).
What I’ve put in bold here is the operative word.
Given the law of averages (concerning production) combined with “binning” (the process of sorting batteries by quality fresh off of the production line) they are usually sold in grades; think A, B, C (and sometimes more) these account for the majority, hence the article’s use of probably.
The first tier is the most highly rated (performed the best under testing), and get sold as “premium” stock.
The next tiers still meet overall industry specs, but for whatever criteria the manufacturer selected (discolored casing, insulator slightly off center, things along those lines…) get binned into lower tiers. Really no cause for concern for any of the above.
Where the cause for concern comes in is simply in cases where an employee of a first tier company was sneaking batteries binned for destruction out the back door for Pocket money. Or where some generic no name Chinese battery maker (which definitely exist; if you’ve bought a cheap watch and seen a ‘yangfoo’ brand or other such ‘no-name’ chances are strong they make more than just watch batteries) gets re-wrapped with whatever brand they see fit.
You get the idea hopefully.
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You’re right on point. When batteries by the Big Four are made, they’re tested. Grade A batteries get sold under their banner, Grade B and below are collected and sold to rewrappers. That’s the biggest problem-You never know what is under that pretty metallic wrap with the 60 amp pulse rating. One batch might be Grade B LG HG2’s, the next Grade C LG HE2’s. Two wildly different batteries and one with a more unstable chemistry than the other. I’ve read some of Mooch’s posts where one EFest was a rewrapped 20 amp cell, the next was a 10 amp. Both batteries had the same EFest wrapper, but underneath? Two wildly different batteries.
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had no clue about it… wow 
though i must check again what high MAh/Amp choices i have in IMR type batteries
thank you all very much for al replies and info
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I also read that there are only 5 companies making batteries, so I stick to LG, Sony or Samsung.
My current batteries are LH HB2s I use them for everything.
I also saw something about LG2s where the company supposedly stated they were Not for Ecig use !
Anyone else heard this, I used a pair for over a year
I’ll see if I can find the post
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I just bought some lg hg2s and it says right on the battery that it’s not for use in vape devices. I’ve read enough that I’m comfortable using them, but it did throw me for a loop when they first came.
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More than likely just an ass covering exercise so if someone misuses they remove liability from themselves to the user.
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My thought exactly.
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It is always good for people to spread the word about how important battery safety is especially in the vape community. We represent the greatest need for manufacturers to correctly advertise their batteries. If we continue to buy rewraps, they will continue to sell them. Don’t try to save a buck, just buy quality to keep yourself and others around you safe.
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Yes my guess to, arse covering, I’m fairly sure mooch has em on his list and I will continue using mine based on that.
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Hey glad you are ok
I think your mod runs the 2x 20 amp cells in series so that would give you a 20amp limit
Parallel 2x 20amp cells would give you 40 amp
I steer clear of Efest and re-wraps in general
Sony Samsung LG are good batts
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Just about every battery manufacturer has(Or is going to have) that printed on their wraps. The 18650 was designed for being placed in battery packs, not for swapping like we do in our vape devices. (WARNING:Conjecture ahead) It’s why the wraps get so banged up-they weren’t meant for repeated removal and subsequently they tend to tear or break(Looking at you, LG. Get better wraps, dammit!)
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And they probably should, like has been said, to cover their asses. I’d never seen a warning on a battery yet, but besides the 8 lg h2s that I just bought I’ve exclusively used Samsung 25rs and they obviously didn’t have a warning.
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i know about serial and parallel battery connection and Ohm law… though my mod even in series connection…it;s still a regulated device…
please correct me if i am wrong…:
sure thing is that a .15 coil at 4.2V means 117W in and 27-28A… (4.24.2/.15 = 117W and 117/4.2=27,8A) while talking for a parallel connection BUT on a mech mod… right?
if it was on a Series connection mod… these calculations should be like: 8.48.4/.15= 470W and 470/8.4=55A) right?
since we speak for a regulated device (The max it could go is 160W)… there is a regulator and in my case i asked for much less than 8.4V… isn’t supposed that the regulator in combination with the capacitors should ask for that amount of Watts/8.4=Ohms ? in my case 110/8.4=13.09 Ohms since as said IT’s regulated and supposed that the regulator STOPS everything between the atomizer and batteries…
i am NOT a battery expert or something… but honestly i can’t understand… i need your lights to understand better and learn…
a) why most High Watt Regulated mods can even fire coils less than .5 or .4 ohms…(8.4/0.4=21amps (let’s say someone is using a 25A battery) ) since they’re almost all in Serial Connection (Cuboid 150W, Smok Alien 220W, Ijoy Captain, Tarot PRo… and this list can be really really big as you can imagine)
b) Noone that i know is using batteries like HB6 or so small in capacity batteries… most people with regulated mods are like using HG2, VTC5, VTC6, Samsung 25Rs etc and using low builds like .15 (let’s see Smok TFV8 for example) (Always talking for regulated devices ofcrouse) in these terms all these mods should be kinda shouting in the streets “Al Akbar” and BOOOOOOOOOOM like suicide bombers or something… lol
please correct me, need to learn more thank you very much sir
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Hi Amorphia ,
Have a read at this and it will answer your questions. I’m no expert but Mooch is
All the best
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thank you very much sir
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In addition to Mooch’s good info, I thought is also worth mentioning that it’s been proven time and again (most frequently by Phil Busardo) that some mods simply don’t deliver what they claim.
Having blind faith in a regulated mod delivering (hell, even doing) everything they claim it does, can far too frequently fall short on delivering.
In your case, the reason so much caution is being suggested by several folks, is because IF your electronics aren’t up to the task, then that load /has the potential to be/ transferred to your batteries. In which case, in series, you’d be at least somewhat safer having guaranteed good 25amp batteries in there.
Unless the mod can actually boost what’s being provided by whatever battery(s), then it’s all moot anyways. As when you hit whatever wall there is (by design limitations in the electronics circuit), that’s all you get. Regardless of what the marketing department says, the engineering department ALWAYS wins. (That’s why some single 18650 mods will never hit 75-90 watts as advertised)
And if you are fortunate enough to get what was advertised (and the engineers delivered), then that means a proper boost circuit was implemented. But since you’re still working in confined areas (either voltage or current) when one hits a wall, the other has to give. So that means, if you have a hard wall on voltage available (depending on the remaining charge in the battery(s), then the electronics are going to try and make up for it in current. Which is also why batteries have pulse ratings. Because as the voltage* goes down, the “instant surge” (or pulse current) being felt by the batteries becomes even more important.
There’s a reason I’m not getting into a math “numbers war” with you, and that’s because there’s far too many variables at play to even bother to try. But what’s more important is that folks understand why certain aspects are what they are, and how it all interacts, so they can at least try and plan for safety. The only reason anyone bothers (myself included) is because we care, and want folks to be as safe as possible! I hope you (and others) get all that I’ve tried to remind or explain above.
Edit: fekking auto-correct. Lol
changed village* back to voltage like it should have been!
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Although a regulated mod is capable of even more voltage than the two batteries in series, ohms law is ohms law. Mods control voltage. Your formula is correct W=E2/R. If you set your mod for 117W then to see what the mod will provide in voltage you would use 117 = E2/.15. Solving for E you would get E = the square root of 117 x .15 which is ~ 4.19V. Then to figure out the amps being drawn I = E/R. or I = 4.19/.15. This comes to 27.9A. To check your calculations you can use W = E x I, or 27.9 x 4.19 which is 117W. In a series regulated mod both batteries have to be able to provide the full 27.9A to develop the full 177W. As you can see even with only 117W you are fast approaching the 30A threshold of the best 18650 Battery.
Looking at a 220W series mod, 220W just isn’t going to happen at .15Ω. You would be asking the batteries to provide ~ 38.3W.
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The problem is, they are likely 20a batteries at best! And worst case (as Mooch brought to light way back when) 10a if he somehow managed to get ahold of old stock.
EDIT: apologies. I read it as efest, not best…
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