Most tanks that use factory/premade coils use a floating positive pin in the 510. Sometimes that pin can slide out just enough to cause connectivity issues like random resistance reading fluctuations or no resistance (AKA No Atomizer) being read.
To see if this is the problem, follow these easy steps:
- First disassemble the tank and remove the coil from the airflow base
- Take the base of the tank, and while holding the face of the positive pin(The gold/brass/silver shiny metal circle in the center of the 510 connector) parallel to a hard surface. Gently but firmly tap the positive pin on the hard surface three of four times.
- Reinsert the coil to the base, then mount the base assembly to the Pico.
- Press and release the fire button to get the mod to read the resistance of the coil, but DO NOT fire the the mod or you WILL fry the cotton in the coil and render it useless.(If the coil was previously primed with fluid, go ahead and drip a couple of drops into the coil. If the mod does fire the coil it won’t fry the cotton)
Hopefully the Pico will now read the resistance of the coil, and do so correctly. Finish assembling the tank, fill and enjoy! If these steps do not work, then you got a sleeve of bad coils. It happens. It’s rare to have them all bad, but it does happen(It happened to me with a pack of Kanger SubTank coils and was ultimately what got me into rebuilding) I don’t know if the vendor you purchased them from will replace them seeing as they contained a valid Authenticity Code.(This is also what happened in my case, unfortunately.)