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NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade Conductive Grease


#1

NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade Conductive Grease
https://www.illumn.com/pv-devices-drivers-accessories/no-ox-id-a-special-electrical-grade-conductive-grease-2oz.html

I know this is not a mod or atty and kind of unusual to mention, but if anyone else is having this issue I highly recommend it.
I was having issues with the slides on a year old Nitecore battery charger. The slides became hard to move and felt rough to the point I was about to get rid of it. I dabbed a small amount of NO-OX-ID on the slides and worked them open a couple of times. Amazing!!, slides are working like they were new again and have maintained the results for well over a month of heavy use. EXCELLENT stuff.


#2

The slides are tough but never bothered me enuff to use any lube, thks! I use similar no ox grease for my mechs tho so thats shareable too. This appears safe for them where silicone and petroleum stuff degrades o-rings. That price seems nice enuff and believe i paid about that for only 1 oz which prob last my lifetime anyway for the little bit u need. I found this thread helpful when i decided to start using it http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?126645-Comprehensive-Grease-and-Lube-Thread


#3

It’s worth emphasizing that this is electrically conductive.

Translation: don’t go nuts while applying this, as you don’t want any of this dropping onto the circuit board and creating an electrical connection out of the blue, when it lands “God knows where”. Results could be from “unfortunate” to a noteworthy hazard.

It’s probably great for mechs (where you want a solid ground connection from the battery door, through the outside chassis, to the top cap), or for faders in an eq (very common use for this type of product), etc…

But honestly? I’d strongly recommend a non-conductive lubricant for plastic sled rails on things like a battery charger. :wink:


#4

good advice there, i didnt really look as to wear the actual connection is, perhaps for that u are better off w/ a non conductive one but keep it off where the actual pos/neg connection is. i would tear apart my older one but lent it to my brother and we all know how soon ill see that again.


#5

I applied it with a Q tip sparingly, it is not liquid, the slides ride in a tray, The metal contact rides in a metal channel on a plastic tray, the circuit boards are not underneath. But thanks for the criticism and critique yes common sense should always rule.


#6

On plastics I always use RC Car lubes made to not affect plastic. Check out your local Hobby Shop


#7

Wise choice (with the qtip)!

BTW, my post was targeted primarily to someone who decided to try it, but wasn’t familiar with it, or it’s intended applications. :wink:
It wasn’t meant to imply you didn’t know what you were doing. Apologies if it came across as such!


#8

@David5362 I couldn’t agree more on this stuff. I used to use a similar brand way back in the day of my beloved Provaris which had BUTTER smooth threads from the factory, but eventually got gunked up a bit, and this stuff brought them right back to clean and buttery smooth.


#9

The stuff i found which is similar advertises better conductivity in twisted wire situations meaning if the threads arent that tight this will help the conductivity.


#10

I use Caig DeoxIT F5 Fader lube for these types of applications YMMV.