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OK, what's the REAL DEAL with Stainless Steel Wire?


Kidney Puncher carries pre-annealed Stainless Steel that should do away with any springiness issues. I’ve not used it but quite frequently see it mentioned. The description in the link will give you an idea.

As to whether SS is better, I think ithat’s subjective. I too think it tastes cleaner, The real advantage is that you can do both wattage and TC mode with it unlike any other wire type.


Just on the springiness - Annealing the wire prior to wrapping totally removes any spring back - it is as simple as having a little butane torch and holding the wire straight and running the torch down the wire heating it to a slight glow then moving along the full length - i know it is an extra step and a little bit of a pita but it will make the final coil wrap much easier.


This was my single biggest reason for changing over to SS. And then you have the whole bonus of TC.

Even if TC was removed from the equation though, the “taste difference” alone makes SS my go to.


That makes two of us.
I think the biggest difference between the two is the TCR. And the fact it’s not nearly as prevalent when it comes to sourcing 304.


I use 316L in wattage mode and have for a few years. I use it because it is less resistant so it require more wire to achieve desired resistance compared to kanthal. It runs cooler and ramps up quicker. More wire means a bit more flavor and since i am speaking about flavor this wire is also cleaner tasting than kanthal.

I used kanthal for my first year or so of vaping then switched to SS, 317L first and then 316L. It provides the flavor i like without having to build complex coils which is something i cant do as a result of sausage fingers and old man hands…



that’s exactly what i do with SS - another option is to wrap the coil(s), then torch the coils individually (holding them with a plier) then put the coil back on the drill/screw and re-adjust the ID - springiness gone. you need to do this more with the smaller (higher gauge) wires than the larger ones

i started wrapping coils long before doing DIY - and did many side by side, same tank, same juice, different coil material (Kanthal vs Ni80 vs SS) and i do find SS much better in flavor - I get many of the “hidden” notes in a juice - the sweeter flavors that are behind the main note… someone back then described SS as giving a “brighter” flavor and i totally agree…

SS will ramp up and cool much faster than Kanthal, and will produce more heat - so sometime if you do a single coil of small gauge (like 28) and small ID (2.5mm), you may find that the wick will quickly deteriorate due to drying out quicker when vaping with your same “pull” - in that case i suggest you try either a 2-strand twisted or a clapton with the 28 wire as your core (and 34/35 as the wrapping). flavor improves even more (this is a great setup for tanks with smaller chamber sizes like the Zephyrus or Crius) - for larger chamber tanks (Pharaoh, Engine…), best use a 26 or 24 and ID > 2.5mm (i found 3 is the minimum for my Pharaoh)

i exclusively use SS since then - still have many Kanthal and Ni80 reels around, but every time i do a kanthal coil, i just can’t vape it – for me, my “flavor hit” would be missing… recently also tried a ready-made triple head kanthal coil that came with a new mod - went down the bin before half the tank was over :slight_smile:
you will really enjoy SS if you’re into flavor - you still get a lot of clouds, but i really think it’s flavor where it makes a difference. hope this helps.


Excellent stuff from both you and @woftam Glad someone with solid knowledge chimed in and hopfully answered the OP’s question.


I think this may be one of the QUICKEST and most INFORMATIVE question posts I’ve ever done. Huge thanks out to everyone, especially @silhouette and @jayrell.


Thanks for putting up this post! The answers are helping me understand a lot.


Ok so I’m going to post this right here for all. I have a nice amount of SS. I was primarily a kanthal builder for a while and I’m slowly expiramenting with SS. Recently a friend suggested I make my single core claptons I like with a SS wrap. So I tried it. 26g single strand kanthal core wrapped with 34g SS. Taste is great. Here is where I am struggling with SS. Since @SessionDrummer brought up the fact he likes simple coils I decided to give it a shot again with just a simple wrapped coil… wrapped a contact coil with 26g SS in the serpent SMM… ohms jump all over every time I fire the thing… checked the leads they seem fine… when I first got my SS wire a while back so I had the same issue… it seemed to mellow out a bit once I wicked it but still more than a .1 fluctuation between pulls sometimes… can anyone explain that? This is me using it in wattage mode
@Walt3 @VapeyMama @TheFlavorSeeker @TheTinMan1 @woftam @Ken_O_Where @Sprkslfly… and any dedicated SS vaper I missed lol


Pretty much all wire increases in resistance as it heats up. Stainless changes resistance a lot. That is actually why it is a candidate for temperature control. Wires like Kanthal don’t change enough to register on a mod. Stainless also cools slowly, so even from vape to vape there still may be a significant change in resistance.




I know. I saw that. More important to have congenial forum than argue a point.


@TheTinMan1 & @Walt3 - a material that heats up faster will also cool up faster. i can dig up the technical data, but top of my mind (and hands-on with coils) SS has a higher heat transfer rate than Kanthal - so heats faster cools faster comparing same size coils - but please keep in mind, that if you use the same voltage {edited for technical correctness here} on same size (build) coils SS and Kanthal, the SS will have lower ohm, (ohm’s law at work here) will eventually produce more heat, so what one would usually do, is lower the wattage for the SS coil to get to same “sweet spot” of heat and avoid over heating.

does that make sense?


@Jayrell, not sure if that’s your mod reading resistance in real time, or an issue with the tank/build deck (bad) contacts
in TC mode (in most mods), the display will show you the resistance of the coil in real time as you fire it, with SS it would increase (due to the TCR) until the mod determines it had hit the temp limit you set )say 450F), then cut power, then re-apply in pulses to maintain that set temp. if you put the mod in power/VW mod - it won’t usually display the change in resistance/Ohm and will just show the initial reading on the screen.
short version, if you’re in power mode with an SS coil (single or clapton) and the resistance jumps, this is not normal (unless the specific mod model shows real time resistance always) - and you should check your coil installation and the tank contacts, and clean the 510 port. do you have another mod to try same tank on… send more details so we can help. normal case, for someone who doesn’t use TC, SS acts similar to Kanthal except for the lower resistance per length (and better cleaner taste) :slight_smile:


Thanks for that! I’m at work ATM I will post pictures later and give a better description when I’m less occupied with work


Great advice - I had a mod where the resistance would change constantly took me a little while to work out the 510 on the atty needed a little adjustment to make it protrude just a tad more.


couple years ago, everyone was pushing vendors to include TC for SS in their new models - it was only available Ni & Ti… i was so excited when some started adding SS… :running_man::horse_racing: fast forward to today, i find myself using SS on power mode most of the time, and rarely put my mod in TC… i like to have it working though :slight_smile:


I have played with others but only use ss now tc or mech it works for me.


yeah, me too… makes me think this is the answer to @SessionDrummer’s original question for the thread. why SS becomes the choice…
so, among the 5 most commonly used wire types for coiling, SS is the one that gives you both TC + no headache (health concerns with Ti that i would rather avoid when i see the coil turns white, or the crazy low ohm with Ni, then you have Ni80 - or Ni60 - and K1 both OK but don’t work for TC).