RDA coil help

My Ammits are by far my favourite tanks so far. Single coil RTA, they just work easy. My Tsunami 24 is just behind that, I probably needed that xtra 2mm for this build. I’ve not cleared up exactly what is causing the short.

In regards to Ω meter. Yep I have one. But I think it’s the cap that is either shorting or it’s pushing the coils around. I thought I checked for clearance. But I learnt a lesson here. Put your cap on when checking on meter. I just left it off, and I reckon a lot would too. It’s so easy to skip.

Just finished a huge mix session, so will have a look tomorrow. Thanks all.

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A lot of people like TC and Ni80 type builds. I personally cannot stand them at all. Reason being, is that the same juice on the same coil type feels like a Vape Light. I describe it as going from a Marlboro Red to a Marlboro Ultra Light. I get no, as you put it, OOOMF from the vape at all. As with most things vaping though, this is a matter of opinion or perspective. But for me, I only use Ni80 to make staged heating coils and even then, those coils use a majority of Kanthal. Try this: Build 2 sets of the exact same coils. One set Kanthal, the other in SS or Ti Or Ni80. Use the exact same juice on both sets of coils, same wattage and see if you feel the same way I do about TC and Ni80 coils. I tossed out 6 rolls of wire and no longer use anything but Kanthal for almost all my builds.

Absolutely. That’s a lot of wire to heat up at once. [quote=“BoDarc, post:20, topic:100115”]
My understanding TC requires spacing your coil.
[/quote]

More important with Titanium. With SS it’s important to work the coil after installing so that it glows evenly from the inside out and with no hot spots. You should not be getting TI or Nickel to a glow at all, hence the spacing. But if you don’t want to mess with it then certainly you can space them and they will work fine.

Temp control relies on changing resistance of the heating wire to determine temperature. The range of resistance change across the temperature band using SS in our mods is far more narrow than TI or NI, and therefor much more susceptible to malfunction if there are any little imperfections in the atty or 510. If you have other TC mods you can move the atty to another mod. You get the same behavior you can bet it’s the atty. If not, I would do the following -

  1. Take the coils off the atty and check the atty for resistance. It should be zero. If you get anything at all then you have a short. If you don’t, wiggle the atty some while connected to your ohm meter. Wiggle the posts. If resistance appears on the meter or any post will move even a little bit, I’d toss that atty! Well you could tighten the center pin if it’s got a screw head and try again. But if all seems solid…
  2. Lower the number of wraps (you should do this regardless) to 4 or 5 wraps per coil. Reinstall and make sure they fire evenly and from the inside out. Check resistance using the wiggling suggestions above. If the ohms jump even a little when you mess with it you probably have a bad connection. Make sure the post clamps are tight on the wire.
  3. Put the top back on the atty and check resistance again. Any difference from above and you have a problem with the coil touching the inside wall of the top cap. You’ll probably need to move the coil in closer to the posts. If you can’t eliminate this you may need to rebuild using a smaller ID build. But from the looks of your photos that shouldn’t be a problem if you reduce the wraps.
  4. For me, I get the best results from SS clapton coils when they are contact coils. As a last resort you could space them to see if that fixes the problem.

If all this fails, and you have a solid build that you confirm isn’t really shorting out, then shrug your shoulders and vape in wattage mode. Believe me if you reduce the number of wraps you will also reduce your ramp up time. So if you went to 5 wraps per coil then you should get a great vape with around 60 watts. Edit - I’ve had atty’s work flawlessly in wattage mode but totally bomb in TC, having never figured out why. Hence shrugging your shoulders and vape on :slight_smile:

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Very eloquently put, sir. I get the impression you’ve done this before lol

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Hey guys,

Appreciate all the responses, especially the opinions on wire types. I’ll definitely do a side by side test. I think that’s a good idea, but very hard to come up with a way to compare fairly. If I do the exact same build the resistance will be different, not a fair comparison. What parameter would be best to make consistent either same build or same ohms & watts.

In regards to sorting my issues out. It’s a short! So thanks for the help my Mod told me. If I’d only looked at the screen. Please don’t waste your time trying to solve it. I feel a bit stupid that it was so simple a problem & hate to think your doing your best to help. But it was my fault. So thanks for the info though, very valuable stuff here.

I’ll let you know more tomorrow.

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This is true for all other TC mods BUT the Hohm Wrecker G2 can do TC with tight SS coils

https://youtu.be/ZKtlbY-A1FY

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Ooohhh, that’s interesting. @Rob62 So to be clear, my Wismec rx2/3 won’t like the build in TC mode even when I fix the short? Is that reading what your saying correctly. I made a single core SS wire , should I do a seaparated wrap if I want TC?

On your mod I would do a spaced coil. The Hohm Wrecker uses a different Chip/board and some type of ping technology so it will read a tight coil

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Spaced coils aren’t a necessity with SS for TC. With titanium and Nickel as mentioned above spaced is preferred since you shouldn’t dry burn them which makes adjusting the coils more difficult. I also find SS spaced coils behave a little better than compressed, but I’ve used both and both do work.

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Not true for ALL other TC mods. I’m running exclusively SS coils right now. Some spaced but most contact. In the SMOK TF-RTA G4 that’s double the coils and all are (edited - contact coils). The DNA 200 has no trouble operating flawlessly in TC with this. Can’t say about the RX though. My experience with the original RX is poor TC performance with SS regardless of build.

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I have DNA mods VT133 and DNA 75 but the Hohm Wrecker G2 has worked well with SS REALLY Well

Cool beans. I’ve not used one. I’m going to edit my last post though because I mistakenly said spaced in the G4 but I meant to say contact. I’ll try to post a pic today of that build.

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Check this out

https://youtu.be/vIqL0OHBDZ4

DUDE!!! Ok, I’m officially intrigued! The ability to run TC with Kanthal is impressive, although I can’t see making that switch back from Ti or SS. Thanks for the video share and the recommendation. :clap:

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Yeah there is no way I’m going back to Kanthal but I am Very impressed with this G2 :+1:

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This is meant to be cheaper then smoking. Stop making me want more gear.

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The G2 seems to be sold out everywhere. :rage:

They were on sale not all that long ago for $44, I found out about it after it had finished.

You must use the code (at checkout)

http://www.vaporcube.com/

Those are all gone now