Glad to see you back Walt. I have chosen to lurk rather than participate and the reason is pretty clear and well articulated by you. I don’t play chess with pigeons. But I enjoy reading and this new found hobby. Your intelligence, maturity, wit, generosity, and perspective would have certainly been missed by me.
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And you are one of the reasons I found myself wanting to come back. “I don’t play chess with pigeons”. I will plagiarize that. Bravo!
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245 Celsius is 473 Fahrenheit. That’s a pretty warm vape. If you push the temp up all the way to the max celsius it will change to Fahrenheit. I would start at 400 and work your way up.
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You guys are all such a great help! Is that wattage good at 60 or should I bump that wattage up to like 140 and lower that temp?
What I’m realizing is a lot of the youtube video people are all hat and no cowboy on temp control. There’s really only a couple of guys out there that actually know how to work with it. I want this to work, I am seeing the value of keeping the vape a consistent temperature.
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When your coil reaches the set temp your device will cut back on the wattage and pulse it to maintain your set temp. If you wattage is too high it will shoot up past your set temp almost immediately and then throttle back. The problem with this is that it can be too aggressive and you will actually feel the pulsing. If you set the wattage too low the coil will take a very long time to get up to temp or may not ever reach the set temp.
Now is the time for testing. Grab your mod and go to the nearest mirror. Watch the numbers as you vape. The set wattage is up to you really but here is the way that I set it.
Step 1. Your screen will show you what the wattage range is at once it throttles back to maintain the set temp. It will change up and down a bit as it pulses. I figure the halfway point between the high and low of the wattage displayed and set my wattage at double that number to start. Then I test it again and see if the wattage range displayed has a smaller swing from low to high.
Step 2a. If the wattage range is smaller then I know I’m close and play with the wattage up and down by 1-2 watts until I get a smooth, consistent draw.
Step 2b. If the wattage range has not changed, I lower the wattage by 10 watts and then repeat Step 1.
I hope I have explained this in a way that is understandable. Let me know how it goes.
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Perfect! Will do!
Except that mirror part (eeek)
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VERY astute observation hon. And it’s the sad truth.
It’s not only operating and setup though, but knowing what to expect, and how to interpret the applied changes they make that makes most struggle IMO.
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I am starting to see this as I press many buttons.
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I’ve found this forum to be quite friendly and far better than any other place I’ve been on the net. I’m sorry if you think my stating verifiable facts vs. “what you’ve read” was some self-defensive act within ?my clique? You think these people like me? Lol. IF (note the caps) that is the case, I think you may be a touch too sensitive.
If you, me, or anyone else on here posts misinformation, then we should all be thankful for further clarification. THAT is the nature of dialog. My undergrad was EE, I’m an analog guy…so I know we engineers don’t like to be wrong. I also know playing the PhD card doesn’t go over well and I very much avoid it. BUT, the bottom line is I do know what I’m talking about. It doesn’t mean I can’t be wrong, hell I actually WAS wrong once. Research could come out saying I am, I would happily digest it with a critical eye. It’s what I do all day, every day.
Bottom line, we are all learning and helping each other. That is the ethos of this forum. Sure, some folks take some getting used to, but these are nice people and we’re on the internet.
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I do not need or want an apology. It is unfortunate that this forum is the best you have found. It is typical. I do find flaunting education distasteful. Per my initial reply to your assertions, I don’t know. I have now read two opposing assertions. I do not claim to have extensive study in metallurgy only a cursory understanding per tangential physics studies. Please feel free disregard some of my generalized commentary as your approach was not the acrimonious drama that other instances have been replete with. Obviously you know this. I don’t think this occurrence warrants any further dialog. What we know of each other is that we are small round avatars in cyber space. Specs of sand in a desert.
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I mean, you kinda flaunted that you were the one that was an “EE”. I’m not educated myself, but I feel as though that’s the pot calling the kettle black.
I did. I also found it distasteful. Are we done yet?
We are done 
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Can we not be done for a minute longer if it’s a question about something on the mod? (lol a right/wrong thing)
OK… so like on my Releaux I watched the Vaping Bogan dude on youtube where he goes into copious detail regarding the temp control settings on my mod… so he was great for getting me all set. I set the wattage and temperature pretty close to what he set up on his mod.
I’m getting a truly wonderful smooth hit now but…
My mod gets a little warm. It’s not hot anymore…but, warm. If I see that Temperature Protection light coming on is that a warning thing or is that just a light that comes on telling me the mod is doing it’s job?
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Lol, I love your sense of humor. Obviously I just want the baiting to indulge in more drama to stop.
Yes, that is normal operation. It is telling you that it is applying control when the light is coming on. It’s a good thing! Can’t comment regarding the warm Mod. In all honesty, Louie was doing the best job yet helping you as he seems to also have experience with the mod. Hopefully he will chime in regarding the “warm”. Well hell, I’ll summon him, hehehehehe @louiesquared.
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The Genie may come out of the bottle… 3…2…1
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Help Mr. Wizard!!!
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You were kind of right about this I’m afraid. This Releaux mod has what amounts to a eccentric bitchy super model thing going on with T.C.
It was running fine on the new settings and then all I did was refill the tank and it started getting all twitchy and weird. It’s ok now but… I’m wondering…
The temperature of the coil drops fast when you put new cooler liquid in it… now correct me if I am wrong but…these mods are reading the temp constantly when you hit that fire button, right? So if I put 70 degree liquid in the tank while the coil was still warm from the last fire… would that be the reason it starts acting like a 2 year old without a cookie? @Walt3
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Your reasoning is spot on. Sometime when you feel like wading through technical mombo jumbo, check out a review of a TC mod with Danial (DJLsb). Often times he will post charts where he does exactly what you are doing. Dripping liquid etc. These charts show the electrical reactions from the mods, and yes your analogy is on target. If you find yourself taking to TC consider getting either a YiHi or DNA device. I’ve found Lost Vape to be the best I’ve tried in implementing the DNA. It’s an amazing experience. Both of those “chipsets” as we call them do a wonderfully smooth job with TC. I have spoiled myself. That is the only way I vape with the exception of dripping with power mode on rare occasion.
Hey Walt!
The mod isn’t hot anymore. I think the board had to stabilize on the new settings.
I also wonder… (this happened last week on an older mod with older batteries)
(Follow my train of thought) When I bought that TFV12 and put that super wattage cloud chucker on that mod with older batteries, a thought came in my mind those batteries had never been forced to push that kind of power before and I wondered if the chemical reaction inside the battery from the new strain on them just made them overheat?