Temperature Control - What is it and how does it work?

Wish I had insight for you. We’ve had some low 30s here lately and I’ve had no problems whatsoever. I just tried experimenting here to see if I would get the same issue. I took my eVic VTC mini and a DNA200 outside and let sit for 15 mins. Both have RTAs with Ti builds. So I vaped both outside for about 5 mins each. Worked as normal. So even after that I can’t say what the issue is but I’m willing to rule out cool ambient air. As for atmospheric influences that seems humidity, pressure and elevation would be all that’s left. I think we can eliminate elevation because no matter where you are in Florida I wouldn’t be more than about 500 ft different at most.

I’m alright with being wrong, but that is the one consistency I’ve experienced with tc failure, and it began with our lowered temperature in the last week.
…and now it’s cold everywhere and the (similar)complaints are coming out of the wood work.
…I’m out

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I’m not saying you’re wrong about what you’re experiencing. Not at all. I’m saying I disagree that the mods are designed to be operated at a certain temperature and that’s what’s throwing you into watts. Clearly you’re capable of making observations and I don’t discount those. I just don’t think it’s how they were designed to work.

And since it’s happened, as you say “on a couple devices”, yours would seem to be the logical conclusion.

What would seem more likely the culprit is one of two things I can think of. Build integrity or wire. I’ve had mods jump to watts because of a loose or cut leg on a coil. So I’m wondering if that might be the issue brought on by the expansion/contraction of the metal going from warm indoors air to cool outdoors. Maybe the build isn’t just rock solid. It only takes a fraction of a second in TC for ohms to jump dramatically and trigger the mod to change to watts. Another thing you may should eliminate as a possibility is grounding. So since there’s the expansion and contraction going on, if the clearance between a coil and a part of the deck that is grounded is very close, maybe the cool air (if only for a second) closes that gap. I’ve suspected this as the root cause for some of my failed builds where I didn’t have enough leg length and the first winding was touching the ground post of the deck.

As for wire, my experience with jumping to wattage mode has been almost exclusively limited to SS. Why that is I don’t know, but can only suspect that perhaps the grade of wire I was using wasn’t what the mod was programmed to support.

I’m very interested in this issue of yours and if you figure out what’s causing it. It would be great knowledge to share with the group!

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Have you tried locking your ohms at what it should be?

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I think i might just be one of the lucky one’s with the rx. I’m not having any problems with mine at all. (Touch wood)
I get good batt life, and it runs my ss and ti builds no problem. Nice warm plentiful vape.
I feel sorry for those that are having problems with theirs, i went through a similar experience with the x cube2 and its nothing but a head f*#¥. :tired_face:

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Very good topic. And you explained it to the T. But your right. One day there will be a mod that will actually detect the heat in the coil it self. Can’t wait lol

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Ok… so my Griffin RTA’s finally showed up today with some Ti wire…

live in NC…
ordered them from Vaportek in SC…
tracking says it went to GA… huh?
then went to NC… (I got excited)
then it went back to Greenville SC… dafuq?
then back to NC…
a day later, it’s here…:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: WooHoo!

So I slap some 3mm ID, 7 wrap, spaced, Ti coils on this wicked little tank to see what’s what.

It’s reading 0.15ohms on my iPV D2 and I lock in the value. Settings were 50 joules at 350F in Ti, TC mode. Not much happening, very little vapor and cool vape.

I crank it up to 450F on 50 joules. A little better but I’m not impressed…

Time to go full bore on this thing, 50 joules and max temp 572F. The iPV D2 book says it goes to 580F but no matter how hard I press the little button, 572F is all she’ll give me. I vaped the rest of the tank with it maxed and even closed off the Cyclops air ports to about 1/8" gap but still couldn’t get a warm vape :sob:

What am I doing wrong here…?

Should the Ti be a contact coil instead of spaced?

Is the iPV D2 not powerful enough?

…or is TC just normally a cooler vape experience?

I have 2 Griffins so I built the second one with 3mm ID, 7 wrap, contact, Clapton dual coils reading 0.44ohms, running it at 55W power mode and she’s chuckin’ like a choo-choo-train with a nice warm vape :yum:

It could be that if 50 joules is the limit. I don’t build 3mm coils so I can’t be much help here, but with dual 2.5mm coils (22 ga Ti) I most often need more than 60 watts to get up over 500F.

Keep in mind that if the coils are heating up quickly TC will kick in. And dry coils will heat quickly. That got me a bit at first until I figured out the wicking. Proper wicking is vital to a good TC experience. You’ll swear something is wrong with the mod when it’s simply doing it’s job by not firing because the coils aren’t staying damp with juice. Pull your cotton and see if it’s wet inside where it sat in the coil. Wet not moist. If not you may have wicked too tightly.

I was never able get a contact coil to work reliably in a TC build.

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Just recently I had success with it. Rocking a dual 7.5 wrap, 2.5mm ID 22ga.

What I did was I used my coil winder and did 8.5 wraps as tight as I could. Pulled the one wrap where it went through the hold of the winder. Now I’m mounting a coil that is pretty tight to begin with. Did both like that and used ceramic tweezers to pinch the coils tight while firing at 10 watts for 3 seconds at a time. Did this about 4-5 times per coil. The vape is fantastic. I knew @Pro_Vapes wasn’t talking out hit bum when he said he did it. Now I can’t say the flavor is any better. But it’s a damn good vape, no question.

Been doing more research and think my next attempt will be with 10-14 wraps.

Think I’m gonna try for a slightly higher ohm build and try a contact coil based on the info I’ve found. I’ll let ya know how it works out.

In the meantime, check out this Ti coil video I found, it’s awesome. Usually when I click on a vape video, I fully expect to see some greasy cave dweller (I am one of those) telling me how to do shit but this was like an elegant car commercial 'er something. It even inspired me to make a meme…

Here’s the video…

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Cool video. I posted one I believe was by the same person showing how to make simple claptons.

I noticed in that video just like this one, he seems to twist his single strands of wire before building with them. Is that something you do or anyone else here? I wonder what the reason is for it.

Saw a guy from a “Twisted Messes” video doing that too…

I’ve never seen it done that way till today when I went looking for Ti builds…

Damn! was gonna post it but can’t seem to find it now… He was wrapping dual-core parallel claptons…

I wonder if that helps take some of the springiness out of the wire to help them hold shape better?

Not sure on the spingyness but I was guessing a few quick revolutions would induct some heat in the wire as he pulled it straight with the pliers.

Kinda like how a little heat helps when tweaking coils. Just a guess, seems to work very well though.

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Makes sense with heat. I haven’t tried it yet. I’d assume it knocks some of the initial shape of being wrapped around a spool out too.

Yes, I do it…it straightens out wire, poker straight. BUT I also clean mine afterwards as well.

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Cool. I thought straightening would be a result if not the main reason for it. If I can remember to do it I will try on my next 22ga Ti build just to see if there’s any difference beyond the building itself. If it shows a benefit in the vape, well there’s a good reason to adopt a new routine.

His videos are so cool!

I bet he vapes at a coffee shop.