The Woes of Wicking

I make 4mm spaced SS coils so after dry burning and rinsing I take a Q-Tip wet with some VG or just e-juice and screw it through the inner coil …always gets black, even after dry burning and rinsing under water. Tug a bit on the end of the Q-Tip an pinch to a point, or for smaller coils just pull most of the cotton off and use the stick with a little fuzz of cotton remaining.

As mentioned above it can be your choice of flavs …nobody mentioned Sucrose (sugar!) That’s the worst for carbon and ash (Cake Batter [FW]). Also Nutty flavs and anything with Acetyl Pyrazine can shorten lifespan of cotton

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And Ni80!!! Will never go back to Kanthal!!!

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Nice Idea! Thanks!

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I’m not really a fan of nickel. I have read a lot of articles stating nickel releases toxins when it’s heated up. I don’t know how true that is but I just stay away

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I think it is pretty safe as long as your not melting the Ni, just run it in TC/TCR mode is what most folks do.

Interesting thread this! Sorry for chiming in so late, but thanks for all the info here.

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I am not a scientist or chemist but from all of the articles i have read seem to contradict your statement. Appears some people may be allergic to Nickel, as they are allergic to PG or VG. I have not found any info that states that using nickel is toxic. Here is a quick read I came across recently.
nicotinepolicy.net/blogs/guest-blogs/23-miroslaw-dworniczak/138-e-cigarette-coils-from-a-chemist-s-point-of-view
Notice that this is a point of view blog. Same as my point of view. YMMV!

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related to the above!

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Aye, I only use ni80, in a fused clapton build (in watt mode). But like someone mentioned above, it can be tedious to clean with all the nooks etc. I use a brush (from coil master) combined with some hot running water when glowing them, they seem to keep up, in one of my regular atty’s I’ve not changed the coils for 6 months, and they still look good after a cleanup.

Should be noted that my lazy ass ain’t that worried about the gunk that hides on the inside, however I’ve yet to come across cotton being pulled through that has stains on it after a cleanup, so I might be doing something right.

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I would have to agree on the longevity of the ni80 coils. I pretty much clean as you have described in your reply and my coil looks nearly new. I use compressed air once i’ve cleaned the coil and give it a blast at 175 psi to get the fine specs out and to displace any water droplets.

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Nichrome and kanthal have a melting point of 1400C. If you’re running that hot I’d say you have a problem. Nichrome works just fine in temp mode. It does run up faster than Kanthal.

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I was unaware of there being Ni80 and pure nickel Ni200. I’m getting contradictory information on if Ni80 can be in a TC mode or not. some say its safe others say it won’t work.

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Ni is nickel and NiCr is nickel with chromium, most devices will allow it to work and as long as you can adjust the wattage and temp and get a decent vape out of the device you can say it works. even with known wire types I like to pop over into TCR and tweak that to get a smooth vape.

we are now derailed :rofl:

=|=|=|=Proper wicking is important for TCR mode=|=|=|=

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does wicking in TC mod need different tweaks then in normal K1? I would like to get some ti or nicr if I can find the premade ones since i can’t make a coil.

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You cannot make a coil if you do not try :slight_smile:
I think wicking is an art, as is making a coil an art. I believe wicking is the same in TC mode as wattage mode. But I am not at all an expert and don’t even vape RDA’s. My experience is just with factory coil rebuilding. That would need it’s own thread, although related its completely different :slight_smile:
I have a couple RDA’s coming from China over the next weeks, so I was doing a little pre-research here :wink:

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oh I have tired and i’m also visually impaired, so with that regard i legitimately can not build them. So i get the prewrapped coils and then wick them myself. still cheaper then factory coils and i love my little Solomon V1 RTA

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I can see how getting contradictory information can be confusing, and I’m about to add more conflicting info … NiChrome (Ni80) doesn’t work in temp mode!

In order for any metal or alloy to work in TC mode, it has to have super conductive properties, i.e. the resistance has to rise as the alloy gets hotter, and the difference has to be large enough for the mod to measures the difference. NiChrome doesn’t have any super conductive properties, or at least not enough, so it doesn’t work in TC mode. Don’t get fooled by the fact that it contains nickel and that nickel does have super conductive properties, lots of alloys contain nickel without having SC properties.

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This isn’t a bad deal for the variety of ni80 coils included. No Ti in this kit though!


What mod are you using with your Soloman v1?

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I am using the smok deviken

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Have you read this thread? I haven’t used TC yet as I don’t have a MoD that would would do a fair job in TC mode. This is a super simple spaced coil that produces exceptional results based on the comments of this thread! Check it out sometime!

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I was able to wick my tank today in one try. I was even able to get the perfect amount of cotton bacan so I didn’t have to pull extra off it.

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