This can sometimes work I would imagine, but only if the liquid hasn’t yet gotten into a “critical component” area. Once it has had liquid in that type of area, the damage is already done, and there’s a gnat’s chance in a towering inferno that the chip is actually “recoverable” (especially when you get into the component types that are soldered in via hot air, and don’t have traditional component leads!)
Usually it has to be a full disassembly down to bare pcb (no wires, screen, etc) and then a good chemical scrub to even have a fighting chance…
All good advice above! I lost two lipo mods because Juice going into the mod was allowing it to turn itself on and run the batteries below the minimum. I fixed one but it happened again. There are some soft connections and juice easily shorts fire buttons (on the board). There’s likely a ribbon that goes to your screen and that connection is easily shorted (juice). You may have to disassemble mod to clean, but DO NOT try and remove/re-attach that ribbon.
Use the highest concentration of alcohol so it evaporates quickly and easily (90+% not 70%). Don’t let it soak as it can effect the PCB coating on the board. Dowse a qtip several times and generously apply and immediately blast out with air …rinse and repeat. Let it sit in the sun without batteries to fully dry under chips. Be sure to get lots of air on your fire button and USB port and any ribbon connection (screen to board). Be careful as @Sprkslfly is correct and you can drive it in with pressurized air (into the screen itself?) Make sure that 510 pin is springy when you’re poking it with a Qtip, as degreasing with alcohol might dry it out
thanks for all your amazing advice fellas, the update is, I got it all back together, everything is clean but it just reads ‘atomizer short’ on everything, the battery bar looks fine it’s just that, I’m guessing maybe a 510 problem I dunno, I screw the tank on, it reads the ohms ok, I hit fire and ‘atomizer short’ and the ohms go back to zero and stay there until I unscrew the tank again, I think I need to call time on it
but thanks again for you’re help people, as always you were awesome
Do you have a 510 to ego adapter and CE5?
If you do, try that and see if you still get an error, that will rule out the tank and possibly pin the culprit as being the 510 pin
You could also try a single coil build .5ohm and above.
Since you seem comfortable taking the mod apart why not change the 510 on it?
I’m pretty sure you can find one that fits in there and if you change it you surely have prolonged the life on that device.
cheers peeps, I’m lucky enough to have a tech shop at work, my mate in there as just handed me my all fixed IPV4 from months ago!, happy days, he’s going to have a gander, he’s much better at soldering than I am and I can pay him in juice
I wish everyone would be so lucky as you are having people around that can do that kind of work. Not everyone feel comfortable trying this stuff on their own.
I can do some stuff, getting the thing appart and back together is a PITA but I managed it, but I’m not too experienced with soldering, somethin I intend to learn more
Eleafs 5 10 is a press fit… all of their models… they end up turning and breaking the connection. I have a 100 watt that Is the most expensive battery charger on the market…lol. Stay away from them unless you know how to replace the 5 10 with another different unit.
well I managed to get it back together in the end, it’s not the easiest mod to run maintenance on, certainly isn’t designed to be taken apart easily, my guy in the workshop just blew the solders to make it easier lol…he had less patience than me, we’re looking at maybe fitting it with a chunkier 510, and maybe update the internal wires a bit, some of them are beyond flimsy, surprisingly so actually, if he pulls it off it should be the perfect RX200
I just upgraded the 510 on mine and it WASN"T easy. For a minute I thought I screwed it all up. There was some de-soldering, re-soldering, drilling, grinding, adjusting, regrinding etc. My 510 took a dump so I thought “what the hell, can’t be worse than not working”. I got it back together and it’s working fine after a lot of frustration.
By the way, the original 510 on the RX is pure crap. It’s the same on the istick TC100w and Cuboid.
I have a feeling the 510 will give in on my Primus eventually and me having the thumb in the middle of the hand when it comes to soldering and stuff need to find someone that can replace it for me.
It seems like the 510 is a weak point on a lot of mods unfortunately.
I’m glad you got yours to work again
That’s pretty much what I am expecting mine to look like, was there enough room underneath for the 510 or did you have to attack it with a dremmel??..did you replace those crappy wires? can’t believe they were even in there
You have to trim a lot of metal from the chassis in order to get the 510 to fit as well as a bit of the plastic battery sled. http://www.varitube.com/VT-510-V1-Connector--Self-adjusting-Center-Pin-_p_141.html. I wanted to replace the wires, but after getting it all in after a test fit, I said “screw it”. You’re right though, those wires are crap as well. I can’t believe they built this thing together so badly. For just a few cents more, they could have put together an awesome device.
