I’ve seen most vape shops have a solution since their alternative is replacement (warranty!).
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I’m happy you got it sorted out, good job 
Before I rebuild, I always clean my atty thoroughly, including screws and holes. It just takes a minute and I can only recommend it!
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Thanks @anon28032772, I don’t change coils very often and, at most, my attys get a rinse with clean water every now and then, but will start with the rinse before removing the coils now.
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I’m real anal about this. I run all of mine through the ultrasonic cleaner prior to rebuild. I loosen the grub screws a little so the usc will vibrate them out during cleaning, lol.
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You should check it case by case. I don’t wash my attys before removing a coil, unless they’ve been standing still for a couple months and there’s some dried up juice in god knows what places. Then it’s straight in a USC with hot water and soap for 30 mins. If it’s my regular atty, i just rinse it off in hot water after the coils have been removed. My RDA’s get rebuild every couple days so there’s nothing really that gets a chance to build up.
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Nope, coils stay in my RDA or RTA for a while. I think the coil I just removed was 2+ months old, used daily. The only reason I removed the old coil was because I just received some SS wire and went crazy making different wires and coils and wanted to try some out. The flavors with SS are much more pronounced compared to Kanthal.
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Yeah, I’m a bit OCD, but cleaning isn’t one of them. 
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Lol, I get that. I got the usc for vaping and well, it’s a toy. Gotta play with my toys. Hate to see them get lonely.
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next one that i fuck up, i’ll send to you
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I’ve found that the grub screws on the Steam Crave are “better” than others because the well for the tool is deeper and less prone to stripping since more of the tool is applying the pressure. The other manufacturers that use headless hex screws have tiny wells for the allen key tool and are more prone to strip.
If they could just make headless screws for a flat head screw driver, I think these issues would go away (this is my opinion, not a fact).
Thanks for the tip though. Will try this next time… and there will be a next time. 
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Deal !
You didn’t want it back though did you ? 
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How do I handle a stripped screw? Tuck a fiver in her thong? ok ok I use a Dremel, but you could use a file or sandpaper. When you grind down the end a burr will form that you might normally smooth off …don’t. The tiny bit of excess metal might give you a tighter fit. You can also tuck in a narrow sliver of aluminum foil …anything to fill the slack space.
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I just did the file trick yesterday on an rda and rdta that were down and it worked in seconds after struggling with a rubber band for a week. The excess metal got the screws out instantly
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When I worked with Jewellery we used to use a dremel style drill with a 1mm drill bit, slow and steady drilling dead centre will at some point grip the grub and “extract” it, make sure you go slow though so you minimise the chance of slipping to the sides and ruining the threads.
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You could also try left handed drill bits like this.
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Now this is awesome and reasonable. Definitely a must have thanks
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This would have helped a lot. Never even knew something like this was available.
If they sold 10 packs of the 1/16" bits - I’d be all over this.
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You could probably find them on amazon or eBay.
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Here! Get on it!
10pc Left Hand Drill Bit 1/16" inch Shank Industrial Quality Mechanics Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M71EXKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P6P1zbPSW7QMH
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Thanks Cutlass!
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