Thanks for the education on wire types. On the screw to wrap coils I use a 6/32 stainless steel screw. On the original problem we really need more info .
Innokin iSub Tank Replacement Coils are interchangeable with the iSub/iSub G tanks. The coil head’s housing is made from stainless steel. The iSub Tank replacement coils use Kanthal wire, are 0.5 ohm resistance, and are wicked with pure Japanese Organic Cotton for a much cleaner taste and a smoother vape experience!
I can’t imaging they are using kanthal any different than you are using. Folks are really on to cleaning whatever wire one uses before twisting up a coil. Is cleaning the wire part of your regiment prior to rebuilding your coils?
Thanks Josephine, but I picked this idea up off YouTube or something…it’s not my own idea. But it does work well and if you keep the screw in the coil as you mount to your RBA you can “unscrew” it from the wire and it will be nearly perfect.
Acknowledging someone else’s brilliant idea and use it is equally brilliant. Shit, I am trying to give you a compliment and give one to myself at the same time, now isn’t that brilliant
I am using a 50w innokin disrupter between 22 and 28 watts, the coil is steadily reading .65 ohms, I have a max vg blend at 3 mg nic, and I am vaping fruity and custard flavors, I need to mention here that it happens with the stock coils too, they only last one day and then make my throat hurt really bad when I hit it, then I change the coil and am good for another day
jondamon: where do you get your ss wire? I see alot of 317/316 artistic wire, but I don’t think its the same or is. Second, what do you clean your wire with .
I rarely change my coils if I have a problem. 9.9999 times out of 10 it’s the wicking for me.
I am surprised nobody has mentioned this yet. Because it sounds to me like this just started happening since building coils. So more than likely, it’s not the juice or the wire. Being max VG I would suspect the problem to be dry hits. Maybe you are getting the cotton too tight in the coil, or packing it too tight into the juice channels. What tank/dripper are you using? Can you share a pic of a coil after wicking?
Thanks JoJo. The vapor dna was out of stock, and then I freind told me that you can buy it at home inprovement store. I just wanted to vape safe. Will add it to my cart.
I’ve always used kenthol 22 an 26 gage wire. I see a lot of different ppl using SS or titanium wire. Kenthol has always worked good for me. Can anyone explain why you would want to use anything other then kenthol and why ?
Because i believe it’s all in how you make your coils and the big part. How you wick it. I guess im just confused on why any anything but kenthol wire
With Titanium wire you get more flavor, and the flavor you get is better. I was skeptical too. I used to build staggered-fused claptons out of Kanthal for all of my RTA’s and RDA’s. So I already was able to get really good flavor from all of my devices.
I built my first Titanium coil just the other day and now I am a believer. But it takes about a half tank before you really start noticing the flavor improving.
If you don’t have a temp control device I would probably stick to Kanthal until you get one. But it is definitely worth exploring. Even if you decide to stick to Kanthal your TC device will still work in power mode.
Don’t have a TC mod so I don’t use titanium. I do use 316L SS and prefer it over kanthal. The taste is much cleaner and after using SS and going back to kanthal you will taste the metal in the kanthal wire. I have a few spools that I haven’t touched with the exception of my 32 and 34g that I use as outer wiring for SS core Claptons.
EDIT: The coils are easier to clean with a simple burn and rinse. You don’t have to replace them as often as Kanthal when they get gunked up.