dual core clapton mainly. Couldn’t really tell you the wire specs though.
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First off, I need a new cell phone (after like 100s of floor hits, and the cam is really bad), but I’ve taken a few pics of how I did the best wicking for this tank. I found it easier to just do the prefered build, rather than going thru the other cotton variations. This is as you said, very subjective. What you find to be good flavour can differ by miles to the next person.
Most of you probably know how to wick etc, but this is how I find acceptable flavour vs clouds in the griffin 25 plus. (No experience with the other griffins).
Coils in the tank are 3mm id ni80 fused claptons ohming out at 0.24, so a bit higher than my normal 0.18-0.2, but theres not a huge difference.
Been testing it with muji cotton, cotton bacon v2 and cotton bacon prime. No huge differences with the cotton, but prime needed less of a fluffing and combing so it’s what I felt were the go-to here.
This is after a hot water cleaning, I took it further apart and dried it up.
The juice I’ve been chugging the last month, a 80/20 kreeds custard with caramel, sided with prefered tools.
This is how much cotton I use for a 3mm ID, and I roll it between my hands before I gently pull it from the sides till it splits in the middle.
I had to take a bit more off each piece as it were a bit much, just make sure you wick it like any other tank. Snug but not choking.
After pulling it thru I cut each wick at an angle, so that the fibres will hang “downwards”, and not overcrowds the juice holes. (The holes in the griffin 25 plus are actually larger than in the aromamizer v2 rdta).
If you can see light coming from the holes when looking at it from beneath, it should be wicked properly for no dry hits.
After priming, and filling it with juice, just pull out the deck again after like 10 puffs to see if you have alot of white spots in your cotton, this is usually the indicator for upcoming dry hits and it not wicking correctly.
Ok, this post got way to long, with to many bad pictures. But the biggest difference for me was that I had to go up in watts to get close to the same flavour I would have gotten at 50w from my regular rotation rtas. I found this coil setup to work very well at around 65 watts in the tank, without any dry hits.
Basicly its delivering good flavour, without any dry hits and thats what I found with every type of cotton tested.
Cheers 
(and no, not sponsored by any of the products in these pics, just my adventure into doing a crappy pic series of how I would wick an older gen tank )
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Thanks for the pics and explanation.
You seem to have a different build deck though. I have one of the (old?) ones with the retainer ring.
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That might explain alot, since I dont know anything about the older griffins. Theres usually a good reason for them to update a said product. I hated the two first ammits, so might be the same scenario with the griffins.
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I really wish they would reflect the updates in the name of the RTA because people are discussing about things that are totally different, makes for a lot of confusion 
Then again, I’ve heard people rave about the old build deck as well, I just don’t get that same performance from it.
I still need to rebuild mine and give it another try but for the moment I’m low on coils so I’ll keep it for another day.
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They just want us second guessing each other, its part of the whole conspiracy
No but yeah, it just does not make for a good marketing feature, at least for the guinnea(spelling?) pigs who bought the first iterations.
They really need to start doing better testing of their products before shipping them out. You would think they had competent people to test these betas. My 5 cent go towards it being less profitable with a longer development process.
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The bigger juice holes on your build deck explain to me why you have no issues with big coils and 80/20 juice.
It’s probably my wicking, but with 70/30 juice I either get leaks or I can’t chain vape this thing without getting dry hits. That’s why I asked you what kind of juice you used as well.
I think next time I’ll try wicking, I’m going to mix a 60/40 juice and see if that’ll bring any improvements.
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Suomynona, you have the original Griffin 25 - it doesn’t have the top airflow and has the wick ring.
Mausberg has the Griffin 25 + (the plus version) WITH the top cap airflow, no wick ring
I have 2 of the original Griffin 25 (they were on sale!) and it works well, but has muted flavor (compared to a RDA) but works well, can chain vape it and no dry hits.
I usually wick tight and thin the tails a bit before stuffing the wick channels, and then I take my needle nose tweezers and jam it into the edge of the wick channel to “make some space”.
I also take some of the excess (cut off) wick tail, ball it up and jam it into the space between the upper coil leg and the velocity post because sometimes (with the coil I use) that little itty bitty bit of coil leg will glow red and make every thing taste BURNT.
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I actually have both of the worst things, the original deck and the top airflow 
That top airflow is closed off at all times, it only serves to add air into your vape and mute flavor. What were they thinking?
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That ring on your deck, is that something you can screw on and off?
Just thinking out “loud”,
I would probably just make sure you have fluffed cotton going halfway down those channels, which should get the capillary action going without dry hits. The same principle goes for alot of tanks with the same (cake shaped) wick channels. The cake look of those wick slots are usually sensitive to cotton amount, and just from pictures its not easy to eyeball. By no means an expert wicker, but seeing as the afc hole is raised up, I think you should go for just more cotton than what you would do when getting leaks.
Actually tempted to get a version like yours now, lol, but gonna steer clear
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Yes, it is intended (I guess) that you unscrew it, put your wicks in and then screw it back on.
It is however a PITA to do it that way, so most people just leave it on and stuff the wick in there.
I’ve actually also seen a few people who leave off the ring completely, I have yet to try that.
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I still use the wick ring.
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Your leaking problem is from not letting the wicking soak and expand enough before you put it together. You have to make sure that the cotton has fully expanded and then make sure it’s not coming into contact with the air intake. Any contact at all and it will leak like a sieve. I would say that the dry hits are from using too much cotton and choking the juice intake. At least that’s been my experience with the older griffin decks.
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I felt I might be being unfair to the crius so I tried it again. It is not a bad tank at all and easy to coil wick. Flavour is pretty good as well.
I still prefer my serpent SMM though 
but it is not far
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rta -Troll - really good flavor , small tank though
which is ok , if i vape the same flavor for to long i lose the taste for it
it is very close to my all time fav the dead rabbit-RDA
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Not to confuse anybody or myself, I have the old/new griffin with ring and top airflow, has 4 wicking channels, I use 2.5 mm ID coils, sometimes 3mm ID coils, I fluff and let my cotton just sit on top of wick holes, just enough to sit there and stay. I just bought about 6 weeks ago, at local vape shop for 12$ and have good luck with it, very descent flavor. I just purchased Serpent SMM , really like this tank, its short, well made, Single coil, easy to build and wick, a good/descent flavor tank. I also just purchased Vandy Vape Kylin Mini single coil, the wicking you have to get just right, after you find the sweet spot for that and change drip tip to a small bore 810/TFV8, to me has got the best flavor for a single coil, and better flavor than most dual coil RTA’S. but I love all my RTA’S, each has it’s own personality and place.
Smok TFV12/TFV8/ RTV4
Steam Crave Aromamizer/Supreme Lite
Kylin 1.5
Reload
OBS Crius 11 dual coil
OBS Engine
Zues dual coil
Siren 2 mtl
Squape R
Rose v2
Hercules v2
Svemesto v4
all Kayfun’s
i’m forgetten something, but thats off the top of my head
So yeah, it’s RTA’s RTDA’S for me
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