I’ve been using the IPV4 for awhile now and love it. (I downloaded the upgrade so it’s now the same as the IPV4S). It’s a handful but can go days on the same batteries. I got the IPV D2 for out-and-about because it’s smaller and it works like a champ. I’m sold on TC because I just set the device at 400F and let it do the rest. Never had a dry hit and the cotton in a dripper stays nice and clean in TC mode. It’s a very reliable and consistent vape.
I’m intrigued by the Eleaf TCs, especially the new istick 60W TC for $29.99. I have the 50W and 30W vv/vw isticks and they are great devices. The IPV uses the YIHI chip which is tried & true and works flawlessly, but I know nothing about the chip in the Eleaf TC devices. Anything using only a single 18650
battery is going to have short battery life in TC mode. That is the only downside of my IPV D2.
My toys: istick30W, istick50W, D2, IPV4
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Price is certainly nice and I like the look of it. I don’t think it supports Ti wire though so it’s a no go for me. If that is true (No Ti) then I will be waiting for them to get off their @ss and support Ti wire. It is indeed intriguing and a step forward now that you can change out 18650 batteries. They’re getting there, slowly but surely…
I am a Toyota Technician and work in a non air conditioned shop in Phoenix Arizona. Being a mechanic means a pretty harsh environment. Also e-cigs work a lot differant at 40 degrees then they do at 125 degrees.
One of the service writers got a Snow Wolf about 5 months back. He has been using it with a dripper set-up on it and loves it. He is a big cloud chaser and say the wires are lasting a lot longer. Then his old set-up.
I took one hit off it and decided to order a TC mod the next day. I watched all the reviews and decided to get the Joyetech evic VT 60w with the ego one mega tank. I had read about some quality control issues, but I hoped for the best. I love it. I have dropped it hundreds of times. The tank is now bent at the 510 thread, the paint is gone on the bottom, and the clear coat is falling off it. But I grab this thing all day with chemicals on my hands that will eat paint and store it on my pocket constantly with other tools banging around.
I smoke about 4ml of juice a day. On my old MVP 1.0 and Aspire Nautulis Mini I would get about 1.5 weeks on a coil. With my current set- up I get about a month. One lasted almost two months 78,793 seconds according to the “coil on” timer.
In the weather my old set-up would get very leaky and gurgle in high temps 100+ and in cold temps 50- would not give me the best hits. The TC hits almost spot on in very temp.
My only complaint about it is the switch on top gets dirt under it (mine gets exposed to a lot of dirt) and starts to bind up. I expect it is going to break at some point.
After I got mine another guy in the shop ordered the same set-up as mine. Within the first week his was broken. It would always read “atomizer short” on the display. We figured a wire had come loose on the inside, but he didn’t want to take it apart becuase it was still under warranty. He email Joyetech many time with no response. Finally he ordered a Eleaf 40W TC so he had something to use and the place he ordered the Eleaf from is taking care of the Evic for him.
The Eleaf has been great with the ego one mega tank on it. The hit exactly the same, but the eleaf is lighter (my wife wants one of those now). The battery is not as big and if he forgets to charge it at night it will not last a second day were the evic will.
After he got his another guy ordered the Eleaf with the Kangertech subohm mini. Again things got even better. The flavors seemed so much better with the Kanger tank. We debated it for a week. Finally I made a bottle of Blue Voodoo clone and brought it to work. Everybody washed out there tanks, replaced the coils, and started fresh. The Kanger Tank had the best flavor for sure. We even swapped the tanks from the the evic to the eleaf and the flavor was still better with the Kanger tank on either battery (but the best flavor in the shop is still the Snow Wolf with the dripper).
We have found the coil life is only about 2 weeks on the kanger tank and about 4 weeks on the Joyetech tank on either battery.
My personal opinion is that the temp control is not all what its cracked up to be. I like the taste, but get a much stronger “hit” on wattage control, than on temp control. I own the Cube 2 and the IPV D2 and the Snow Wolf, and I have to be honest, I hardly EEVER use the temp control,AND have the Smok TCT Nickle coil tank!! Anyway, Thats just My personal opinion. That being said Vape on!! and STAY SAFE with it. If your not sure how to use it…ASK SOMEONE, or just dont use it!!! Have a GREAT day all!!
I can’t comment on the Snow Wolf. The xCube is hit or miss. And the IPV D2, heard good and bad.
What I will say is on the DNA 200 board mods, you can bet you bumper you’ll be able to hit as hard in temp control as with any VW mod out there. The beauty is, a slight mishap with the DNA won’t singe your alveoli.
EDIT - Let me correct myself. The DNA will hit as hard in TC as any other VW mod up to 600F. If you need more than 600 degrees you’re not really vaping, you’re pulling the emissions off a small fire
Let me go a step further. Below are two graphics from the DNA200 software Device Monitor. The first is with the DNA200 set to 600F and 150w. I don’t know if 150w will get it to 600, but I will say I can’t handle that heat. Of course I can set this up on one of my other, non-DNA200 mods to 600F and I know full well I’m not getting close. You have to put the power behind it to reach that temperature. But that’s beyond the temp where cotton burns anyway, so what’s the point? Anyway., the red line indicates temp and the lime green is power. Notice how the power peaked then sort of leveled off. If you can’t make it out that’s 479.39F. I couldn’t hold that. Is it really that temp? I don’t know, but it’s beyond what I feel most people would tolerate from a vape.
This one is my preferred setting with this tank/juice. 450F at 50w. You’ll notice the lime green line sharply drops indicating a major loss of wattage. That’s because I have pre-heat on at 100w for the first second. Obviously 450F also won’t be maintained by 50 watts. However, I believe at 100w it might, so the setting simply prevents the coil from exceeding that during the preheat. Since I’ve leveled off at 355F I think that’s probably my happy place. It’s very warm but not hot. Vapor for days. Again, is that the correct temp? My guess is yes, within a tolerance of a few degrees.
For your DNA200, set up is pretty simple. If you haven’t done so, download the Escribe Software. You can get it right from Wismec’s website http://www.wismec.com/product/reuleaux-dna200/ and click the Evolv download button. Also on that page you’ll notice another download button with Reuleaux in it. That’s a mod set up for the software. I looked at it but the mod was already packaged with all those settings. It’s NOT firmware, and as far as I know there isn’t firmware updates available for the Reuleaux.
Once installed, set up your wires. On the general screen you have 8 profiles available. I have Ti set for profile 1, stainless for 2. The rest are blank but you can set them for different tanks, whatever. The big thing here is if you set just the wire you can use any build you have for that wire, you’ll just need to set the temp/power each time. If you will be using the same set ups a lot you can make individual profiles. So if you have a Subtank with Ti for example and you like running it at 425F with 40w, you can set that up as a profile. Then say you have an Aromamizer with Ti running dual coils, but you want that at 450F and 70w, you can set that profile. That way you don’t fool with it, just put on the tank, select the profile and your off. Here’s how to set up profiles.
General tab
Give the profile a name so it’s recognizable at a glance
The mod is preset for Nickel. If you want to run Ti or SS you need to import the coefficients. You can create them on the Steam Engine website / Wire Wizard, or here, I have them for you if you like. Titanium and 316L Stainless.
Once you have your CSVs on your computer, you need to add them to the software.
To get them onto the device, with it plugged in to your PC via the USB, click here -
Remember, no changes you make on the software will change on your mod until you click that Upload. The exception is in some of the testing features such as device monitor.
Really that’s enough to get you going. Below is the theme I was working on. If you want some customization here’s that file. You just go to themes, load and upload to device.
I own two devices that are not on this list, but they are great, even though I haven’t used them on TC in awhile.
IPV D2 - Very accurate for me, never had a problem, very reliable. Also small, capable of 75w single battery.
SX Mini M class - Extremely accurate, is perfect for TC, pretty much made for TC. Up to 60w normal mode. Has cool features like “powerful/standard/soft” modes which start at higher/lower wattages/joules and come to your preferred.
Overall I choose the IPV D2, because it is small, light, and does everything every other mod does lol.
I follow 3 vape reviewers on youtube who review TC mods every week and show people how to use them for a living. 2 of those folks admit readily they have 10-15 TC mods sitting around them with the right coils and still vape 95% of the time in wattage mode. Both of those guys wont vape nickel. 2 of my mods are TC compatible but I am still waiting for right time to put myself through the learning curve. I also live in a northern climate where walking in and out of a building in the winter can mean a fast 60 degree temperature difference which I think would be very hard on a mod (in controlling temperature). I guess I would like to see some stock coils made for TC in SS and let more time pass.
No need to worry over this. Temperature is calculated using the change in coil resistance. Also, once it fire, the coil is quite isolated from the elements anyway. Your bigger concern would be juice viscosity, so in cooler environments you probably want to have thinner juice…say something 60/40 or 50/50 VG/PG. I tested the TC functionality of a few TC mods going in and out of doors where the outside temperature was in the 30s. No change in performance. And here in South Carolina that’s fine. But what about other places. Well I put my mod in a freezer bag and into the deep freeze for 15 minutes. Pulled it out quickly and vaped. No problems. But you’ll never know until you try
I have to admit I can relate to that… got a Panzer, messed around with TC, tried a few setups n stuff, but in the end all my TC mods are running in power mode I think it’s just me, but I can’t notice any difference when using TC or Titanium or SS, if - and that’s important - you compare it to an equivalent build with Kanthal. Dunno, maybe it’s just my taste buds being crafty gremlins.
I’m the exact opposite. I haven’t been able to run in TC for about a week. I can tell a difference running in VW mode. I doesn’t taste nearly as good. Some of my mixes have muted flavor notes that I usually taste.
Wow, wish I could have that, too. In fact, your enthusiasm was the only reason why I gave titanium a try anyways, haha. This is not the only anomaly I noticed, either - I can’t taste any blueberries in any mix, quite sad as I love blueberries! And I hate custard, can’t stand the taste - although I would never refuse a custard for eating! Lol
My taste buds go wonky every day at about 3:00 PM and I have to change flavor. Go figure. I think its my brain trying to get me to go the gas station for those evil other things.
That’s very good to know! I do want to try it but I want to use SS. Waiting for Aspire to get the SS out on the market soon for the two Cleito tanks I am running right now…and then I will try it!
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I think it’s just me, but I can’t notice any difference when using TC or Titanium or SS, if - and that’s important - you compare it to an equivalent build with Kanthal. Dunno, maybe it’s just my taste buds being crafty gremlins. 