I use max vg blends in my Nautilus reg and mini using the standard 1.8 ohm coil most of my mixes boarder on an 15/85 mix but many are much lower and I don’t have a problem at all with wicking ! That goes for the Triton as well but with the clapton 1.8 ohm coil.
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Hi i am new user here and i observed you set a temp and the chip does the rest. It’s working rather well in
my experience, haven’t tried the xCube mentioned above to compare though. It does give me a very consistant vape at a set level. And it’s 220W max -personally I doubt that number though, as you only have two 18650s, so maybe more like around 150W, but that’s still more than enough for me.
Hello @AdlerClerk and welcome to ELR! If you haven’t done so already please stop by the thread Be polite and introduce yourself thread and say hello. I believe you will enjoy your time on the ELR forum.
You’re right. Two 18650 can’t produce that many watts. I’ve read it’s 133 max. But to date I have never needed that much in temperature control. I think the max I’ve had mine set was 128 but I don’t believe the mod used all of it.
Don’t hesitate to ask questions when you have them and I look forward to learning from you as well!
Just an update to this topic. I wanted to share one of the fantastic side effects of using temperature control over time.
I’m sure many people here have thought, or heard someone say that they don’t like TC. I’ve heard it over and over. I think what you learn from using TC (and perfecting it) reveals the reason why many folks will think that.
So, what is this magic thing I’ve learned? It’s simply that TC will make you a much better coil builder. It reveals all the little inadequacies of your build and wick. Build your coils wrong - TC doesn’t work right. Wick too tight or too loose, TC prevents a good vape. It’s really amazing how learning the proper build (I’ll call it advanced building) is the result over time.
The reason I’m thinking of this now is because of my recent experience with Native Wicks. For me there was a learning curve with this wicking material. I think I naturally used too much based on my experience with Cotton Bacon. So I had to learn to use less than I was, and found there is a fine line between too much and not enough.
Point is, you learn what makes for the “perfect” build and wick. Anyone who is at this stage and use TC almost exclusively can verify this for themselves. As long as you’re not using Nickel, take your atty you’re getting a great vape from and put it into power mode. You’ll find an awesome vape that way too. And the other thing is you will find these perfected builds will result in far fewer dry hits compared to before you were forced to learn advanced building.
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WOW you are 100% correct my friend. Never thought of it this way until reading this post. Good share and very, very true.
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So, basicly gravedigging this thread back into the light of day again.
I’ve been fiddling around with SS316L wire and TC, and can’t seem to get satisfied with the results im getting. (Wire from geekvape / ud).
I have a lost vape triade, and have been adding wire through escribe. But it feels like I have to go to 210C and up to get what I would equal to a 50w vape at 0.2ohm with ni80 in regular wattage mode.
My whole experience with TC so far, have been a meh… and I’m sure I’m the one doing it wrong. Yes, I do space my coils, yes I do use wire wizard for the correct coef. and yes I’ve updated my mod.
Should I change wire? Could I get better results with ni200 or even ti?
Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask these questions. I feel competent enough to skimm through, possibly I’ve given up too quickly 
Anyways, thanks for any feedback.
Can I ask what size/type wire you’re used to with a vape that does satisfy?
Here’s a pic that illustrates that TC (Temperature Control) is not the correct name for what we do, it really is TP (Temperature Protection).
The first puff you see on this graph, I set the power to 95W (green line) and the temperature (red line) to 270C (about 520F).
Even though the temp is set at 270C, it doesn’t even reach that temperature. So whether I’d vape in regular power mode or in TC setting, I won’t notice any difference between TC or PM.
The second puff I take, I reduced the temp to 240C (about 465F) while keeping the same power level. This time I reach the temp limit I set and you’ll see that the power level is reduced to keep giving me a maximum of 240C.
These puffs are done on a wet wick. If you wick gets dry, you’ll see the temp protection kick in much faster and the power fluctuations (and as a result the temp as well) get more erratic.
Time to drip again
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I’ve been using a 28ga x 3 with a 36ga clapton (ni80) at 6 wraps (3mm id). Two coils at those speccs give me around 0.2ohm. Thats my go-to setup. But I do use anything from regular round wire, spaced, non-spaced, single and dual coil setups.
What I meant with my post, is that I dont think im getting the correct vapour production out of my setup when I try to follow the correct steps with ss316L, and to achieve anthing close to a regular vapour production, it needs to go very high in temperature. I probably need to fiddle some more with it.
When doing my spaced ss316l’s i usually do 6 - 9 wraps, 3mm id.
Thanks for the pics and explanations, I think I’m understanding this more now. And probably dont have to worry too much about temperature as I’ve been doing.
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Pics usually help people understand it a bit better and since I didn’t see any like this in this thread, I thought it’d be worth posting some. These are done with a DNA device and the Escribe monitoring software.
There are big differences between different mods / manufacturers though. I’ve got other mods that can be set to 315C/600F and I’m only getting a medium warm vape from them (so not working well). I know there are other manufacturers that do TC well but I won’t recommend anything but DNA if you’re looking for good temperature protection.
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Ok, I wasn’t expecting to hear the mixture of SS and Nichrome. I’ve never tried using these materials together in a TC application, but I can only guess it wouldn’t work well.
So what are you building now for TC builds? Do you have any 24ga SS? I like how simple 24ga vapes when building a dual coil setup, 3.5mm ID and 7.5 wraps, spaced. Seems like about the simplest setup that provides maximum umph.
I refuse to recommend Nickel, but yes, you can get some excellent results with Ti. I’ve been buying this and it’s been fantastic. Very clean - I wipe it down with a paper towel moistened with alcohol and get practically zero residue from it. Due to the steeper TCR curve, TC performance with Ti is superior to that of SS which is relatively flat in comparison. Plus it’s a very clean taste. If your mod has the nuts to push it, then a similar build as I mentioned before is perfect.
Now that’s 22ga Titanium. To be honest, for my vaping style I only will use 22ga Ti or 24ga SS.
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I think I misunderstood you, and vice versa. What i usually vape on is ni80(28x3/36) at 6 wraps id 3mm, no wire mixing. Two of those coils run me a flat 0.2ohm which I push 50w through and get a dense flavourful vape.
What I try to make work with tc is simple 24ga ss316l. I will order some ti and give it a go. Think I need to push my settings some in escribe.
Sorry bout the confusion, but as Suomynona illustrated, I’ve realized I need to push the heat up and stop pansying about with my dna mods.
I’ve had dnas for a while, without utilizing their full potential… Yeah I know, bad rhino 
We all find our happy place on our own I think. Just an FYI…
My 24ga SS builds (dual coils) ohm out at around 0.21. With those I generally vape at 520F (271C) and watts set to around 140. I’m sure you know this, but if not, on a DNA when you set wattage that isn’t saying you’re vaping at the set watts. In effect that is a limit of how many watts are available for the board to meet the set temp. So you can easily set a temperature but not set watts high enough to ever meet them.
Other things to look out for -
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Setting mod/atty at room temp. Without the atty attached, press the fire button. Then screw down the atty and press fire again.
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Wicking. If improperly wicked (most applicable with tanks) then the juice may not be able to flow which will allow the coils to exceed set temp rapidly, triggering the mod to cut power to the coils. A dry coil on any atty will result in little to no vapor, but that’s just the mod doing its job.
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Make sure coils are secured really well. If there aren’t solid connections then TC functionality will suffer. This also applies to 510s and any other point on the mod where there is an adjustable connection.
FYI - I love how my DNA squonk mod works in TC. Lovely vape for sure!
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Thank you so much, this explains alot as well. I will twist up a couple of new coils for my BF Drone setup. Start clean and start upping that wattage.
Do you by any chance lock the ohm?
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I don’t. Never found a reason to do so.
Let me know how it goes. I switch between a Goon, Lost Vape Delirium V2 and Icon on the Drone. Each vapes beautifully in TC mode.
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I’ve actually been more impressed with the TC functionality of the GBOX than I thought I would. I don’t like the preset SS304 in TC-SS (I thought most people used SS316L which is 092) but it does have manual TCR so it isn’t a real issue. It works quite well.
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I wanted to like it, but with 80 watts limit I can’t seem to drive those big mamma jamma coils I like so much.
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Did a 9 wrap of some 26ga ss316l, put it in my tm24 on top of the bf drone. Bumped the wattage and heat up and now I get a really dense flavourful vape from it
Not the too cold, almost no vape at all that I were getting before.
Been giving up to fast and switching back to watt.
Thanks alot for all the help 
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