Ok tried this and instant burnt cotton taste but it did not flash dry coil so I backed the temp down to 300 and Jules still at 40 no bunt cotton but back to flashing dry coil.
I did lock the resistance at room temp and I have not reset the resistance lock and in the menu it is set for ti mode.
I will try the 5 wrap in the AM getting to late tonight but on the Velocity I only use single coils with the air flow restricted. Actually I have modified it by filling in half of the air holes making it a permanent single coil rig.
Ken I think there have been some really great strides in the RTA realm. I don’t buy stock coils for anything… I look at it as paying rent on my tank. That said, there’s the TFV4 which I own. Solid as a tank (pun ), the Crown by Uwell, lots of newcomers. My favorite though which I say has only slightly less flavor production than the Goblin Mini is the new Aromamizer RDTA. OMG - it holds 6ml, tastes virtually identical to a dripper and has the most wonderful Velocity style 2 post deck. While I know that I rave about the goblin…if I could be given another tank right now of my choosing it would be another Aromamizer. Hands down. If you like small there is also the Advken Ohmega. It’s a great tank, I just think I got a crap one from first production. I will get another.
Oh yeah, one other thing about the Goblin. Be careful with the deck screws. This one likes to snap smaller gauge wire.
Oh yeah. You can build the thing to handle whatever a dripper will do. It basically is a dripper inside a tank. Now this set up is in Temperature Control with dual 22ga Titanium. But if you were to put a build that can handle the power this mod will do 200 watts. I don’t go for all that though.
You using the same build, tank and mod as several before you. In most cases dry hit problems is wicking. Can you post a pic of how it’s wicked. If the juice channels are clogged you will get dry hits.
[quote=“wvsanta, post:35, topic:27076”]
Ok tried this and instant burnt cotton taste but it did not flash dry coil so I backed the temp down to 300 and Jules still at 40 no bunt cotton but back to flashing dry coil.[/quote]
I doubt you’re having Mod problems. Another thing I forgot, make sure you check that your connections are tight. After use they may need to be retightened then reset resistance at room temp.
Try the opposite, 20-30 Joules, 400 degrees. You must have that temperature higher to stop the Dry Coil Flashing.
Honestly, it sounds like a too hot, dry coil. I suggest you use 3mm ID so you can get more juice in the center wraps of that coil and cool it down. You should easily be able to do 40 joules and 495 degree. That is exactly my settings on the IPV4s with Crown RTA single coil at 2.1 ohms, 3mm ID, 24g, 5 or 6 wrap (can’t remember which). Your problem should be too much power for the amount of juice flow…
Ok so I took the mod outside 36degrees and left it did a 5 or 6 wrap depending on which side you count and set it in my modified for single coil Velocity wicked it up after the mod set for a bit inside locked the resistance in at.0.28 set to 40 Jules at 400F and finally no flashing dry coil but a cold vape even for me and I like a cooler vape so we are heading in the right direction.
I tried to take a picture but I can’t get a good one in the house I will try to get a good picture outside in daylight tomorrow before I do anything else to the build in the Lemo tanks.
Ok set to 430 degrees 40J at.28ohms and the Velocity with a single coil 26g Ti 5 wrap 3mm id spaced coil and it is now working like it should no flashing dry coil until it is truly out of juice. so the dripper for flavor testing is now working.
Edit: I should add same material and same method of wicking just 3 less wraps and setting the temperature higher solved the problem at least for the dripper. Trust me I tried everything I could think of including 3 different types of cotton and temp set from 300 all the way to 500 and power set from 10J to 100J but with the 8 wrap coil no dice now with the 5 wrap coil there have not been any issues like before.
You’ll get it, Just a matter of time. I like 24g wire and I believe @Pro_Vapes likes to use 22g. In the future maybe you should consider thicker wire so you can use less wraps and get more juice in the coil…Glad you’re making progress, keep at it…
For some reason I always think it’s a wicking problem. If I can this to wick no dry hits then yours shouldn’t be a problem. This doesn’t have huge juice channels either…
I am totally confused by this and the only reason I went with the 26 gauge wire was the fact in the Lemo tanks it is the largest wire that will trap under the screw without using the funky side holes to build on. I guess until I get different tanks I will have to try bigger wire and use the funky side holes or maybe going from 8 wraps to 5 wraps is the answer for now with the Lemo as well, it solved the issue with the dripper.
Thanks @ringling@SthrnMixer@Pro_Vapes for all the help tonight I was getting very frustrated with this issue.
This site and all the folks here are great just in case I have never said that before.
Update— 430F 50J .28ohm and vaping just like one of my Lemos with the same juice but a Kanthal 0.8 ohm build. Very happy with how this has turned out as far as the dripper I use for taste testing goes I will post again when I get the Lemo tank redone tomorrow.
I now have 2 of the Lemo tanks working with the 26g Ti wire. After receiving the Evic VTC Mini yesterday I did a 5 wrap 3mm ID spaced coil at 0.281 ohms on one of the Lemo’s and it has worked fairly well right from the start. I am now adjusted to 30 watts and 480F to 500F and I am getting a very smooth and satisfying vape using Jimk’s Fidels Private Stock juice. I am still on the fence about the flavor with this setup but I have not used much juice yet so I will wait until I have got thru the first full tank to judge the flavor as I understand there is a break in period on a new Ti coil. At the moment I am comparing flavor to a 0.8 ohm kanthal build in a Lemo tank using my sigelei 150 set to 16W. So far the Kanthal build has the flavor battle won on this flavor but we will see.
Now for the first run IPV4. Man have I really had a difficult time getting a Ti wire build to work on this one. I am currently using this with the same 5 wrap build but it reads .276 ohms and I am currently set to 20J and 500F and I am also using another Lemo tank with a 0.8 ohm Kanthal build on the sigelei 150 for the flavor comparison. I am using ENYAWREKLAW’s Bronuts flavor in these two tanks. I am a little past half a tank used on the Ti build with this flavor and I have just started getting better flavor on the TI build compared to the Kanthal build. Is it OFF THE CHARTS better flavor NO but it is better so we will see after a full tank how this goes.
Now with the IPV4 (again this is one of the first run IPV4 with the upgrade done for Ti wire) not the IPV4s. I am still having issues with a very uneven vape if I set it to anything above 20J no matter what the temperature is set to. What I am talking about is I can feel the mod rapidly adjusting the power applied to the coil while I am vaping it. As I mentioned above I currently have it set to 20J and 500F and it is a very smooth even vape, however it is still not as good as the setup on the Evic VTC Mini is as far as the quality of the vape experience.
I will swap the tanks with Ti builds between the 2 different mods next and see if there is a change but at this point I am fairly confident that the issues I am having now have more to do with the different mods and not the builds I am doing. I could be wrong so I will update this later this evening with how the swapping of the tanks works out.
Thanks again to all that jumped in to help out with the issues I have been having with getting Ti wire to work.
These are single coil tanks and I’ve always had trouble getting flavor from this tank. I recently traded it for a dual coil tank.
You should crank that above 45w.
You are not running enough power still. If you want Ti to work you need to stick the power to it.
What wire brand did you say you are using. There has been some suspect wire being used and once that problem was corrected these problems went away. All Ti wire is not created equally. If you have a proper Ti wire you will know it.
I scrolled up and found your wire source. I can’t speak against LV wire because I haven’t bought Ti wire from them. They are advertising the same spec wire that I use, but I get zero problems. I have the same tanks, mods and wire specs as you but I’ve no problem besides the Lemo 2 being a single coil tank that not a flavor producer IMO. I had no problems adjusting my Ti up and down watts, joules or temp using the upgraded IPV4.
I wish I had a answer for you. I would suggest you try the Ti wire source I and some others use. I would also suggest you try a different cleaning method or try cleaning your wire better. It will affect the taste if your wire isn’t clean. You should be able to wipe your wire with a white cloth or towel and get no residue.
Lightning Vape Ti Wire…
FOR TEMP CONTROL DEVICES ONLY, DO NOT DRY BURN / DRY FIRE
Surgical Grade 1 Titanium Wire
99.5%+ Pure Titanum
Resistance is roughly 2x that of Nichrome 80
Available in 22 AWG, 24 AWG & 26 AWG
Bulk packs of 10x10’ & 10x25’ rolls available HERE.
2 Original Lemo tanks working just fine on the Evic VTC mini.
The Black Lemo tank
ohm reader 0.276
IPV4 0.473
VTC .28
The Stainless Steel Lemo Tank
ohm reader 0.281
IPV4 0,280
VTC mini 0.28
Both tanks are working flawlessly on the VTC mini no matter where I set the watts and by just adjusting the temperature I can change the warmth and flavor with no issues at all. Currently set to 30 watts and 540F with the black tank and with the ss tanks and different juice I am using it at 30 watts and 520F and loving both.
The 30 watts thing is only because the first burst of power if I go above 30 watts and it is very hot at first but clams down almost instantly to what I like and no matter how long a draw I take it delivers a very pleasant vape. If I keep it at 30 to maybe 35 watts it is very pleasant from the instant I fire thru the entire draw.
I will have to say the flavor is without a doubt getting better than the same flavors on the kanthal builds on both tanks now that I am past half a tank.
That said, the IPV4 is still problematic with both tanks but does work OK as long as I do not exceed 20J. With the stainless steel tank I can get a very smooth vape with the temp set at around 420F but the flavor is just not there like it is with the VTC mini. The black tank is just not working at all on the IPV4. I can vape it at 20J and it is smooth but if I go above that even 5J you can feel the power fluctuating wildly as you draw on it. I have tried this both by locking in the resistance of this tank before vaping and by locking in the resistance of the other tank then using this tank. The later method works but as I said not much flavor.
My conclusion with this is for whatever reason while trying to use Ti wire with my IPV4 there seems to be some sort of connection issue at the 510. So the IPV4 will go back to being used as a VW mod (works great for that with all my tanks) and because I have been able to swap both tanks with Ti builds on the VTC mini without waiting for them to come to room temp I will just carry the one TC mod and 2 tanks for it. I should add that the VTC mini does ask if it is same tank or new tank but as long as I choose same tank the colder tank works just fine. If both tanks and the mod are room temperature when I screw either tank on cold the mod reads them both as 0.28. I am also using it without locking the resistance in which seems to keep the temperature of the vape more accurate.
EDIT: I should have added about cleaning the wire. I used a paper towel and alcohol but I have never seen any coloration on the paper towel at all and no change in color of the wire either so this wire seems to be very clean.
I have to say that Ti wire is now the wire of choice for me.
Late yesterday now armed with the knowledge I gained from this nightmare, I put a new build in one of my Lemo tanks that I could never get to function in TC mode while still using Nickle wire on my IPV4. The resistance would be all out of whack every time I tried a TC build with this particular tank. I started a thread here asking what tanks people recommended for TC because I was having connection issues with 4 of the 6 Lemo tanks I have. Turns out I guess it was not the tanks at all but the mod getting a funky connection at the 510 but only on certain tanks and only with TC builds.
So last night I did a 7 wrap 26g 3mm ID spaced coil and slapped it in this tank I could never get to work for TC mode. On the ohm reader .382 and on the VTC Mini I just got Saturday .38. Now less than 1/4 tank in I got to say this thing is the best vape I have ever experienced.
This morning I did the same build on yet another Lemo tank I have not been able to get to work on the IPV4 with nickel and that’s right it is working flawlessly in TC mode with Ti on the VTC Mini.
Now for the settings on the device I am set at 50w and running between 420f to 510f depending on the juice I am vaping in the different tanks and loving the vape quality and flavor quality on all of them.
Flavor after 1/4 tank of juice is noticeably better than any Kanthal or Nickel build I have ever done.
The IPV4 went home with my son last night because he is only a part time vaper (cloud chasing only) and he has no intention of using TC mode ever.
Consider me a Titanium wire user from now on.
Thanks all for going along for the ride with this and all the help all of you gave me.
), the Crown by Uwell, lots of newcomers. My favorite though which I say has only slightly less flavor production than the Goblin Mini is the new Aromamizer RDTA. OMG - it holds 6ml, tastes virtually identical to a dripper and has the most wonderful Velocity style 2 post deck. While I know that I rave about the goblin…if I could be given another tank right now of my choosing it would be another Aromamizer. Hands down. If you like small there is also the Advken Ohmega. It’s a great tank, I just think I got a crap one from first production. I will get another.
