Spitting Fireballs thread offshoot

Continuing the discussion from Session Drummer's GeekVape GBox Squonk Kit Rewivew:

Trying to use that sporty “split topic” feature. I’d have replied in his review thread but understand this is cleaner.

Popping and spitting is usually not the result of the atty design itself. Often it can be attributed to insufficient cotton, overheating during the draw, or even moisture that can creep into juice through plastic bottles over time. I’m certain there are good threads here mentioning this topic.

OK, so I split a thread to avoid an off-topic drift. Correctly?

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Arose from this comment:

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Well I had some other problems with them like stripping the screws, and the difficulty in setting them up. I also didn’t like having to carry a bottle of juice around just to vape, let alone trying to stay out of the ditches while driving.

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Dripping the juice is actually why I left RDA’s back in the day. I had a 1,000 mile drive looming and didn’t want to have to deal with it. Back then, squonking was either not invented or not very available, I don’t remember which. I think it was not marketed yet.

Anyway, I’d been hesitant to return to them for the same convenience issues. But this GBOX has let me return, and very happily.

As for the Radar, so far I have found it to be a really great little performer. Popping and spitting hasn’t been an issue, even from build one. So for that part of your question, the Radar would probably help. It’s a snap to build on. Can’t help with the stripping of screws, other than to say I’ve had to learn to be very careful. Grub screws aren’t usually the best of quality from what I’ve seen with DIY decks.

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The Allen keys are also terrible. If you think your grubs are stripped check the key first.

I suppose I’ve gone off topic please forgive me :slight_smile:

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So clean. Thanks for the reminder!

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SO much truth!!

I’d also contend, that if folks used a decent Allen key to start with (with respect to the “atty life cycle”), they’ll find that in many cases, the screws last substantially longer. (It at least gives you a fighting chance at longevity!)

Then you only have to worry about the quality of threads on the base metal. lol

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^^^
Always use the right tools. I’ve been (ab)using my Tsunami a lot with the tiny little grub screws. Haven’t had a single one fail on me yet and I change coils every couple days when I change my cotton.
I never use those Chinese allen keys that come with an RDA though, they’re never a good fit and they will ruin those tiny little screws if you put a bit of force on them.

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Such timely info, as I just got my first RDA today (I know - don’t ask) and stripped a grub screw making sure the connection was solid. And, let me tell you, I am delicate with all of belongings. That cheap, weak metal.

What size hex key do I need to buy? It’s a Freakshow mini.

FYI @jazzy_girl

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It’s a 3…

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Thanks, bud! I just found it and the precision screwdriver set in all my bicycle gear/tools. (Another money sinkhole)

But, no purchase necessary today – w00t!

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Absolutely! Never use the trash they include. A good set of keys or screw drivers are pretty damn inexpensive.

I might be the only one but I’d love to see an RDA that uses Torx screws.

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LOL, didn’t even realize this thread was split off. Yes, spitting is most often caused by under-cottoning (wicking). I’ve still had mixed results from a few setups, and even coil types. For me, simpler seems to work better. As mentioned above, the allen keys they toss into most kits are complete junk. Steam Craves were no different, so I ended up buying a nice one, and haven’t lost a grubbie since.

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