I’ll try to get this all answered.
I ordered 34 and 36g. Looking to make single core claptons using anywhere fom 24-28g. I’m looking at ohms ranging 0.16-0.32.
In regards to the company you mentioned…I originally bought 36 and 38g 316l from a company called K.bee vapors, but the wire proved to be very springy and the wrapping wire moved quite a bit after I finished, so I didn’t even vape it…I just took it as a loss. I get the Kidneypuncher.Com newsletter every week and when they talked about new 316l wire, I looked into it and that’s how I ended up buying some. I have a vast assortment of tanks and mods, but my current lineup consists of:
TANKS :
Mutank, aromamizer v1, cleito w/new RBA, mutation x mt-rta, Erebrus Kaos, limitless rta.
MODS:
Fuchai, Koopor plus, rx200, Istick 200, and various DNA200s.
I vape at anywhere fom 98-125W. I like my vapor rich, dense, thick, warm and very full of flavor.
SS gets this done the best for what I want/need.
And I can dry fire it to clean it.
I think that covered your questions, .so I’m off o bed.
If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask.
I guess I should add:
For claptons and fused claptons on the GM and KM.at 0.8 ohms you’re gonna wanna use some higher gauge core wire, like 26-28g. I’m sure you have found out already that SS wire has a lower resistance and requires more wraps to get the same results .
EDIT: I cleaned my paragraph up a bit…it was late when I typed that, lol…
I went to SS Clapton Coils and got hooked. It just seems like the vapor is cleaner, tastier, and thicker. SS coils last much longer than other coils as well and can use them in TC or Watt mode. Also they seem to be the safest choice so with all that is good about them, I don’t see myself using much anything else.
Sorry that the picture quality isn’t better. I haven’t yet figured out much on the camera options on this new Mac.
With regards to the higher gauge SS for higher ohms, you are correct, which is why I was so excited to see your earlier post that mentioned Kidneypunch…I have been using UD stainless in 26 and 28 but could not find it in higher gauges…Very happy to see the assortment at Kidneypunch…
It was quite a challenge to get even a .4 ohm with the 28 gauge twisted on my Goblin Mini, given the small build deck…and would prolly be impossible to get that with a Clapton…The higher gauges at Kidneypunch open a whole new world of options…Thanks
Having The Aromamizer V1 and V2, along with the LemoDrop, and a Boreas, in addition to my minis, will allow for the larger size wires, given their larger build decks, for sure…
Mods include an E-Leaf Istick 30 watt, and the Joyetech evict VTC mini which goes to 75 watts…so I will be nowhere near the power that you are driving…I am running a bit conservative, and also have safety concerns, as I am not familiar with these more complex wires/builds/power things…and greatly appreciate the input from you all here…
@Chrispdx I see that some use it for vaping and you can get it at Amazon, and Michaels crafts, but not sure about its’ ingredients or safety…
Speaking of safety…can anyone here tell me what the safety concerns are as far as Mods blowing up etc…Does it have to do with coil ohms being too low, or too much power, or bad batteries, ? What causes a Mod to explode, and what are the main points to be knowledgeable about in order to prevent that from happening?
Definitely safe for vaping. Comes in 20, 22, 24 and 26 gauge. Can be bought at your local Michaels store. Good clean wire at a great price…especially when you use their weekly coupons.
I have built all the way down to 0.06…of course, at that resistance, I am using mods that can handle it. I think mods “blowing up” is a little dramatic, and I think if there was to be a culprit, bad batteries would be it. Stick with the known good batteries: Sony, Samsung and LG. Some new battery brands that are up and coming: Hohmtech and Pegasus, but I’m not sure if they are rewraps. When using dual 18650 mods, always use paired and married batteries. If you don’t know what that means, then you need to do more research.
I got LH HG2 20Amp…was just doing some reading and I am guessing that the biggest cause is using a coil with a resistance that is too low and draws more amps than the rating of the battery?..my mods are single battery units…
I have noticed when looking at most of the reported in the media cases, that the majority of these have to do with improper use of mechanical mods or people putting batteries in there pocket without a battery case to protect them.
So my opinion is 90% or more of the cases are user error not defective equipment.
There are a few cases I have looked at that were something to do with defective equipment. Those were mostly permanently mounted internal batteries venting during charging. More than likely a defect in the device causing the internal battery to over charge or a defective battery.
Defective items do happen in everything that is mass produced.
If your personal builds are around 0.8 ohms, you have nothing to worry about…read what Santa just shared…batteries in the pocket, loose, no case, jingling around with some spare change, will kill your batteries…and in extreme cases, will cause a reaction. An undesirable reaction. And, of course, what he mentioned as far as mech mods…
My K.bee SS wire, 34 and 36g, which has some spring to it, which made my attempt at claptons too springy, will be twisted at a later date and used for coils. I’ve never twisted 34 or 36 before. Gonna hafta play around with it and see how many I need to use for my kind of builds.
I deal with Lithium batteries daily. One of the more common causes for a thermal event is people continuing to use and charge a battery that has reached it’s end of life. Most Lithium batteries are good for 500-1000 charge cycles. The chemistry of the battery changes over time and is no longer able to handle the charging process and the heat generated. Make sure to retire old batteries when you notice having to charge much more frequently and the runtime being extremely short.
Very good point and glad you brought that up. I have also used lithium batteries for many years now ( long before vaping ) and the run time is how I judge when to replace mine.
I just find 2 x 0.4mm (26g) 317l twisted is just right for dripping. As long as you drag hard enough it won’t spit at you. It seems to soak up more juice than fused Claptons.
Any thoughts on using NiChrome 36ga to wrap stainless steel cores? I bought some Ti wire that was made for jewelry and initially it didn’t fit the bill for coilmaking. I agree with @Whiterose0818 that buying annealed wire made for vape coil is the way to go, but maybe you could just torch that springier wire?
I wouldn’t trust it personally. It may be good, but I’ve also heard Beadalon often uses alloys and platings in their wires. I know it says 316L, but what else is on/in the wire is anybodies guess. So many other well reviewed places to buy known good wire through. Why take the risk?
Is your concern with the gauges or wrapping SS on SS? I wouldn’t think either would be an issue. I picked up some 26x2/30 gauge and some 28x2/30 gauge 316L SS fused Claptons I’m getting ready to try in my TF-RDTA. Just make sure to pulse and dry burn the coils first and check them on an ohm reader or mod that reads ohms reliably before using. I would think the preference would be a thinner wire for the wrap though so the current hits the core wire and then heats up the wrap. Using identical wires everything likely heats up together.
