Probably p2, Slot P3 were short lived and not that great. I think there was even a short time of AMD slotted CPUs ( so few that I never saw one, socket 7 was significantly cheaper to manufacture)
Integrated memory controllers killed the format, might come back with if different memory hierarchies reappear (HMC/HBM on module + DIMM/serial ram for bulk RAM/NVRAM). Maybe in a few years, but I am not holding my breath. Would be nice, some intel laptop CPUs did something like that and had excellent performance/power characteristics.
@Dan_the_Man, sorry for crashing your thread
It is the pub, so I am not feeling too bad
Is it possible Intel and AMD shared sockets/chipsets for a while? I remember now I had an adaptor to use a socket CPU on a slot mainboard. I went this way because there was a cheap and rather performant combination of CPU and board but it required using this adaptor.
Man that must have been somewhere between 1998 and 2002?
Would have started to be a bad idea in 1996 or so, to be honest.
AMD and Cyrix had compatible chips. Often better but with quirks that made them subtly different to intel. The existence thereof a necessary thing for intel as DOD demands (at least used to) multiple sourcing for parts.
I clearly remember the socket on socket booster thingy, think it was for 486, a terrible idea technically, a probably brilliant idea if you have to skirt on licensing issues.
My first PC was a P1 133 or 166 in 1997 which wasnāt the latest tech at the time. Before that it was all C64 and Amiga. So it must have been after that but hey, today Iām using a 3rd generation i5 and itās doing all i want within an acceptable time, no more overclocking for me!
Overclocking is done by the CPU itself, which has specialised hardware for it. Turboboost like things. Essentially runs as fast as possible, as little of the CPU as possible while staying in a power/thermal budget!
Optimisation thereof probably responsible for much of the difference between zen+ and zen2 performance!
We got seriously pissed off when a generation of CPUs came out with fixed multipliers. You could only accelerate them by fiddling with the bus speed which was very limited of course.
@Lostmarbles good one mate.
Okay yāall I have another question below is a photo of where Iām thinking about putting my computer. So the one on the left Iām just going to be completely out and Iām thinking about removing that center divider and knocking out the back wall thereās two fans on the front one in the back one on the PCU one on the power supply and two on the graphics card do you think I should not put it there or do you think itās okay!
You can see how much dust blows through the house, itās the dustiest place Iāve ever stayed
You forgot the picture but generally, you want as much airflow as possible so you donāt want to fully enclose it. If you have a way to get air to it from behind (knocking out a panel) it should be ok. If you have a push/pull fan system it should keep it cool. Most computers have a diagnostic app that you can use to monitor stuff like heat, cpu load etc. If not you can download one for free and keep your eye on it.
Interesting. I thought that the licenses pertain to the system(s) on which the MS OS is installed on (Retail: multiple systems, and OEM: one system) - as opposed to the installation files themselves ?
If you have purchased a retail copy of Windows, then youāre allowed to transfer the product key to another computer With OEM itās probably only for the original machine ā¦
That was my point. I donāt think that Microsoft is selling Retail Win7/8. Counterfeits abound. The product keys that are provided (to multiple buyers by āpiratesā) get blacklisted by MS servers relatively quickly.
This is what I recently discovered regarding my $145 USD āRetail WinXP SP3ā purchased in 2014.
OEM licenses (associated with particular system-boards) are no help to one building their own system. Are there system-boards (only) presently on the market that are offered with OEM Win7/8 licenses ?
Some information relating to Windows 10 activation (incl. when upgrading from verified Windows 7/8):
I donāt think youāll have an overheat issue at all with that setup however, dust acts like a blanket so you have to do your best to keep it free of the buildup. The dust will be you biggest problem. Stock up on some compressed air, open it up every once in awhile and blow it out to keep it clean.
I havenāt read the other responses yet @Dan_the_Man, but totally agreed, take out the center partition, knock out the back, let the air flow. As far as dust/dust bunnies, they can kill PCās. Does your case have filters ?? If yes, keep an eye on them, if not, you could (crudely) cover the front of the case (assuming front fans pulling into case) with a cheap hvac filter, IF, youāve got serious levels of dust.
Ok So the wire came in for the monitor. I canāt really find what to do next. I think they (YouTubers) expect us to know already. I assume I just plug it in to make sure it turns on? I plug in the monitor and the power supply?
Well I think I missed some of what you were doing, after you determined you didnāt have the right monitor cable. If youāve double checked all your wiring, fan connectors, CPU/RAM seated correctly/fully, then I would advise, to leave the side off the case, plug in the monitor, and power it up. I suggest leaving the case open, so you can VISUALLY verify ALL of your case fans, CPU fan(s), GPU fan(s) are running. Once it powers up, nothing blows up, and ALL your fans are running, you can close the case up, and restore your airflow.
Something which I donāt know was mentioned or not, was fan direction. It IS possible to add a shit load of fans in a case, and it STILL runs hot. You have to smartly MOVE the air THROUGH the case. This is achieved by a push/pull setup. MANY different ways, so there is NO right one way. Typically, unless you have a BIG fan on top of case (some donāt vent out the top), you want to use half the fans to pull IN cool air, and the others vent hot air OUT. Push/pull.
Sometimes mistakes are made where ALL the fans are feeding air either IN or OUT at the same time, and causes problems. Take a single square of toilet paper and carefully (donāt let it get sucked into the fan) move it near your fans to see if they are moving air IN or OUT, and adjust as needed.
