If anyone has these mods and is frustrated with them not finding new coils with consistency, I have found a solution which works for me about 90% of the time.
Lock resistance in your current atty. That’s 3 click of the fire button, the minus button or left to scroll to ohms, then plus or right to lock in ohms. Fire the mod. If you want the mod to find the current atty as new, wait until both mod and atty are at room temp (5 mins or so) then remove the atty. Press and hold the fire button a few seconds. Now repeat the steps above but unlock the ohms. Start screwing in the atty but not enough to contact the pin. Now press and hold the fire button while screwing down the new atty. Let go of the fire button. If successful it will prompt for new coil right, same coil left. Choose new coil right. As I said it doesn’t always work but more often than not. These mods are great but that is a kinda glitchy thing with them. With all the negativity surrounding the xCube II, I can honestly say it always prompts for new atty…even though a NO answer doesn’t work
If you try this and it doesn’t work or have another solution please chime in.
I just click my heels together three times and say there’s no place like the clouds, there’s no place like the clouds
Then I take a shot of The Glen Livet and everything is all better
Seeing as I (should) have one of these on the way, is getting it to register a new coil important? I know with the one I have (Dovpo), it gives you the option of selecting ‘new coil’ when you put a new one on and it reads the resistance, but it also reads it as you fire it. I’ve accidentally clicked no before and it didn’t seem to affect anything. As soon as I fired it, it read the right resistance. Just curious why this would be an issue?
It’s important when you use one tank and remove it to refill. When you first install a tank and both mod and tank are at room temp, selecting new coil causes the mod to read the coil’s current temperature (resistance) as the baseline. So when you remove the tank to refill and put it back on, selecting same coil then has the mod setting back to the original baseline. At that point the temperature of the coil doesn’t matter because it was set already.Since the resistance of TC wire (TI, NI, SS) fluctuates predictably with varying temperature, then it reads the resistance when you reinstall and knows the coil’s current temperature.
But let’s say you pull your tank and rebuild or replace the coil head. Now you need to teach the mod to correctly read the new coil. So you wait until both mod and coil are at room temp and install so you can select new coil. With my 60w eVic I use 3 tanks in rotation, each with a rebuilt coil that is basically identical. With these I can “hot swap” without worrying too much. Any variation between them is very minor and TC works very well. But on my eVic Mini I swap some between a single coil on the Subtank and dual coil on the Goblin Mini. In this case it’s pretty darn important for the mod to see the new coil. I hope this helps.
Thanks, that makes sense. I didn’t think about TC and switching tanks since I don’t really do either at the moment. LoL. I have four ‘versions’ of a subtank mini that I switch between but that is about it.
If you’re referring to the eVic VTC 60w, that one is good for Ni200 and Ti grade 1. So either of those or Kanthal for power mode.
If she has the eVic VTC Mini, that one had a recent update that will allow for the input of Temperature Coefficient of Resistance giving the user more control over wires, particularly various grades of stainless. It will also do Ni200 and Ti grade 1, but also is preset for SS 316L (I think) and some other grades of SS once the custom TCoR is input.
Whew, breath! All that said, what kind of tank or RDA does she have, or are you asking what will work with it?
If you’re wanting to know what kind of tank with stock coils would be good for TC, someone else would need to answer that. I only do rebuildables.
As for rebuildables tho, for the smaller mods like the eVic VTC I’m finding they work much better with single coil RTAs like the Lemo 2, or the Subtank Mini with RBA section. Again though, I’m not really doing much of that lately so these recommendations are quite dated.
If you go that route and she’s not already up to speed for temperature control, here’s a quick start guide for you.
With the mod turned on, click the fire button 3 times to enter setting menu.
Once the top section is flashing, click the + button to cycle through Power, Bypass, Nickle, Titanium and Memory. So if she has Titanium, select "Ti"
Click the fire button to set.
Click the + or - button to set temp to 400F. This is where I tell everyone to start.
Click the fire button 3 times to enter menu
Click the minus button to cycle to watts. Then click the plus button to set watts to 45. Once done, click the fire button.
With the Ti coil installed in the tank, let both tank and mod sit for 10 mins to reach equal room temperature. Click and hold the fire button to clear any coil memory it has. Now screw on the coil and click the fire button. If prompted, select “New Coil” by click the plus button.
Then vape away. If it’s not hot enough, raise the temp 5 deg at a time till no change is noticed. Then if more warmth, vapor is desired, repeat the steps above to enter wattage adjust mode. Increase that 5-10 watts at a time. Ideally you won’t need to be more than say 520 F and 50 watts, but it’s a user preference thing.
If TC is not her thing, the link above will still show the Kanthal coils for this tank. I think you know all about those Good luck.
thank you so very very much! I really have no clue when it comes to the mods, tanks etc… I like the DIY stuff. Mom loves the thing. I let her have my playboy tank I won (can’t use it LOL sub’ohm) but she likes the one that goes to hers better so ordered the coils. oh I won the snowwolf with that playboy tank btw which is really pretty but for someone like me way too much power LOL
with that tank