Thanks for the well wishes and glad to hear most GC’s are working fine. If not please let me know.
Its a long story but I was able to reinstate my email gamechanger1952@yahoo.com. It was “dead” for quite awhile. I was both pleased and embarrassed to find numerous inquiries about the homogenizers. Interested parties are welcome to contact me there and you will get a response. However, I am unable to ship overseas. I will post pics about changing bearings shortly.
You’re correct and as old as I am you never know. 
These are common sizes though stainless sometimes has to be ordered.
The small GC uses a SSR3-2RS =3/16 x 1/2 x .1960 OR SSR3 ZZ which designates a stainless seal. I recommend using the ZZ which has held up much better.
The larger uses SSR4 (2 RS or ZZ) 1/4 x 5/8 x .1960.
Its ultra simple to change the upper bearing. Unscrew the rotor from the drive shaft as pictured above for cleaning. Find something either 3/16 or 1/4 depending on which size GC you have.
The bearing is in the white Delrin housing…It is a press fit.
Insert the rod etc into the bearing and pry/ wiggle gently until the bearing pops out.
Press the new bearing in by pushing it against a flat surface. DONE 
Thanks for that I will order a new one or two as I’m in the Uk and might as well be on the moon getting harder to get even simple items.As I said mines been fine but your better to cover your bases,hope you stay well
It’s good to see how easily this can be removed. I have broken a long list of stuff in my “curiosity” over the years, and that drove my caution. That’s how we learn. I should have taken a picture of the top side of the bearing I worked on, just for the records. Now I worry the back-side seal may have failed …and now I see I can pop out and check. A popped backside seal could be allowing liquid to get to that petroleum grease …bad. Me feeex!
I also worried about using that machine-grade (not food grade) lube, so I’ll contact you in IM re: a replacement. Cause of failure may easily be blamed on moisture laying up in the shaft. Your disassembly instructions may be critical care and not just “oh yeah this come apart”. I am going to be doing it after every mix session …it’s only a couple minutes extra anyway, and guarantees lab-grade cleanliness …like fussing over your glassware etc.
I have a clear silicone food-grade lube (grease) I bought in the plumbing Dept at the BigBox hardware. Danco Silicone Grease for replacing those Moen lever valves in sink assemblies, so supposedly water resilient (NOT their “waterproof plumbing lube”) and ok if a bit gets in your tap drinking water (FDA 21 rated). It is very thick and clear (fully like other greases) was just more unsure if it was rated for hi-rpm ball bearings. Eyes say “yes” but brain says “you don’t know shit” 
Still sounds like a viable test with a freshly degreased original “blue seal” bearing. That’s how I roll. I’ll get pix this time.
We all know vaping petroleum products, even small amounts, is bad. I now plan to pull my bearing fully, and take a new look and remove all (petroleum!) grease and inspect the seal on the side actually exposed to Juice while mixing. These bearings are the major component of the GC and we do need to keep everything food-grade. Also glad to hear I was only one of a couple having problems. Heh! Luckily as a Member of the Church of the Little Blue Screwdriver, I’m overly aware of any changes during operations 
and caught it immediately. Is there a Spec rating on the exact grease recommended?
Thanks SO much for getting back to us and we’re all SO happy to hear of your recovery. Rest Up! No worries…
I’ve had a lot of feedback after being out of the loop for the most part over a year. On the subject of maintenance and warranty I would like people to know the following:
I warrant against any defects in materials and workmanship. I didn’t specify any time period and don’t intend to. Unfortunately some things will need to be sent to me but as above the bearing change is easy. I expect them to last several years but 3 haven’t. I’m sourcing others and working on an alternative which I learned from what a major manufacturer is using. I’m testing it myself before making changes although they are the leader in the industry for lab sized devices.
I’m not a manufacturer. Just as I said from the beginning a few years ago, just a retired old man and vaper piddling around in my shop who wanted to bring the benefits of mechanized mixing i.e. homogenization to the DIY and cottage industries. If I engaged in manufacturing the prices would easily quadruple or more.
On the subject of cleaning and disassembly, the lower Teflon bushing should never be removed except by me. They are Teflon and nothing we use will stick to or contaminate it. It should last for many years. I started servicing and repairing several different brands and found many that were in still in good condition after years of service.
The materials used for constructing these vary plus or minus a couple of thousandths which is a lot for the application. Tooling used varies the same. They wear. So I need to fit these and can’t just ship them off the shelf. A few thousandths off can be problematic. Pushing them out through the lower end will cause them to shear in the lower exit ports because those are left sharp for the “high shear” effect. Just unscrew the rotor from the driveshaft and remove the drive shaft and rotor and then hold the device under running water. As said above though, I seldom do more than run the device in a glass of distilled water and shake out whatever droplets remain. It depends on what I’m mixing. I have devices made by others where it would be a major ordeal to clean other than by this method.
I’m planning to list some very nice equipment in the for sale section and yes, I’m back in the saddle as far as producing GC’s on a very limited basis.
I bet you 90% of the ones that failed at least maybe more are from lack of cleaning. Two words COMPRESSED AIR, well after washing. I use my compressor airline to dry just about anything and everything really gets in the nooks and crannies corners
I’ve been watching from afar , I’m still pretty new here… Read a couple year posts nifty little gadge… I may have to check that out… Thanks!
Exactly, Teflon is tough . I work in the auto repair biz and that’s what Ford uses for their power steering racks as washers for the (really) high pressure lines.
, Once you remove them there junk if you don’t know how to…well in my experience anyway.
it’s funny cuz to get them on we just had to soak them in hot water
If you get this maybe you can reply a link to where I can check this out seems pretty great I was on at the other day but I forget where it was. Thank you
Interesting. @BoDarc told me that he thinks mineral buildup from his water caused the bearing seal to fail. Possible I guess and he did say that he had been lax with cleaning it. My thoughts are that the usual crappy Chinese “quality” control is at play. But, I’ve had these last over 2 years and are still fine.
I use distilled water for drinking and cooking and use it with my mixing equipment. Distilled is otherwise called the universal solvent so I haven’t seen any buildup like that. For those using it for thinning a mix I would use distilled. Pure H2O and nothing else in it.
With the GC’s there is an upper ball bearing at the top and a lower guide bushing at the bottom made from PTFE or “Teflon.” Technically it is a plain bearing but guide bushing is what people here are familiar with. Removing the drive shaft and rotor for cleaning is easy and then the stator tube can be held under running water. The guide is a drive fit and placed about 1 inch inside the tube. Due to tight tolerances I then locate and machine dead center. Most materials used are + or - .002 so while its a pain to do I’ve found this to be the best way.
I’ve been posting about the homogenizing process on the forums for several years so It would be hard to direct you a to a particular post. I’m glad to answer any questions as to the how and why concerning high shear homogenization. However https://www.silverson.com/ has some really great short video’s I recommend to everyone. I can answer exactly what is taking place with the mixing products we use. 
@mrpipes I bought a ZERO WATER FILTER pitcher… Man it blows those other filtered Waters away even bottled water comes with a tester. My tap water is 168 parts per million the local grocery store stop & shop bottled water is 35 ppm
And Poland spring is 25 PPM. The picture is literally 0PPM
FILter In December 18th (Labeled with my label maker of course) HAHAHA April 18th it’s just now getting to one PPM you’re supposed to replace it at 6:00 and there’s two filters for 30 bucks I use it for coffee all the water to clean tanks etc everything the thing is amazing worth every penny probably like your device
@mrpipes I’m sorry I should have been more specific. I meant a link buy one. where would i go ,is there a link to a site, your site to purchase? or do i just or do I just talk to you directly about it?
i saw your not into “manfacturing” so maybe they are “made to order” and how much do they cost. Really more just like to support what you’re doing. It seems like you know your stuff. Thats admirable. I don’t really need it per say, but if the ppl here say it’s a game changer, it must be!
When I read one of the posts last week I googled homogenization process pretty cool I never knew what it was I just knew milk went through it LOL thank you for your reply/info
at autopart international local store I use to purchase car parts ETC for business. they had a moog bearing setup to display how porous those cheap second line Chinese bearings are.
you push the primer bulb ,like on a carburetor, an the cheap quality second or third line crap bearing the water literally came right through the metal. it what an interesting display.
Random I know. but it’s kind of like what you’re talking about cheap Chinese bearings water or liquid’s literally go right through them cuz there so porous
For now that would be the best way. I’m just starting back and don’t have a website or anything in place. Its a long story but when I was making these I had a wait list and people were waiting for sometimes months. Then I got very ill and spent a long time recovering. Luckily, I’m doing well all things considered. Ahh, the smell of cutting oil in the morning.
A lot of interested people were left hanging. Those few that I have contacted are for the most part still interested. To be honest I’m not sure how to handle this. but I’m thinking half of what I produce on a first come basis and half towards those that were left dangling. While expensive, I have offered what I have listed in the other post. Plus I have more.
Yeah seeing how they operate goes a long way . I should write something on the specifics of using high shear mixers for ejuice. Lots of new people here. I’ve had a lot of praise for the development of the GC from a lot of mixers. Weeks change into hours or sometimes a day or two.
I did some checking. There aren’t many sources for stainless steel bearings this size. I also made a rig where I could run a drive shaft and bearing underwater at high speed. Nothing failed and I looked under a microscope. I’ve had about a 1% failure rate over a two year period but haven’t nailed down the cause. My concern about @BoDarc 's unit was that I thought the bearing should be replaced for safety rather than refilling with lubricant in case it failed again. The good thing is that if one starts to fail the operator will definitely know it. These run between 10 and 30 K rpm. 
@mrpipes yeah one of the second or third images when the green liquid hits the homogenizer it just …POOF INSTANTANEOUS.
yeah i’m new here i think only a couple months or so maybe more time does go by.,. i’m glad you’re feeling better!
I’m still not back to work yet but I remember I had my first back surgery and I was out for 2 months and the first day back I walked into the shop and that smell that shop smell just like you were saying with the cutting oil.
Was probably like exhaust emissions and old spilled engine oil , but damn it smelled good.
The cheap harbor freight Dremel I have 9.6 volt cordless goes 5 to 25 k it’s actually pretty good for what it was I almost bought the new Dremel 8260 the one with the brushless motor but home Depot is the only one who sells it exclusive deal for now and do I really need Bluetooth on my Dremel when the harbor freight one was $31 and it came with the extender hand piece whatever.
I’m not sure how much they are the GC I mean what we talking 50 bucks 200 500 I think that would be my real maybe I should just message you sorry I’m just blabbering
Good questions and some things I’ve been planning to announce but yeah it’s nice to be working some. I “retired” years ago. My first job was in 1968 working in a tool and die shop. I went on to other things but always enjoyed machining.
On the price 2 years ago they sold for $200 US. I will have to raise the price some. Everything’s gone up and supply chains are broken. I haven’t decided how much but I’ll keep it as low as possible. I’m working through materials I had on hand when disaster struck. My main purpose was to design a tool that would be cost and use effective and affordable for the DIY mixer whatever they are involved in. High shear devices are used across all processing needs.
I began by designing a tool that would be compatible with 3 different brands of moto tools. 2 of the 3 are nearly impossible to find. While the spindle threads are the same, the lengths were different and therefore required different length drive parts. Unfortunately I will have to limit mine to be compatible with Dremel brand for the foreseeable future.
The Silverson videos go a long way towards showing the high shear process. https://www.silverson.com/ . I’m planning to write a guide about using it to homogenize PG and VG based products which will deal with exactly what is occurring and how and why. I’d rather PM this to interested people. These devices create stable homogeneous suspensions that are vape ready in very short time frames.
Just so you know the Dremel thread I’m not sure about the exact length for whatever model I think you said 4300 but the threads are the same as the harbor freight one.
I’m def no machinist whatsoever but nuts bolts and threads and taps dies or big part of my job … Everything on Cape cod is either stripped , disintegrated ,Frozen . It’s salt salt and more salt every season… But yeah I was going to get the drill chuck and the ez nose cap nut for Colette from the Dremel version and put it on the harbor freight. I did and it fit perfectly I don’t know if that helps you at all I hope it does .I know what you mean though cuz I had two chucks already and neither of them fit the threads on the spindle were so fine and I have another call at from a different die grinder rotary tool whatever a Sears .
Spindle on this one’s 8 mm outer diameter 5 inner I’m not sure what the threads are I guess it doesn’t really matter I am going to have to hold off I enjoy listening to it you talk about it though I love people that know what they’re talking about and you obviously do!
The spindle thread is damned near obsolete. Its .275 x 40 BSW (British Standard Whitworth) that was used mostly on watchmaker lathes. They’re hard to find. My guess is that Dremel used it trying to keep people from making things to fit their spindle. I dunno, but it was a bitch to figure out exactly what it was and also to find. I didn’t have a thread gauge for it. Only source I know of is China and I bought a box full.
Any Dremel 10 yo and newer will work. The sears craftsman is likely Dremel but may be their old threads. The rest is up in the air. I see you’re capable of taking accurate measurements so if you ever want one of these contact me and we’ll take it from there. For everyone else the Tacklife and Black and Decker aren’t to be found in the US. One person recently said he thought he bought the Last B&D RTX anywhere. IF you have one that pukes I can retrofit your GC to be used with a Dremel.
I’ve actually heard of that British standard thread before and of course Dremel zone by Bosch which is what in Germany or the UK oh boy yeah you must have had a fun time with that!
hello great the game changer project. how can i contact you privately?
Hi.I have replied via gamechanger1952@yahoo.com. I only check it a couple of times a day. Notifications in my workshop are useless due to noisy machinery.
A few are shipping this week.
