Getting a new regulated mod

Hardware Hardware - Mods etc
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Hello everyone,

I have been looking at regulated mods for an upgrade, as it seems my istick 40w is nearly dead.
Two notes:

  • I have never tried TC, only wattage mode and Kanthal so far. So, that’s that.
  • I am mainly looking at good quality and a better vaping experience that is coming from a better board, not tons of features, etc. So, ANY other suggestions are welcome.

Right now I am between the Asmodus Ohmsmium (that’s a heavy one!!):


and the HCigar VT75 nano:
http://hcigar.com/index.php/Product/view/id/748.html#
Any other suggestions are welcome of course. Just not sure if the Ohmsmium can fit a 24mm RTA though.

A thing to note that has got me slightly confused regarding the HCigar one. According to the manufacturer’s website, they suggest a 18650 battery with discharging current above 25A (check the link).
However, it does not specify if its maximum continuous discharge or maximum pulse discharge (which have different meanings). Assuming the first, which makes more sense, it seems that even the best batteries in this category are in the range of ~20A. Am i missing something here? For example, I have been looking at the LG HG2 3000 20A (https://batterybro.com/blogs/18650-wholesale-battery-reviews/57179459-lg-hg2-review-20a-3000mah). Would there be any danger using such a cell?
Furthermore, it is slightly confusing to me that the manufacturer suggests something like that, as I have not seen it in anywhere else.

Thanks!!

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I think @BoyHowdy @Pattie @Scottes777 are all dna75 owners and they should be able to help with more information .

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Yup, I certainly have some DNA 75 mods.

My favorite - thanks to a recommendation by BoyHowdy - is the SDNA 75. Great size, comfortable, and I love the coating. The settings are also supposed to be very, very good. Some DNA mods need some programming, but this one comes with an excellent collection of settings out of the box.

I also have an hCigar VT75 nano, but it’s too small for my hands. My wife likes it a lot. Excellent construction quality, very comfortable. I really, REALLY wish this were 10% or 15% larger, especially in height.

I have a Therion from Lost Vape. This is unusual in that it uses two 18650s in parallel, which greatly increases the vaping time before needing new batteries. It is also very well made, and a gorgeous piece. Be aware that it is the mod most likely to be damaged. The leather panels can stain from spilled juice, they can get scratched easily, etc. Also, this mod is quite large and heavy because of the dual-battery design.

My wife also has at least one DNA 75, but I can’t find it right now. I’ll have to ask her later.

Also note that you might want to reconsider about a DNA 75 if you don’t have a PC, since their software only runs on Windows. While it’s not necessary to be able to program your mod, the ability to do so can be very beneficial. But many TC mods don’t even let you program them, so this may be moot.

As for batteries, you’re probably going to want to get a high-drain battery regardless what model you get. The suggestion of one with a discharge rate of 25A or greater is correct. A 20A battery will just barely do 75 watts (20 amps * 3.7 volts) and most 20A batteries are not rated to always do 20 amps sustained.

Yes, an incorrect battery can be dangerous - they can overheat and vent, which is not good. You really want a high-drain battery if you’re going to do 75 watts. Note that if you run at a lower wattage, you can use a 20A battery. But you currently don’t know what you are going to run at, so be safe and get a high-drain 25A battery.

Here’s an article that’s worth checking out: The Best Vape Batteries in 2016

My recommendation is the LG 18650HB6, which is only 1500 mAh - but I’d rather be safe and swap batteries. Other folks will probably come along with other recommendations, since there are many quality batteries that would be fine for a DNA 75 mod.

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Agreed with @Scottes777. I own the vt75 18650/26650, i use this daily for my mtl morning vapes, so I generally don’t build that low, around 0.2-0.8.
I think the dna board is the best board out to date. The most accurate and safest board there is, now even more so with the 250 board due for release.
On the batteries, i use some samsung 30q’s in mine purely for battery life. I did use lg brownies but Mooch has recently downgraded them to an 18a battery, before that was lghe4’s but they were 2500mah whereas the 30q’s are 3000mah. These were/are all good batteries “20a” continuous. Mooch now recommends the sony vtc5A battery as it is a 25a continuous rated cell with “exelent properties” . The lghb6 is a 30a continuous rated battery but the dna chip has a 24a cut off , so your never going to reach the limits of that battery, an exelent battery, but i would trade for more mah than the amps. Again this all depends on how low you build. If your building at like, 0.08 then you really don’t want a single 18650 mod.
As for the asMODus, it was the weight that put me off that’s why i got the Stride-vr 80 instead, same chip (I believe) better colours and alot lighter. Look it up. :wink:
If you do decide to go the dna route, (recommend) you will need to start using escribe software. Don’t worry, it seems more daunting than it actually is. And plenty of help on here.
If you gave an idear as to how you build, or intend building, if you want to use tc, what wires, ti,ss,ni etc , more information could be given.

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Awesome to know!
Granted that means that I bought the wrong battery. :cry:
And I bought 10 of them. :sob:

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The dna actually has a 25a fuse so best to set it to 24a, that way keeps the fuse safe. :wink:
Still good batts bro, get plentyof use out of them. Exelent choice for a mech mod. :+1:

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Just an FYI…anyone vaping should learn about batteries, from knowledgeable sources.
Lithium-Ion batteries ARE NOT your Daddy’s flashlight batteries.
If you have internet access there are no excuses.
Most vapers don’t know how, or even ‘what’ catches on fire when it does.
One can start [here] and should not end here. Make the time and put in the effort…to be safe.
Then, learn about proper chargers and charging. Batteries are one of the most expensive layers in vaping,
and with knowledge, they will last a long time.

http://www.wikivapia.org/wiki/Batteries:_Everything_you_want_to_know_about_batteries

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@Scottes777 glad you like the SDNA75 !
I don’t have either of the ones you are considering , I do own the SDNA 75 and the Hcigar VT75 .I have no problem recommending either of those.It just depends on personal tastes but I do prefer the SDNA75 due to it’s size .I see several don’t like using 25mm tanks on it but I don’t mind the small amount of overhang.I run Boreas and Smok TF-RTA G4 on mine the majority of the time.

I honestly don’t think you are going to get a better vaping experience until you change your coil materials and try something other than Kanthal.I like and use both Titanium grade 1 and 316L Stainless Steel.I can’t recommend anyone use Ti on watts mode but SS will give you a better vape on Watts mode but both SS and Ti excel on T/C.
The SDNA 75 already has some amazing profiles loaded for SS and works great for that right out of the box.

@Pattie as usual has great Info , most regulated mods have a fair amount of safety built in but I do feel that Evolv and their DNA boards are among the safest out there.
I also love the looks of the Stride VR80 as well as the Asmodus in your post.When it comes to 18650 batteries I try and stick with a few that I know.
I am happy with the Samsung 30Q’s batteries in all my single 18650 regulated mods.

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@ozo I totally agree. I am always trying to read as much as possible. Still, my knowledge on the matter is limited as i’m in comp science, not in engineering.
As for a charger, i was thinking of going for the um-20 http://charger.nitecore.com/product/um20
or the d2 http://charger.nitecore.com/product/digicharger-d2 which has an overcharging cutoff as well.

@Scottes777, @Pattie I currently own an istick40w which holds a 2600mah battery, and i am charging it once a day. Surely, the efficiency will be better on a better mod, but getting a 1500mah battery to run it on 75w (i am probably never going to go more than 40-50) will drain the battery very fast, no?
Anyhow, it seems that the hcigar vt75 does not really get to 75W anyways, :relaxed:: https://youtu.be/gbD-mOgTWxI?t=2024 .
p.s. Not that it matters, but the Stride-vr seems to not be the same chip as ohmsmium (gx80-f/gx80-c)

I was thinking of getting the LG HG2 https://batterybro.com/blogs/18650-wholesale-battery-reviews/57179459-lg-hg2-review-20a-3000mah which is 3000mah. It is a ~20A so, I will not be able to get up to 75W. I think that you can adjust the ampere cutoff within the escribe software anyways, right?

BUT, what would happen if you accidentally go beyond that (e.g. mechanical error)? I am full of silly questions, as the ones I had before buying an RBA. Will it go ka-boom? And how dangerous is that ka-boom? Should i take my batteries with me when i go out? Greece can be hot…etc…Should i just get another istick which includes the battery and live with it?

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Yes, it will. Pattie had a much better suggestion for a battery then mine, especially if you’re going to do 40-50W.

Remember, though, that TC is very different. In power mode I do 55W, but in TC mode I do about 120 Watts. In TC mode, wattage determines how fast the coils heats up, and I like it to get hot very fast. When I vape I start inhaling then press the button, so speed is important to me. When my wife vapes, she hits the button, waits for the sizzle, then starts inhaling. Her Wattage setting in TC mode is much lower than mine, because she doesn’t need it to get hot as quickly as i like it.

The HG2 is an excellent battery. And if you end up using higher wattage then more-appropriate batteries are available.

There are better mods out there. And there are many good reasons to move to 18650s. Though they are more expensive in the short run (battery & charger costs), they are full of conveniences like being able to pop in a fresh, fully-charged battery.

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Any new Nitecore charger is safe, and charges well…but that’s all it does. Most people can’t afford a SkyRC, and it has modes the normal vaper will never use, but it has functions that all of us that recharge lithium-ion batteries should use.
A wonderful alternative is the Opus BT-C3100 which is much more affordable, generally around $60 on Amazon, but I think GearBest has them for under $35. Although I have many chargers, the Opus 3100 is my favorite ‘everyday’ charger. Some features are…checking new batteries for authenticity, put proper charge for storage, has text and numbers instead of LED’s, will recondition batteries up to 99 times each, and many other features, and the outcome is longer battery life…which saves you money and will actually pay for itself in a short time.

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whats the big deal with the dna, if you only use your mod in wattage mode ??? or does it not matter then

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What makes you think I only run it in wattage mode?

Even when I do run a DNA in wattage mode I think it performs better than many non-DNA mods.

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@fidalgo_vapes That’s actually a good question. What if someone doesn’t do/like TC mode, is a “good” mod worth it? It seems that most of the effort there is going into managing the temperature well under different settings.

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it was a question dude , are you serious , nevermind sorry you assumed i was speaking of what you do in your life

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so you obviously understood i was asking a question ty

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I didn’t assume, you replied to me.

Well then I guess I assumed that you knew what you were clicking on. Whatever dude, click what you want.

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I think what he was trying to address was the fact that some of the cheapie mods don’t even do wattage/power mode well. Which even if you’re not interested in TC mode, is important. =)

For instance, one of the major complaints that I had about my flask mod (60w, 4400mah, dual internal batt) couldn’t even do power mode well. The power delivered was inconsistent, which is why I went from that into my Sigelei Spark 90.

The problem then was, not enough battery life, and compounded by the fact that it was on the verge of overheating when I put a 0.27 ohm load on it. And that was at only 40-55w! (great for 0.4 and up though -heat wise).

That’s what led me to using the VT133 (thanks to recommendations here). And it’s been stellar in both TC (using SS) and power too!

So that could be what you’re missing :wink:

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and thats what i was asking , i never once implied he was using his device a certain way , itvwas a question that i didnt know the answer to , so whatever made hi. assume i was questioning how he used his device is over my head ty for the reply

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What a shame when someone gets their panties in a knot here on ELR…and spurts out negativity.
And over what? Someone call your favorite device a whore? Did some ‘man card’ get challenged?
This is the ELR forum, not facebook or any other similar social media haunt. Be here civil, or be quiet.

Apology.jpg719×538 73.4 KB

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