How long does a RDTA, or other tanks, last?

Hardware Rebuildable Atomizers and Tanks
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Ok I realise its a bit of a “how long is a piece of string” type question, but I’m curious as to how well peoples RDTA’s have held up over time… I’m currently using a couple of voopoo rimfires (abt 6 months old).

For example, I had (still have) a couple of Aspire tanks (triton mini, atlantis evo, and clieto - in that order) and apart from having upgraded over time they are all still more than serviceable. I’d say that each one has had between 1-3 years of usage.

None of those tanks came with spare anything (no seals, extra glass - nada) and even though were used for quite some time, they never needed any parts replaced (and besides were cheap enough that had that been needed, then I could have just brought a new one).

Now some of the rdta’s and such like are quite expensive, and others are not much more pricey than the aspire kit, but most come with spare glass and quite often a full set of replacement o-rings and seals and whatnot. But has anyone, who uses kit for a fairly long period of time, ever needed to replace a seal or even replace the glass (barring accidents like dropping it on the floor and breaking the glass blush)?

It seems that with normal/moderate use these things should last for years, if not kinda indefinitely, especially with all the spare do-dads.

So what’s the longest peoples RDTA’s (or other tanks) have lasted? Still going, and still in daily use?

I guess drippers would last the longest (nigh on forever) as apart from the seals, the only other bit I can think that would fail would be the insulation (cracking/disintegrating) on the deck or the insulation between the shell and the positive screw.

[edited to add] I guess rubber seals would also break down over time (we’ve all seen aged rubber bands that have become brittle but that tends to be for different reasons), but the silicon ones theoretically should last longer.

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My pharaoh rta is still used in rotation now since september 2017. Or was it december? The only thing i had to change was the o rings when it started to leak early this year. A friend gave it to me after a few months of use.

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Could last a lifetime if you take good care of them and just replace o rings when needed! However with the vape tech changing all the time and developing better flavor and techniques. I personally would retire one when there’s a better one out. I do get where your coming from though it’s nice to keep what you like a long time.

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It is a bit of a similar question to “How long does your car last”. Even within the same brand and model, it all depends on the use and the care that the owner puts into it. If you then branch out to other brands and models, you’re entering the wild west territory with wildly varying experiences.

I am still on my original Goon v1, which I’ve used the most of all atties and is my daily driver, and after 2.5 years there’s no sign of wear and tear. No paint that comes off, no o-rings that need replacement, no screws that needed to be changed, no bent plates that hold the coils down… but I’ve seen some other stories from other users too.

The only atty that I don’t have anymore was my first clone dripper, and I don’t even know what it was a clone of. The o-rings were seated in the cap instead of the base, came loose whenever I opened it to drip and were near impossible to fit back into the crevice. It was a total waste of time and if I vaped 10ml in it, I’m probably hugely exaggerating.

I have a Tsunami dripper, also around 2.5 years old that I is my 2nd most used atty. It has signs of wear, I dropped it a couple times and had to try and reshape the cap a bit. It’s barely visible, you wouldn’t notice if I don’t point it out. Same thing, original o-rings and screws, even the original drip tip.

I’ve got 2 Aromamizers RDTA Plus’es but they haven’t had enough use to really give an opinion about it. I’ll get back to you 2 or 3 years from now :wink: but besides o-rings that need replacing for picking up a flavor profile, I don’t think I’ll have anything major to report.

If you buy anything RDA/RDTA/RTA (unless you’re really buying crap clone quality) you’re set for years or even decades. The only thing I’d be a bit weary of is those models with a sliding filling cap. That looks like something that can wear out after extensive use… but I have no experience with that yet so I won’t bet my house on it :slight_smile:

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Yes and no. If you don’t use an atty regularly, those things will dry out and deteriorate faster than when they’re in use. Again, analogy with cars… if you don’t use them, they break down. Your juice will keep your o-rings healthy.

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Great post @PiercedJon. I can help with this LOL. I have a mountain of MOST versions and iterations of the Steam Crave lineup. I still have 3 of the original v.1’s from 2014 and not only are they still working perfectly, but all of my other, newer models as well. I don’t think I’ve even had to replace the orings on the originals yet.

#SteamCraveStayStrong

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I have 2 Medusa’s (not the reborn ones) that see play time regularly. I also use my RH’s as well. I now have 3 of them.

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I still I use the original Cleito with the RTA and bubble glass I actually have 3 … Ive never needes to repair …i bought them when they first came out …

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Thanks to everyone that has replied.

. @Sprkslfly although you deleted your post you are correct, I’ve just looked at the old packaging for the clieto and they did indeed come with additional glass. Guess my memory was getting a bit hazy :slight_smile:

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That’s a good solid 3+ish years. I guess no one can really complain about that kind of life span.

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I use Steam Crave Aromamizers exclusively.
I still have a V1 Aromamizer that has never taken any additional servicing over the last 5 years.
Just replace cotton and coils regularly.
The set screws & O-rings are original.

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I had to retire my magma after 5 years. My Velocity is still solid after 5 years. Most things I have retired because I found something I liked better. I can say that the only RTA I had with a spring loaded top died after a week and RTA’s with the juice flow seals inside a press fit base last about a year. I never was successful replacing those o-rings. O-rings I replace once a year just on principle, kinda like changing the oil in the car.

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@PiercedJon you know what a PERFECT pairing to your original thread would be ?? How about RDTA’s that DIDN’T last very long thread ??

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I still have my Kanger Subtank Mini from 2015. It’s a bit beat up and the black paint is chipping in places, but still going strong!

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Me too! My Subtank looks like the day I bought it, seals are still good since 2015 also. I guess the only thing would be I haven’t quite been able to remove the glass in a few years (I’ve tried). Would probably shatter if I use any more force. I think as long as everything is kept bagged while not in use it will last longer.

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I found quite a bit of online shops that still sell the authentics, so I might just stock up. I’ve tried various other tanks, but they don’t work for my vaping style

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I still have mine too! I had the white one, it and the subox are beat to hell but would still work if I needed them to. They’re in retirement now for me

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I tried removing the glass from the Toptank version, but it ain’t budging. I wanted to fit the Cleito bubble glass to give it extra capacity. Looks like I may have to break the old glass and replace the o-rings.

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I’ve had a few that were JOA, Junk on Arrival but beyond that all my atties have lasted me for years. I think the thing I worry about the most is the grub screws. I picked up a precision driver set and am very careful to get a good solid match to the screws.

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Yeah, I actually went out and brought a Wera and replaced the m2.5 slot screws with hex grubs (from accu in the uk) on my voopoo rimfire’s. I just find them so much easier to use, especially when I accidentally end up undoing them to the point they fall out. Although I’ve heard people don’t like hex grubs because at that size they can end up with the hex hole “stripped” (although I would have thought that the quality, hardness, and fit of the driver plays a huge part).

Slots are such a pain to get back in because they don’t balance well on the tip of the screwdrivers (although having a good set - read expensive set - of micro-screwdrivers helps a lot over the cheap plastic tri-tool most tanks come with; however the cheap sets of 6, from Wilko’s, ones tend to be to “fat” on the end).

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