Hi I have been playing with the pioneer F U mods as I call them great board just few screws they messed up on main problem I keep seeing in most of them is 510 ground all of them I work on I have a face book page that is full of fixes test for ipv mini II ipv4 and pic and video https://m.facebook.com/modbustersecigs if I understand stand correct you have a ipv mini II 70 watt ? Easy fix the battery will go down at 60 watts sort of quick but not below 3.2 volts as you stated but with falty ground on the 510 I have seen them do a lot of things there not suppose to pioneer for u uses a screw about like the one in a dripper pressed against the out side of the 510 housing to ground wire solder to the screw head ipv4s they changed to match my custom mods check it out got any ? I will do my best to help never seen one fail from juice getting in side yet
Actually it is not I who has the problem but I’m sure @SthrnMixer would love to hear this info. He is the one that has the IPV2 Mini that needs some attention. Thanks for chiming in !!!
Actually just for you @ringling I went ahead and tore into this thing today. I have pictures and such I will share as soon as I get time to put it together. Bottom line…I didn’t find anything wrong inside. But you’ll see…this is not what I would call a marvel of modern craftsmanship 
For what it is, I think it’s fine but after reading @lost_in_vape post, I’m wondering if I had merely been putting more strain on the single 18650 than it could handle. I do a lot of testing of liquids with it and the set up is most often a dual coil .3 ohm rda at 60 watts. Really I think that’s pushing it for a single battery mod anyway but hey, it’s still below it’s max. Anyway, back with photos tomorrow or next day.
O I did not mean in any way the mod can not slam 60 watts no problem when you said how low the battery was going was what got my attention sorry about the tag there ringling on my site I fire a .23 build on mine now not very offen over 55 watts battery no problem I can not take it in reading your build at let say .3 fire it and note the volts should be 4.2 at 60 watts if the voltage is higher or jumping around the ground is most likely bad witch feeds info back to the board and it adjust now if it reading a.3 build at .5/1. Then ohms law goes out the window and the voltage will be way to high once repairs are done it is my go to mod when I am not using temp control device
Meh, my IPV2 mini took a dump last night, I think.
I noticed it was stuck at 35w…no button would do anything, took the battery out for a min then put it back in, same thing.
If I’m lucky I will get one fire out of it and then the display jams up and I’ve got to remove the battery.
Now that’s got bad ground all over your statement check battery cap first another thing I do is remove what ever type of atty you have on it remove battery cap and reinstall at same time press and hold fire button do not let up should go in to I’d mode show funny dots on screen then build of board specs release button remove battery again and reinstall plug in USB charger battery should show charging battery taking full screen if mod is off if not hit fire button 5 times power mod down let it charge for hour mod will be warm buy now you have just tested your board battery and fire button
So I tried the above mentioned tests, the fire button works and I’m able to read my chipset model number and all that…I didn’t try charging it, but you’ve got me convinced it’s a ground issue, so now what?
Do I need to resolder a ground somewhere?
If so that should be an easy fix, I’m good with a soldering iron.
step one watch the videos i posted ok remove atty remove battery find a paper plate or pie tray the buttons on the mod fall out and get lost easy trust me on that there is nothing else that falls out after you remove the two alien screws holding the mod together screws out i used a pocket knife right were the battery cap was and usb you should be able to see were it slits i be leave you already got yours open i have had a couple that were real tight ok take a pic noticing how the wires are routed very important remove battery tube cut the 510 ground tight close to were it is solder at the 510 not battery cap or board end ground only not white undo screw in center of 510 you will need to hold the bottom side stop it from spinning pay attention little parts in side 510 and spring i do take ever thing out of the 510 now remove board battery tube and set it aside ok the housing is pot metal i be leave remove 510 housing i use a socket just a bit larger than the 510 flip the case over so im am looking at inside of mod set the mod on the socket and drive the 510 out clean the out side of the 510 case real good shiny clean a must note the hole were the screw was i use a small drill and slot it open please see pics ok now clean housing were 510 goes pres tap it back in solder wire straight to 510 case and re assembly
sorry ringling did it again
I meant to post some photos here but I can’t find them. I’m not tearing back into this thing because I don’t need to. I didn’t find anything wrong. Solder joints are solid and no crimped wires. I did do some cleaning of the battery contact in the tube and the threads of the tube and battery cover. What was happening previously doesn’t seem to be happening now - especially worth noting is it’s not draining batteries below 3.5 volts or so as opposed to before where it was at just over 1.5. I don’t know why its stopped pulling batteries down but it has stopped. Sorry for the late reply and for being no more help than this.
Thanks for making the videos and sharing the links.
I’m somewhat familiar with it, since did have it apart to clean it up and to smell for burnt-ness near the board. And I do have a multi meter I can check things out with.
By the pics you’ve posted I’m not clear where I need to solder, but I’m sure I will figure it out once I get it apart and heat up the iron.
BUT first I MUST ask: what did you do to get that box to shine like that???
The ground is the black wire looks like it is soldered to the case by the 510 it is soldered to a screw head which press against 510 and that is were the problem is look at the video of silver ipv4 good pic of case cut out and wire solder to 510 not screw head so check ohms like I explained in the video showing how to test with no disassemble every one I have fixed works better be sure to wiggle the ground by the 510 as you test I just opened the mod up posted still shots polished the mod wire wheel sandpaper then polish could not find a paint that would stay on it now about once a month buff it up again
Well I cracked it open and took mine apart again, and now it is plainly obvious what the issue is on mine.
The white wire that attaches to the bottom of the positive pin is all twisted up like a balloon animal.
If I was a guessing, I’d assume the positive center pen on my attys has been turning this around and around for months now.
Fortunately, the center pin comes apart when you hold the wired/soldered back plate and unscrew the center pin from the topside.
I will be cutting the excess slack back and resoldering this over the weekend or even tonight.
It’s funny, at one time 1 regulated mod was enough, but now I think, “it sure would be nice to have 3 regulated mods!” lol
Thanks for your help and guidance Lost In Vape!
Double damnit!!
The center pin repair worked great, but it didn’t fix my issue.
So I proceeded to the ground wire screw fix and I just cant solder to the chassis and I defeated the screw(hole) with my dremel to scuff the surface for solder, sucks…I give up for the time being.
I take the 510 right out of the housing clean it up good as well as get all the dirt and paint out of the housing of the mod it self slide press the 510 back in with the center pin and insulators out wire tinted put the iron right in the center of the 510 Flux past and get a drop of solder on 510 hot touch the wire as soon as it flows remove iron hold steedy for few secounds done deal first few were a pain and after doing a few getting pretty good you can do it
Yeah I have had more than one person tell me there 510 center pin was adjustable I say don’t turn that screw or it will screw up the mod as much movement as it has and the was they did the spring no need to touch it but mine bite on my tanks some times mostly screw head type I have sanded more than one smooth
Anyone that has a pioneer 4 u that the are not going to fix I buy them for parts and ipv 2 mini ipv4s ipv4 I don’t care if there board is bad need parts to rebuild other mods and seeing pioneer will not sell parts to me I must find them elsewhere thanks
Go figure. As much reverse engineering the Chinese does and profits from other’s designs you would think they wouldn’t have a problem with it. Whatever man, whatever.
世界是属于中国。他们只是让我们存在！
Or so they think.
made me LOL when I ran it through translate!