Just asked @daath about that. Mine had been changed to ‘cheese’. Don’t know who or why. 
But are those Stainless Steel or Nickel and do you have an ambulance on speed dial?
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I just noticed them today too. I think @daath gave us the names, but you can change it in your preferences. I like mine though so I will leave it the way it is.
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Kanthal 24gauge, 2.5 diameter, 7 wraps, (steam says about .3ohm as dual coil setup)
…and a lamp shade for a top cap?
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What are you talking about? The joke pics other people posted or mine? I confused…
Sorry nevermind I just woke up and am on my broken screen Nokia… I don’t know what those ones are lol
It was the joke pictures, I’m sorry Mike.
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I really need to get an RDA and start building!
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Yes, you do! 
It kinda takes vaping to another dimension when you start twisting your own coils. For some, I understand, time is of the essence and having the time to fiddle with twisting coils is not in their schedule (i.e. stock/premade coils); that’s cool. But, twisting your own coils opens yourself up to a myriad of other atomizers and you’re no longer dependent on what vendor has what coils in stock at any given time.
It can be challenging but a lot of fun as well!
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Try dual 24gcore 32g outter claptons. Vertical 3.0 mm5 wraps. .25ohms is what it should come out to. Fire at 50 watts. Best best best vapor production and full on flavor. Looks like this. The ones in here are 3.5mm but this is what it should look like.
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I don’t have much wire left, only 22g Ti and 24g kanthal.
Currently using my serial dual build with the Ti. Works great.
I have claptons in my velocity rda that work nice, though:) but I didn’t make them, @BoyHowdy gave it to me already set up.
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@mikelej14 I have a bunch of the little Kanger mini RBA plus and use them every day. I throw them in a little tupperware thing when used, and when I get 10 or so, I sit and build them, so all I have to do is change them out when needed.
They are tiny, and sometimes the wire doesn’t want to stay under the screw at first, and I suggest you use a good quality screwdriver [not the little blue] on those teeny screws.
Because they are small, this is where a platform like the CM 521 TAB REALLY helps. I did build them on the KBOX before I could actually get the 521 TAB shipped to me. It takes a few tries, but after a while it’s really easy. They are a little tricky to wick, too much cotton, not enough cotton, etc. I built some Sunday, got in a hurry, changed one out before bed last night, and this morning it sucks burnt taste…but no worries, I’ll just throw it in the tupperware and put a fresh one in. You have to be careful not to pack the cotton at the juice flow holes, but get enough so it doesn’t leak. This is where a UD cotton hook comes in very handy. Speaking of juice holes, my newest Kanger topfill…the RBA that came with it, has holes half the size of all my other ones…so does the one that came with the extra topfill tank I bought, but I haven’t built them yet. I have been making 0.5ohm 24ga KA1 3mm diameter 5 wrap Been working well.
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Hi @ozo, am I correct to say that the original coils that come in the kanger RBA are supposed to be 0.5ohm? I just threw the one that came with my toptank and it’s reading 0.3ohm.
Hmmmm, I haven’t checked the new ones that came with the two Topfills…which are the ones with the little holes…
I don’t know if I still have one of the older version mini RBA plus that still has an original coil…
Gimme a few and I will check…
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@MisterSinner The RBA’s that came with the two Topfill’s read 0.29ohms The RBA’s that I bought, and are the same as the ones that came with the SubTank mini’s, read between 0.55ohms and 0.58ohms
You can see the difference in the juice holes…smaller hole (L) came with the TopFill tanks, larger hole ® came with the SubTank mini’s.
Both coils that came from factory measure 2.25mm inside diameter.
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Thank you very much @ozo Greatly appreciated. I do have the subtank as well. Never noticed the differences on the holes till you pointed it out.
The new [small] holes are also higher up the side. I didn’t compare the posts to see if that had changed.
[checked, the posts seem the same] It may take a small adjustment on wicking, compared to what I have been doing with the larger holes. Surely Kanger had a reason for the change, but my first thought was thickness of juice…
I also thought the coil diameter was weird at 2,25mm, and it looks like 22ga 5 wraps ,but my laser caliper reads that it is 23ga
Interesting. Thanks for the comparisons 
I only have a little Smok ohm meter (also only measures ohms to tenth, not hundredth), not a nicer building platform, I would probably just use the kbox200, more accurate meter…
I think mine are subtank mini rba plus’s so ill have to check and see, but if it takes a weird diameter and wire size i cant do it yet, i only have 2.0id, 2.5id, 3.0id etc… jig rods, nothing inbetween, and i only have 24g kanthal and 22g Ti to work with for now…
EDIT: Yea, my RBA’s have the larger holes.
No worries @mikelej14 I think Kanger has just used a proprietary size, in ID and wire gauge because they are metric to the manufacturing area…they are metric in their approach so to say. I have built on these Kanger RBA’s for a year without special out-of-the-norm sizing or tools, with fine results.
I believe you are safer measuring with the KBOX 200 than the Smok [never had a Smok to test against] BUT, for shits and giggles, my KBOX 50W [both of them] and my KBOX 75W TC read the same ohms on the coils I have compared, but the CM 521 TAB reads them more accurate…and closer to the $600 Fluke reads.
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