Using this eclipse rta on the foxy one mod for about a week and must say its been pretty good as a new coil builder. I got some premade coils, and the thing I am trying to figure out is the coil ohms are reading low.
The coilology jugernaught says its nickle and .36ohms, but after installing and using wattage mode, its reading .2-.23. Its vaping and working but is it not good to use it if its reading is so far off? Its happened to different types of coils too, reading is lower than advertised.
I would first look at your coil connections to the RTA. Post screws tightened, no wobbly coils, nothing touching that shouldn’t be. After that I would look at the 510 pin and the connection to the mod. Check if any juice has gotten down in there. Maybe someone else can add to this…Good luck.
Is the coil a Clapton or wrapped coil? If so, check that some of the wrap hasn’t come unwound and is possibly touching the deck, or that a piece of cut leg from the coil isn’t floating around there making contact with stuff it shouldn’t.
Also you mentioned that this is nickel wire? If it’s Ni200, that should only be used in a temp controlled device and only in the TC setting for that type of wire. Titanium and Nickel NI200 should not be used in wattage mode. The Foxy One is not a TC mod.
As TZ mentioned above, also check that the 510 pin is secure and not wobbly or loose.
just read something that ni80 is ok with power mode. Ive checked all pins and what you both mentioned and its setup just fine. Its vaping great. Just wanted to see if its safe to vape from a coil thats off by .12 ohms cause the range is +/- .05
You should be OK then. I would recommend a good ohm-meter. It helps when trying to figure out if it’s the coil or the other hardware. They come in real handy if you start making your own coils too.
cool thanks, I did pick up the coil master 521 tab mini v2 coil tester. It was reading the same low ohms as when on the mod. Would cutting the coil post legs too short lower the number? or does the ohm number come from how many wraps it has?
Leg length can affect your overall resistance as well as the number of wraps, inner diameter etc. If you want to go further into it, you could take a reading on your meter with everything assembled, then put the deck only into your ohm meter and see if there’s a big difference. If there isn’t then you should be ok (assuming there are no stray strands or the coil isn’t touching the deck) if there is a difference, the coil may be touching the interior walls/top of the chamber. Also, remember the rated resistance is for the coil as it came in the package. If you added or removed a wrap to get it to fit the deck, that will change the resistance value. Hope I explained it well enough and didn’t lose you.
Oh yeah, another thing to look for is the possibility that the package resistance info could be wrong to begin with. It happens.
I tend to make my own coils so the resulting ohms is usually what I expect. However when building with mesh that I have purchased I notice the ohms as printed on the packaging…say 0.15, is often not what my 521 Tab or my mod (DNA based) tell me. And like you said…it’s working fine so nothing to fret about.
You will be fine. There is a margin of error in all pre manufactured coils. ID may be different than stated, leg length may be different, there are many variables that can change. .12 is miniscule and expected from any coil.