so do you think the BFT can be run on the NC? would you recommend one of those heatsinks? with the center pin unscrewed all the way? i have no experience in this part of vaping, but i so wanna get this under my belt! i havent convinced myself to spend that kind of money on a PWM. i do own a cherry bomber that has a swith for parallel or series…what about that? in series? to get the experience? any thoughts?
I don’t really know anything about the heatsinks or the cherry bomber mods , I haven’t owned either.I wouldn’t run it on a noisy cricket though, not because I know it is unsafe but because I am afraid that it could be.Honestly I think the BFT could be safely ran on the cricket , it seems to have a good solid copper pin that protrudes enough to make a good solid contact.I assume they are all made as the one I have.
I just hate to be responsible for getting a good man hurt because of something I posted.
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gotcha brother…these types of hesitation is what has kept me from recklessly just slapping something on a cricket!
I need to tear the BFT down to the base.I will find out if it is safe to run on the NC next time I build it.
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I did find the video you mentioned about the heat sink at least.Interesting and I do understand how having an adjustable 510 would make it safe and I would guess the heat sink will help a bunch.I wish he would have talked more about the build.I think that will be the hard part to figure out what build to get the vape you want.That is why I switched to VV/VW mods to begin with ,greatest invention since sliced bread IMO.I can have the same great vape all day every day.
I read the comments below the video , one guy posted about the BFT’s 510 pin protruding well enough below the tank to work.His reply is yes but it is too wide to work ? WTF ? I am looking and I see no reason why it won’t work and nothing that is too wide.
I always thought that it was a pretty easy concept to understand , hybrid simply means you have to ensure that you atty’s 510 protruded enough that only it can touch the battery.You also need to make sure that the insulator between your 510 pin and the base of your atty was in good shape.
I was taught that it was that simple and that is what I have always used with no problems? I don’t know if I have just been lucky or if this guy knows to use the heat sink because that is what he was told.
Sounds like a job for MythBusters!
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well, i have 2 heat sinks, if thats whats needed. and i have a ton of tanks and RDA’s. what gauge do you recommend to keep the ohms up there? what kinds of builds do you use on the NC or the PWM?
I have used from .500 claptons up to 1.2 nichrome 80 on the NC.It depends on what I am wanting at the time.I try and stay around .800 , nice and warm but not too rowdy.Most prefer the .400-.600 range.
The PWM I just make sure that I stay above .260 .
If building the BFT ,I would try for a .625 at first.I think it could wick it just fine but I am not sure how fast the tank would heat up.
what gauge do you use?
EDIT: i just realized…is that the gauge, the .500 and the 1.2?
what country do you hail from?
The .500 and the 1.20 is the Ohms.As far as gauge on the BFT ,I now am using a 26X2 with a 32 wrap 316 SS fused clapton , the wire shown in the eBay link.The ohms will be too low in the .250 range, that would be way too hot for the N.C. both in vape and in watts.
The only wire I have suitable is Kanthal or NiChrome 80 on the N.C. In theory any build you like on your RDA that you are currently using on the Noisy Cricket is what you should shoot for in the BFT.I mostly use a kanthal clapton of varying gauges or use the NiChrome 80 from Lightning Vapes in 28 ga.
This is biggest reason for the question seen many times “why should anyone want to put a tank on a N.C”. The vape is going to be determined by your build and your batteries.With no way to adjust the power output, our vape is what it is and it is going to change for every vape thereafter as your voltage in your batteries drop.
I do get it that the taboo aspect of putting a tank on a N.C. has a street cred kind of cool factor but IMO that is all it has to offer.Our Dna200’s , PWM’s ,and other mods will not only produce the same power as the N.C.but it will adjust to make it a much better vape, of course as always IMO.
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Update! Vapor World now has them back in Stock, both ss and the black/gray versions! I ordered two in black last night and now the waiting game begins… Btw as of last night they have a little over a thousand in stock…
https://www.vaporworld.biz/mods/ohmega-alpha-30mm-bft-tank/
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3fvape has the VCMT 30mm and the 25mm in clones on their website…for $24 and $19 respectively…how cool is that??
if anybody orders, lemme knnow how the quality is
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I am posting a pic on vape mail for the VCMT 25 clone I received from 3fvape…it’s a looker!!
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I revisited my Alpha BFT after a few weeks. I forgot why it wasn’t getting much use until I filled it and took a toke. Then it came back to me real fast… too much airflow. I started brainstorming and the Aromamizer came to mind. Now I can modify the airflow and it’s giving me some great flavor.
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Many thanks @Pro_Vapes! That also beats the thumb and forefinger method of closing the airflow while filling!
Why didn’t I think of that!
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It’s really weird that they would build a tank this good with no AFC.
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I agree , it really is a nice tank and a better tank as far as flavor than the VCMT 30MM IMO.I can only hope in the version 2,3, and sometimes 4 world we live in they will correct it.
Got some bands ordered. Thanks again for the tip!
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brilliant! thanks for the brains!
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I got my vape bands in and it worked great for adjusting the airflow.
My bands were too tight to spin though when filling.I then tried the spare Aromamizer bands with the two holes and it works perfectly for me on airflow.It restricts it perfectly for my style and the ridges make it easy to not only adjust but also to close the air off completely when I fill the tank.
Great tip @Pro_Vapes !
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I love this tank…I got the 30mm, but don’t care for the phillips grub screws. Does anyone know the size and thread count, so I can look for allen screws? Thx
I ordered mine from grainger…
Hex socket cup point (NO. 4-48X1/8) I’d look for 3/16 if I had to do it again to make them just a little bit longer…
I can’t remember but you have to order 50 or 100 of them to a package… Well worth it though! Think it cost me $10 or 15…hope this helps!
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