I go between SS316L and Ni80 in my coils and both give me great flavor. SS316L can be springy and from what i have heard SS304 is a lot more springy.
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Better in what way?
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See above in my edit.
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I know this confuses me to no end, I have a lot of experience in glass working more particular torch work. we used 316 stainless as mandrels and punts, specifically because the heat transfer was considerably slower than other metals available. Now I am real confused. No argument with either side now I got to wade through metal coefficients for hours, y’all are gonna vaporize my brain
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I disagree. 316L has more nickel in it and in my experience it is more springy than 304. I use both and feel that 304 is easier to work with. Also, neither of them are really very springy when you get down to 24 gauge or below. It is really only 26 gauge and up that are a little difficult to work with.
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no confusion 
- we’re specifically comparing SS vs Kanthal (can add Ni80 as well to the bunch)
to give example, if I build 3 coils same gauge, ID and same # wraps of each of these, install in atty and apply the same wattage, the SS would be the one that heats fastest and cools fastest (will have the lowest resistance), then the Ni80, then the Kanthal
SS heat transfer coef. vs other metals, say, aluminum or copper is a different story - or even Ti and Ni.
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Guessing this is the issue?? Looks like the lead is just to the side of the screw instead of in the middle… not sure if you can make it by my pic… can only get so close with my phone lol
Every time I fire it the ohms go up by around .02 then back down and back up… on two different mods also… talk about a hot hit from hell… ouch…
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no, shouldn’t make a difference. what mode are you using? TC or VW/power? can you share some pics of the mod display - also a view of the coil from top?
did you check the contact between the tank and the 510? is the 510 pin sitting properly in the mod - see @woftam’s response above.
also make sure your wick doesn’t have any loose threads flying around inside the chamber - yes, this makes a difference in TC
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I would have to wait until I’m home to mess with the 510… just sitting in my car on lunch ATM
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I believe there’s a slight miscommunication about resistance and ramp time. From my understanding more resistance will equal less heat up/cool down time. Higher resistance will get hotter, faster using the same power.
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Yea! Woohoo! Shizam! Goooolllleeee! We done found the source O da confusion!
Yes! Per @TheFlavorSeeker if you take two pieces of wire exactly the same length one being stainless the other being kanthal the stainless will heat up faster!
The other perspective is that if you take two coils both at .5Ω one being stainless the other being kanthal, the kanthal will heat up a lot faster. Obviously the stainless coil will be a lot longer.
Hot digity dog! We have harmony in ELR heaven once more! From now on I only comment on mixing drunk, give me free shit, and sex jokes. I’m learning!
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love the way you summed it up… thank you!
(and apologies if i confused any one. tricky topic!)
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lol, Not sure who did the confusing but once you mentioned equal length the light came on for me. It always amazes me the number of ways much of this can be viewed. Really cool though. And I can’t agree more. Two things about vaping are very entailed. One being the whole temperature coefficient evaluation and the other being constant velocity in gasses or airflow. Either can drive one nuts.
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Ive been using SS316 for about a year now. I find the flavor better from my juice by using SS. I started while I was doing RTA’s and drippers but now one of my favorite “take to work” tanks is the Crown’s (all versions, currently the Crown 3) because they use SS for their coils. I’ve given my rolls of Kanthal wire away because I’ve been spoiled by the better flavor and ease of use and that Kanthal now tastes “harsher” to me.
When I want to drip, I make my coils the same way as Kanthal - roll 'em - get them in the “whatever” - lightly glow and strum them to remove an contaminates - wick them - good to go!!!
I sometimes use TC but mostly I just use wattage on my DNA200’s
I prefer 24 or 26 gauge wire with enough wraps to get somewhere around .1 to .2 Ohms.
Hope this helps.
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I decided to test it for myself just now. I took 26g kanthal and 26g ss. Made 2 identical coils… 2.5mm ID, 8 turns. The ss coil takes nearly twice as long to glow red as the kanthal coil. I even switched the mods I was using and same result
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good exercise. did you set the same wattage (sorry) between the change of coils ?
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Yes I kept them low at 15watts so I could see the difference easily. They were done side by side on 2 different devises. They I switched them up to rule out 1 setup firing faster
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Interesting. i don’t know at what temp each of these wires/metals will glow red. when i simulate this exercise on Steam Engine for ID 2.5mm, 8 wraps, and 15 watts, the heat capacity (mJ/K) for these coils are (added the links for you to double-check)
K1: ~36.7
SS316: 44.7
SS produces more heat for same coil resistance (corrected, thanks to Gambit). that’s also my own experience …
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