@Pugs1970 you are absolutely right.
Just because you won the lottery, and can now afford a Aventador, does not mean
you are qualified to safely drive one…even at regular speeds.
Maybe the greatest flavor I have had comes from the Pro Vapes Deep Water build,
but there is more to it than twisting some wire and screwing it down.
Just because I CAN build down LOOOOOW doesn’t mean that’s what I always vape,
most of it is testing…seeing if it can be done, but you must have the proper and safe
capacities to do so, including the little short distance of major concern, the distance
between your ears.
A very, very good vape can be easily achieved with dual 316L at .22ohms, and on so
many devices available today. But you can do the same thing at .5ohm-.6ohm.
And, on the right [and so many available] device(s), it is really easy to do, Then, you
work on perfecting your wicking skills. The coils are the easy part.
The best way I can explain it to you is:
First, you have to decide which mod and atty you will build for. Is it for MTL or DTL?
Build for a Provari 2.5 has to be at least a 1.1ohm coil, and should be a single coil,
or you would have like two-one inch coils, and what is that gonna fit in? Easy to build
a single coil in a Kayfun V5 for it.
Build for a DripBox 160, use a Velocity V2 atty…easy peasy in TC or wattage. Two
simple easy .5ohm 316L coils and you can fly.
Then you log on steam-engine and input the info you want results for, change it around
until you get what you want…that will fit where you want it. Steam-Engine does all
the thinking for you. You simply have to make sure you follow correctly.
I suggest you using a Coil-Master coil jig V3 or V4 because they are the best, and
so easy to use. Clockwise, counter-clockwise, tight, spaced, pull off a wrap-or two,…
[clapton wire on the V4]
When all of that is done, to be safe, you must have a GOOD ohm tester.
Coil-Master 521TAB is a good one. Pilot Vapes is almost identical.
Bottom line, www.steam-engine.org decides what gauge you want. Capice?
Wasn’t that