I’m pretty new to RTAs. I’ve been vaping on my Hellvape Dead rabbit 3 for about 2 weeks now. I’ve re-wicked it a few times. I clean the coils everytime I re-wick it. The coils are the ones that came with it. The coils seem slow to come up to temperature, compared to my stock Geek Vape Z with stock coils, which fires up quick and smooth. I never get a dry hit. Am I doing something wrong? Is it the coils? Is it the nature of RTAs? Am I not wicking it correctly? What gives?
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Hi @Xalky99. I cannot answer this with 100% certainty, but it sounds to me ypu may need to up the wattage a bit to get those coils up to temp a little quicker. Test it out and let us know!
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Thanks D. It’s a .17 ohms with the 2 coils and I’ve tried everything from 35 watts to 85 watts. It is a little smoother at the higher wattages but then the vapor comes out really hot, like way too hot for my lungs, and it still crackles quite a bit. I feel like I need to run it through a water pipe…like in the old days. 
It’s most comfortabe to me at around 55 watts.
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Well directly comparing full size rolled coils, to premade almost cartridges is completely different. The sheer mass of the real coils is much more, and is almost always multi core, vs. much smaller, lighter, most times mesh or honeycomb coils.
Even IF you could get comparable ohm ratings on them, the sheer mass of the larger multi core coils will always take more time to ramp up. Now, the next thing is, which tastes better ?? That’s up to you, but many people feel that the bigger, multi core coils, especially with very fine outer wraps provides much more surface area (which again takes a lot longer to heat up), produce far more vapor, and better flavor, etc.
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Follow the ohm lay
V = R * I
- V is the symbol for voltage.
- I is the symbol for current.
- R is the symbol for resistance.
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- V = Voltage (your battery voltage)
- I = Current (the amperage drawn by your coil)
- R = Resistance (the resistance, in ohms, of your coil)
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Like I said, I’m a newb. I didn’t know that the difference would be so pronounced between stock coil cartridges and full size rolled coils, but that makes a whole lotta sense. I’m not really complaining about the ramp up. I guess my main complaint is that sometimes the hot juice droplets are kind of annoying, like almost burning my lips.
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Completely understood, and THAT, is why your questions were soo good. 
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OK @Xalky99 that is another issue (probably). If you are using the “real” coils, and are getting spitting, you probably do not have enough cotton in the coils. RDA’s will magnify this issue more than RTA’s.
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Ahhh, now we’re getting somewhere. So I need to get the cotton a little bit tighter inside the coils? I’ve never had a dry hit and I have a tendency to chain vape sometimes. A tighter cotton in the coil will slow down the wicking action but perhaps make it more prone to dry hitting, I’m guessing? So what your saying is that I just need to experiment more with the cotton.
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Well experimenting will be good for sure, and MAY vary depending on the equipment, and definitely can depending on the coil structure, more or less.
Loose/looser cotton in the coils will lead to uneven juice dispersion onto the coils, and ultimately pooling. When juice pools up on the coils, it “cooks” rather than vaporize which leads to the popping/spitting.
Snug but not tight. Can still be pulled through the coils, but with some resistance. Not soo tight that it starts to deform, or pull the coil as you slide the wicks through.
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I just built the Blaze Solo 2. On first impression, I like it better than the Dead Rabbit 3 dual coil. I think I might be a single coil guy, but I’m still experimenting. The vapor coming out of the single coil Blaze is more to my liking, cooler. Maybe it’s the better airflow. Now I have to re-wick the Dead Rabbit 3 to see if it’s my wick job or perhaps I like a single coil better. The Blaze crackles but the vapor comes out fairly cool compared to the Dead Rabbit. Time to find out. Or perhaps it’s the deck design that makes such a difference.
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That’s usually wicking either too thin or too tight. I used to take a few hits and then rewick playing around with thinner or tighter wicks. Trick to playing around with getting to a good for you build/ wick is just change one single thing at a time. That includes coil height, coil size, coil placement, and wicking. Its a journey rather than a sprint; well worth it in the end. Eventually you’ll be able to look at a deck and know if it is one you’ll enjoy and you’ll have a good idea how to build and wick it.
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Sorry folks I’ve been away for a bit. One question I see no one has asked is what kind of coils are being used? How many wraps? A single wire or a wrapped coil like a Fused clapton, staple coil a twisted coil like a juggernaut. The type of coil used makes a huge difference in flavor and ramp time. Also the type of metal that the coils are made of. A kanthol coil will have a longer ramp time than say nichrome or stainless.
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If a coil is slow its not a problem of Ohms. Mostly its the fuse wire which is to thick. 36ga slows down much more than a 38ga wire. i prefer 10ga higher than the core (for eyample: 28ga core->38ga fuse wire). a lot of premade coils have a fusewire which is to thick. Background: Watts heaten the cores which heatens the fusewire, the thinner the fuse is, the faster it can be heated.
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