Would like to discuss and find out:
- folks experiences
- technical information (eg: compounds/methods)
- comparisons (vs pot-metal, zinc, aluminum, etc)
- longevity/fragility/wear durability
Basically, there’s such a wide range of compounds (all plastic) that could conceivably fall under such a generic term, that I thought it would be nice to not only get educated with more current traits and techniques (than where I left off 25+ years ago…) but possibly help others understand that there are differences between POM/Delrin/Resin/etc!
I’m curious about additional things like how brittle are they when subjected to impacts (drop, coming into abrupt contact with metal, wood, etc). Has anyone experienced separation between colors (compound materials) on aging? Color fade? Any clear coat, or just raw material exposed?
Extra special thank you for any/all technical contributions!
Sorry, no technical contribution. I will state that I don’t care for plastic. I like some weight in a mod and I like the thought of it being metal. I have plastic things that are very robust. I own numerous Pelican cases that protect my metal things, lol. But, it is what it is.
Well, that leaves me out. When I hear ‘resin’ I think bongs!
POM: Poly Oxy Methylene, thermoplastic which can be injection molded. Don’t set it on fire, the fumes are an irritant and make you cry. Should last for a long time, as far as i remember from my apprenticeship it is very good for all parts which need to be very precise and don’t shrink or expand over time. Used a lot in cars for example where you have functional moving parts
Delrin is the brand name of the POM sold by DuPont. Names of other manufacturers’ POM are Ultraform, Hostaform, Duracon etc.
Resins are usually duroplastics
Well, maybe there’s a different term for that in English. In German in the late 80s we learned that there are 3 general sorts of plastics
Thermoplasts: the stuff that gets soft when heated and “freeze” again when cooled down. Plastic bags, plastic lighters, bumpers on cars, pretty much anything mass produced plastic part like ball pens or our liquid bottles.
Duroplasts: Could be a resin, powder, granules etc. Once molded into shape the molecule chains bond and stay like they are and heating them up would destroy them. Old telephone sets, the old style levers on big electrical switches and stuff like this. Usually more durable than thermoplasts.
Elastomeres: all kinds of rubbery plastics. Can be thermoplasts or duroplasts.
This is just a general thing, I’ve learned all this in the 80s and there are thousands of new materials where the line between what is a duroplast and a thermoplast may be blurred. I logged out of this business almost 15 years ago when my theoretical knowledge was outdated already.
This was pretty informative.
A great watch for complete newbies, and I’d even go so far as to recommend popping that into the beginner’s thread (as it nicely covers the basics that anyone starting out should see)!
Unfortunately, not really anything on the technical side… Still, a nice addition!
I never had the feeling i had to change my drip tips. For my mtl i use stainless steel ones, i like the cool metal. Same with the Crown 1 which also has an ss drip tip.
Apart from how it feels I can’t really see the advantage of one material over another. A hard, non-reactive surface shouldn’t have any influence on the taste. The only thing would be the shape. The size of the hole and if it is straight or tapered will change the way the vapor flows so this could improve the flavor (or make it worse?).
With my e-pipe i found out that a very long stem increased the throat hit to a degree that I’m now using my 3mg 70% VG juice instead of my 65%PG 8mg mtl liquid with an Aspire triton mini mtl.
So that’s why i never looked into drip tips so much. Yes, some of them are pretty but… brushed stainless steel isn’t ugly either.
I had the exact opposite experience, and right out of the gate. That was the first thing I had to address when I got the Theorem.
The one that came with it was a “triple fail”.
One was the fact that it was a very short top. Lips are way too close to the heated surface which almost guarantees that you’re going to burn them.
Two was the use of glass on the mouthpiece. Not only uncomfortable feeling against the teeth (on the rare instance of contact), but also a safety risk IMO (due to the fact that usually those rare instances of contact with the teeth were while driving and hitting a bump. Hit a major bump while vaping and whammo! Mouth full of glass.)
Third was relatively minor by comparison, heat still transfers through the stainless (through the top of the tank, to the mouthpiece) if the tip is fully seated.
I prefer delrin or pom because of the insulating properties (from the tank/rda/etc). But agreed, should have no effect on flavor.
This was my biggest reason for going to friction-fit (also referred to as o-ringless on some sites).All of the friction fit I’ve seen had no taper on the inside diameter (from bottom to top)!!
The fact that it stayed within the 510 spec, and had no taper, meant that in almost every case, the ID was larger than any other “normal 510” drip tip. In each tank I’ve tested it on, flavor was noticeably improved. Anecdotal at best, but that’s my experience!
I have two “fully resin” tanks
All visible external surfaces coated with resin.
I don’t observe any negative factors.
Both tanks are designed for DL mode, however I prefer MTL
Therefore, I use it rarely and as a decoration of my collection .