My application for this wire is for non TC mods. Maybe that’s why? I have a DNA40 Hana box I could try but I’m thinking it’d be the same results for me taste wise.
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The Ti wire burns so hot it may mute flavors when it’s regulated by TC. I noticed a big difference in the flavor once I put in a TC mod.
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Then I has some experimenting to do! 
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I do know what you’re saying about the Crown and SS. When I first tried it I was blown away by it. Uwell did it right.
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Ok so I’m using the Lemo 2 with a 0.25 ohm Ti build at 440F running 33.0 watts. Noticeable difference in TC than non. I think you might be on to something here.
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I’m using the Billow 2 today myself with a super subohm build. The flavor is amazing. It’s a great tank.
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The Ss fa Tory coils from unwell are amazing in wattage mode I’ll definitely say that.
. BUT:
titanium is the king of temperature control,h dd down my favorite.
However I’ve it tried stainless in t.c. modern to compare.
I used to want a lemon 2 until I got the Crown tank.
Everyone likes variety but I was seriously think I g today about finding the best deal I can on a Crown tank & rba, then buying 3 more.
One for each mod…
Pro_vapes, am I missing anything from the lemon that the Crown doesn’t deliver? Hmmmm
I don’t think you are. Its a well rounded tank that works well.
EDIT: I don’t think it gives the best flavor.
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Right on so you would go for a couple of crown tanks if given prior oportunity?
I bought my 1st Crown in early June. I later bought the Lemo 2 and the Billow 2. I have the Billow 2 pictured above. I mistakenly commented on it as Lemo 2 which is my least favorite. It’s a single coil tank… in my opinion it’s not good on flavor. A lot of people love it though.
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So many sub-ohm tanks come out & have updated features, but as of now from my reading & understanding of people that own the Uwell Crown tank, they all seem to prefer it over their other sub tanks.
For me once I get the leaking issue of the rba section figured out (needs better o-ring), it only leaks a lil under a ml. When filling from the top, after that it doesn’t leak anymore after that lil amount.
I emailed Crown & never got a response , so I believe I’m going to see if I can find a better o-ring & try it out,simply because I believe that’s the only issue I can find in a near perfect design.
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Did you get extra o-rings with your tank? I know I got extras.
Yes I got extras but they are obviously the same size I’ve thought about trying 2 at a time, if they wernt silicon I’d buy some from a hardware store.
Reason being they really need to be thicker o.d.
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I’d like to take a crack at this but I’ve been sippin’ the adult beverages, so if I’m heading down the wrong track… reel me in, mmmk?
I’ll use made up temps and I’m looking at Ni as I don’t have any Ti but the concept should be the same. Here we go…
The chips know little for sure… the res that you tell it is resting temp, and the res/temp curves programmed for the specified metal.
If you mount a 0.15 coil and firing it the res rises to 0.4, the chip calculates that the coil temp has reached 500F (<- made up number) and if that is what you set, will modulate power to maintain that maximum.
But if you “relock” that 0.15 coil at 0.2, when it rises to 0.4 the chip sees a smaller change, calculates a lower temp and continues to apply power until reaching what the “new” res calculation tells it would be 500F. Undoubtedly taking your actual temp over what you had set.
It’s not a matter of “more power”, it’s a matter of the calculation’s starting point being off.
Yes?
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Sounds good to me. But for certain if its vaping hotter than before, I’m pretty sure it’s a power increase. If there was no power increase wouldn’t still vape the same. More power = more heat or is something wrong my math.
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It doesn’t care about the power (to a point), the watts is the gas pedal, the set temp limit is the set top speed. Even a slow acceleration will eventually reach top speed.
It cares about the calculated temp of the coil and whether it has reached that temp. If the calculations are wrong, on the low side, it will keep applying power until it thinks it has reached that set temp.
I’ve just tried this on 3 TCs.
The D2 wants to “remember” the actual res, it appears to keep reseting to that even after I’ve “tricked” it. Needs more tests to be sure.
The iStick 40TC doesn’t show “real time” res changes, so there’s no way to “trick” it.
The Sig75 on the other hand… shows the changed res if I do the “set” keypress and allows me to “relock” at that new res.
This is obviously quick testing with a warmed tank (Nano) so perceived differences may be the Vodka. 
eta: And I really wanted this to work on the 40TC as it’s known to need higher temp settings. Well, what the hell does everyone expect for $25. 
I’m in no condition to give deep thought to what a reg mod is actually doing in power mode, but…
If I stop thinking about my idea (because I’m partially right) and consider your “more power” idea, I think you’ve got part of it as well.
The mod doesn’t really apply watts. It looks at the res and the desired wattage setting and calculates the voltage needed to produce those watts. If this intentional mis-setting of the res is working, the mod is applying more volts than it should therefore…???
That’s what I’m saying.
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Yes, even if that means it has overshot the IRL set temp.
I just had another aneurism playing with the Sig.
In TC mode, with the res set properly… increasing the watt setting does not increase the applied voltage. But increasing the temp limit setting does… significantly.
WTF?
When I fire my IPV4 the voltage jumps up and down to regulate the temp. It doesn’t show the wattage so I don’t know what happens there.
It takes more volts to fire low res coils. He set it at a higher res than actual and received a warmer vape. That’s what confused me.