From what I’ve experienced it is an erratic resistance that causes the jump from TC mode to Watts mode. I’ll make an assumption or guess that your individual coils of your build are partulally shorted. And you fire them, a little oxide is being created at that hot spot and insulating that hot spot out this would cause your resistance to jump thus causing the Mod to change to watt mode from TC mode. From what I’ve read, its fine to dry fire titanium at very low wattage to a Blue color as long as NO white powder is formed on the surface. That blue helps insulate out hot spots and allows for a stable resistance. (Jury is still out on this and I avoid it myself) Imstead I wrap my Ti coils as contact coils and pull the coils apart a tiny bit to what you could call a micro spaced coil. After a dozen or so vape I’ll recheck the screws securing the coils to make sure they are tight. Because I also found out that loose screws also cause that jump from TC mode into watts mode.
@Pro_Vapes already wraps contact - then spaces them, and very beautifully, I might add 
I’ve only experienced it jumping from TC to VW on SS-coils - then I switch it to TC again, and then (or after one or two times more), it stays in TC…
What you mention sounds correct though - something makes the coil “unstable” for a while, creating too big resistance-fluctuations…
I see that now, Sorry, the dangers of replying to an old message without reading all the message first. Me bad, Oh well no harm no foul, right. 99% of the time when I get the jumping into watts mode from temp mode its because my screws securring the coils have loosened up a bit.
I’m getting none of that you’ve mentioned
I’m just getting in to this. Great info Just wanted to say Thank Ya Thank Ya very much . All of you
Hey guys, I just recently got hold of a rather large stash of grade 1 Ti jewelers laser welding wire…it is very unlike the other Ti I have purchased. First, it is immaculately clean…shiny and when wiped with alcohol it leaves NO residue at all.
Second, it is more compliant and flexible than kanthal, and I don’t mean by a little bit…it’s like annealed copper, really soft. It’s been a joy to use thus far and I got it for next to nothing. Can’t say how, but yall is smart.
What mod can you switch between ti and ni200
Where did you obtain such a wire?
Wireandstuff.co.uk for ti,ss and everything inbetween 
Wonder how much shipping to the us would be
Don’t know off hand. Mabey ebay if not!
I’m calling bullshit! 
There are several nowadays. I’m sure @Pro_Vapes (who you asked anyway) can name some. I do know though-
Joyetech eVic VT 60w and Mini
xCube II
IPV4
Also from what I hear, TC mods with Ni support but not Ti can use Ti you just have to lower the temperature compared to nickel. I’ve heard between 100 - 150F lower, but I’ve not done it myself.
I’ll add IPV3 Li with the software upgrade to that list too. At least that’s what I’m using.
Aw, what if I said I got it from a large Spanish river of titanium that feeds a certain industry. waaaiiiiink
IPV3 li with no software upgrade will do it too. I haven’t even bothered. It works no matter how stupid you are. Just vapes great. The problem is I still really like the TFV4 tank.
About the only issue I have had is wicking, it seems to gunk quickly and burns the crap out of my cotton
OK need input I have been using titanium on my ipv4 with up Date and my ipv4 s temperature control works great love it but now I am running in to a problem of chimney building up with a tare like resado on any juice so last night switch back to kanthal noticed better flavor right of the get go and battery life going down hill quick I can get a full day with temperature but 5 hours or 10 mils of juice my builds range from A1 .3
.06 up to .18 I run 34 /40 j at 440 490 degrees my ipv4 is much hotter than my ipv4s the build up problem is gone using kanthal vapor 38 watts on .3 any help or thoughts I miss my battery run time and now I got to keep a eye on juice level something I have never done a very good job of