What do you guys think would be a good first sub ohm setup?

I have not gone to sub ohms yet. To tell you the truth I have been a little scared with all of the hype about it possibly blowing up. I may be misinformed about this though. I have really been thinking about and researching the cool fire iv with the isub tank from innokin. Does anyone have this setup and if so what do you think about it? I have been vaping for about 1 1/2 years and think it is time to switch to sub ohms. Also, I like the fact that I can still just switch a coil on the isub instead of having to build my own…I don’t think I am ready for that yet.

if your gonna spend the $ the ipv4s and a crown or tfv4 tank on top is the best bang for the $ rt now IMO both tanks have a good selection of pre-made coils…

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Thanks @quitter1! I really am just lost on what to get…although I did find a great deal on the cool fire iv and isub setup for $43 and some change…I thought it sounded like a good first setup and I know that innokin is reputable for good products…or am I wrong on that?

In all honesty, sub-ohm vaping is all hype to some people, while to others it is their preferred method of vaping. Sub-ohming was created to increase vapor production while using mechanical mods. It was really the only way of doing so with fixed battery voltages, and can be done safely as long as you don’t exceed your battery’s discharge ratings. In this day and age of regulated vv/vw devices, sub-ohming is (in my opinion) no longer necessary in order to achieve vapor/flavor increases. With the advent of temperature control, builds using Ni200, stainless steel and other metals will generally run at a resistance of .1 - .2 ohms, but I’m not sure this is considered sub-ohming in the traditional sense, since the actual resistance is rather immaterial. I’ve used Aspire Nautilus tanks at 1.2 - 2.0 ohms (depending how I rebuild the stock coils), Kanger Subtank Minis at .4 - 1.8 ohms, and Kayfun style tanks at 1.0 - 2.0 ohms. My personal preference is the Kayfun at about 1.2 - 1.4 ohms for my sweet spot of vapor/flavor production. Sure, you won’t be cloud-chasing with a Kayfun, but I’m not in it for that. I had my fun with the Subtank Mini when I first tried sub-ohming and it was great for what it was, but I’m a dyed-in-the-wool mouth-to-lunger for whom direct lung hits just don’t give me what I want out of vaping; a calm relaxing experience. Traditional sub-ohming to me is too much of a “rush to inhale” for me to enjoy it all that much. It’s really personal preference, and until you try both ways, you won’t know what you prefer. As far as bang for the buck, an iStick 50w and a Kanger Subtank mini is a relatively inexpensive way to try your hand at sub-ohming, but if you do decide to go that route, I wouldn’t go over 6mg nic since the increased vapor of sub-ohm builds delivers far more nic than higher resistances.

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I currently am only at 3mg of nic…I just moved down from 6mg…I am currently using a 20W istick with a 1.6 ohm nautilus mini and I enjoy it but I wanted something more powerful and would like to try sub ohming. Thank you for all of your advise and taking the time to respond.

I use an iStick 50 and an iPV2s with an Aspire Atlantis and Herakles tanks. They work well for me and I would recommend either set up. Both are simple and replacement coils are easy to obtain and pretty inexpensive.

once I bought my first sub device, I fell in love with vaping all over again. ive bought many different devices from various brands, but im still no expert. ive wasted so much money…ugh!
my first sub was the aspire cf which vapes at about 40 watts. however, I quickly out grew that and wanted higher wattage. I went through several and even had 2 stolen!
anyway, I finally found the ipv devices by pioneer 4 you. now im finally happy with the exception that I still need to upgrade my tank. ive been told by many people that the Seigeleis (not sure on spelling) are great also.
I use the IPV mini2 70watts. there is a great site wakeandvape.com their prices cant be beat! ive ordered from them many times and their customer service is exceptional as well as shipping. my ipv with a battery and 2 skins was $67 after shipping. they also sell the segelei brand, in fact they only sell high quality products, no junk. their blog is also very helpful when deciding on a sub device and there are coupon codes listed on the blogs. if you have a question they respond quickly.
Im sure it sounds like I work for them but I swear I don’t. its just unbelievable how much lower their prices are and everything is authentic.

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I bought my first sub 0hm tank ((standard size Kanger subtank) tried it for about an hour and hated it… gave it to my step-daughter. About 2 or 3 weeks later while in Boston decided I wanted to try the sub 0hm thing again and went and bought the subtank mini, played around with it a bit and finally learned a bit more about wattage and coils, wish I never gave her the other tank lol… not really, she hasn’t put it down, I’m happy she likes it.

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My last purchase of a sub ohm tank was to buy a second Joyetech Delta II. I fell in love with my first one and got a second about a month later. Been using them for…well maybe six months now?

I love them and have had equally enjoyable experiences across all my sub-ohm-capable VW devices as well as mech mods. So if I were to recommend anything I would buy the iStick 50w with a Delta II. The tank comes with 2 attys but you can buy a rebuild deck as well. I only have one of the decks but it does a great job and not as much air flow loss as with the Kanger Subtank rebuild deck.

I would caution you though. Joyetech came out with some attys for these things that use nichrome coils. I bought a 5 pack and installed one in the store. I think they may be more for the DNA devices but I’m not sure. I don’t care for them.

Good luck.

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Howdy @SunnyT… I have an innokin mvp3.0 & the isub g. Ive been using them now for about 3 months. With regards to the mod, it was pretty much a coin-toss between the mvp & the cool fire iv. The cool fire is a great looking mod with some good features & its got an extra 10 watts over the mvp, however I went with the mvp for 2 reasons - firstly…battery life. cool fire - 2000mAh Vs 3800mAh from the mvp. If Im not using the isub (my other tanks are Nautilus mini’s) I can easily get 2.5+ days between charges. And secondly, the mvp has the ability to charge other USB devices, like your phone - an excellent feature (which has saved my bacon!.. yep, its a long story). The mvp is a bit of a brick though & definitely not the lightest mod on the market, but its tough & reliable etc. I’m very happy with it.
The isub however is a slightly different story… Its the only sub tank I’ve experienced so my knowledge here is limited to say the least. I got it because it was cheap & I saw a couple of good reviews. I was looking for an ‘entry-level’ device & thats exactly what I got. I cant say its a bad tank, but knowing what I know now, I wouldnt buy an iSub. I’ve always thought the flavor from this tank seemed muted, & with some juice, seemed to have a metalish, steely kind of taste. My thoughts have since been confirmed by talking with others here at ELR… yep, muted flavor & ‘metalish’ - apparently this ‘metalish’ flavor is caused by the kanthal coils, & they are the only coils you can get for this tank. Stainless steel or titanium coils are the way to go for true flavor so I’m told, but opinions may vary on that. That said, I think my next tank will probably be a Crown…with stainless steel coils. Not sure what my next mod going to be but I’ve heard good things said about the iStick 50.

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There are many reliable sub ohm tanks that you can also get +ohm coils for. I like the Aspire Atlantis as it was my first sub ohm tank and I keep going back to it like an old friend. Paired with a reliable mod like the iStick 50w, its a great combination. The Atlantis can also be had for decent prices now.

I figured out that I could wrap a coil out of a piece of wire and a screw driver pretty easily. Once I figured that out it became a matter of what worked for me better …my secret identity is captain flavor changer…lol. Needless to say I am a big fan of drippers. Watch ripp trippers vids on YouTube.he’s a Lil silly but he’s great for teaching the basics of coil making.

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I made some comments about Rip recently. Truthfully it was just to see what kind of reaction I would get. Rip gets on my nerves because he acts goofy as if it makes him more interesting or amusing to watch but in fact it’s more like watching a tweaker who was the only eye witness to a car crash. But you’re right. Some of his coil building videos are great. He’s got good camera work and gets up really close so for people who aren’t very comfortable working on coils his videos could be a great help to a beginner. Here’s a good one for beginners -

Ok Rip, I finally said something nice about you. Now piss off :slight_smile:

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Yeah you can tell he’s either high as hell or dingy . either way if he can do it . captain smooth dude (me) can do it …lol

@SunnyT - I have only been vaping a few months. I went from an iStick 20w and an Aspire Nautilus to an iStick 30w and an Atlantis tank in just a couple weeks. My buddy had the Kanger starter kit and every time I vaped it I was so jealous. Being a noob I let the local vape shop talk me into my second setup instead of the Kanger setup.

A week or so later I bought the Kanger Sub-Tank mini and delved into coil building. I have worked with wire scultures of trees and such for years. So coil building came natural to me. It wasn’t long after building my first Clapton coil that I built a Staggered Fused Clapton for my Sub-Tank. That’s when I realized “most” of the pre-built coils weren’t all that good.

Since then I have bought a Sigelei 150w, a Cherry Bomber, a Goliath tank, a Crown tank, another Sub-Tank Mini, and the rba deck for the Crown. I haven’t used a pre-built coil since the Atlantis. Building Clapton coils is really easy to do. So don’t be hesitant to try sub-ohm and a rebuildable deck. Like I said, I haven’t been at it that long. But each time I build a coil it’s heaven vaping on it for the first time. A pre-built coil has yet to give me that kind of vape.

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yup … you my friend are addicted. don’t feel too bad though. so am I. lol

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I used an ego for a few years and finally upgraded to the IPV D2 with a matching black crown tank. WOW what a difference! This mod also has TC which can be used with the nickle coil included with the CROWN tank. I’m pretty dang happy with my set up and got a great deal from ecigavenue.com including free shipping. The 0.5 ohm coil is pretty sweet and even tried the 0.25 but it gulped juice like crazy. I can also pick up Crown’s 1.2 ohm coils if I decide to go up in resistance. All in all, great combo with plenty of flexibility.

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Something to think about tbt, hot builds (sub ohms), in my experience are actually better for fruity vapes and not so much better for creams. Aspire Atlantis makes some pretty hot heads coming in at around 0.5-0.6ohm. Turn n burn setups. Don’t know about your coil building experience or desire, but it’s not needed with these setups. There’s nothing wrong with running hot builds, but like the posters above said, learn yourself to be more smarter than electricity and you’ll be good. Higher VG juices, (read coil gunkers) are better on hot builds than cold ones.

It all depends on what you’re vaping to be honest with you. Different tempatures, (ohms), will also have quite a dramatic effect on the flavor profile of juices as well. You won’t really know if you like running hot, until you’ve tried it.

Be careful.

ps. Rip Trippers is annoying as hell to watch. If you can sit through his ridiculous diatribe of nonsensical bs, you may pick something up, but there’s many others out there who are talking and actually saying something. Meaning, you won’t waste 45min of your life, gleaming 2 minutes of intel.

I have a kangertech sub tank. As far as sub tanks. Its the only one i have found that has good airflow and won’t leak at all. You can get 0.5. Or build a 0.2. But all my mods are OG republic mods. A few box mods. But i always go to my OG mods.