No it’s not meant to be a challenge but I would love to have one 
And I think @ozo would too
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I’m in the US.
I found a site that sells blanks specifically for Box Mods. I ordered one so I could at least have something to look at and play with. They are not cheap, lol…
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How much are they buying them directly from Sunbox ? Just guessing but unless @Whiterose0818 already has a Provari laying around they would be cheaper from Sunbox.
If you are interested in building a couple ,I do have a Provari that I will send you to play with.
The problem is the 510 on the Skynet is for a 16mm RDA ( Old School ) I want one that I can put any RDA on it
It would be cool if you can send it to @Whiterose0818 so he could line up the Fire button Right
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So how expensive are the ones from Sunbox that are wrong? Don’t mis understand me as I would be interested as well but IMO it would be an expensive PIA to build .
Check out this video Todd takes it all apart
I Like the wood one ( does not have to be Stabilized Wood )
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Well, I just finished my latest build, also my smallest box mod build to date. This one is a Smart PWM v2.2 in a 1590a+ case. Really tight fit. Dual 18650s, on a staggered sled. Had to put the fire button and potentiometer on the back of the case, mounted behind the high side of the staggered sled.
The first pic is the inside, showing the sled, which holds 2 18650s, giving you an idea of how small it is. Which leads me to the second part of this post…some of you have questioned me on the size of these boxes, and some of you have even mentioned that you thought these things are big. So I took some pix for comparison…
From right to left: 1590a+, 1590g tall, 1590g+ and 1590b. The 1590b, due to its size, I only build with lipos…good size lipos. Like 1500mAh. The g+ and g tall I can do either dual 18650 or lipo in. The a+ I’ve only done the dual 18650 in, but I’ve seen people drop lipos in them.
More pix for comparison:
18650s for scale.
In this next pix, the same cases, but with an ipv4s and an ipv5 for scale:
And in this one, lipos and battery configurations from the inside:
From left to right: g tall with lipo, g+ with lipo, a+ with dual 18650s, and g tall with dual 18650s.
All capable of delivering over 200w each!
Alright, my head hurts…I’m outtie!
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That is my problem ,I am certain it would cost more for wood so we are talking $150.00 plus you have to buy a Provari.
Myself I had rather put the $150.00 towards a 75DNA board bottom feeder.
I think if we get a few others involved we could possibly talk @Whiterose0818 into making a few of those!
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Love the size of those brother , very nice!
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at the bottom of the red one is that a gauge for watts or something ???
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Are you talking about the small dial at the bottom ? I have included a picture of the one on mine.If so that is the adjustment dial.On your mod @fidalgo_vapes you have the slide adjustment to adjust the power at the atty. On mine and some of the others @Whiterose0818 uses the dial.You simply turn it up or down to adjust the power.
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oh i see cool , yes thatvwhat i was talking about , im so amazed at the performance of this mod i just need a diff tank on it , im hoping once i get an rta it will be the tank for it if i dont like rta then ill get the clieto 120 i think that tank will work well with the mod my kids call it my octopuss vape lol
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do lipo batteries work well , i fly rc helicopters and drones its another hobby but they all take those batteries to run them , i never knew vapes had those as batteries
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They are a neat design and their simplicity is their strength .They work well with about any build on them but my favorite is when using larger fused claptons. The ability to turn the power up eliminates the lag time that is associated with mech mods.You no longer have to hit the fire button and wait a second or two.The power is on demand so to speak.
The only downside is that they can’t be used with the sub ohm builds , I need to check with @Whiterose0818 and get the official board limits but I go by the ohms law to not exceed the battery amps. I also never build below .250 ohms on these , I actually prefer my builds to be in the .750 and up range.
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I was slow to get a lipo battery mod but I tend to enjoy them more and more. I do use extra caution when charging them , make sure i am always in the same room and such but I have never had any problems.
I like the advantages of the weight reduction compared to a dual 18650 mod but each has their cons and pros.
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Board limitations?
That’s a good one…Mark, the owner/creator of Smart PWM and the new NLPWM (New Level PWM) has stated and even posted videos of the board handling 0.1 ohm builds, but that was stress testing…he personally recommends 0.2 ohm builds or higher, but I’m sure that’s a cushioned/cautious statement. I have several of my PWM builds going at the moment, with builds ranging from 0.14-0.3 ohms. From what I can gather, the lipos can handle lower builds…especially the lipos with higher ratings. I use lipos with ratings of 35C and higher (minimum)…I even have lipos with 65C constant ratings and have recently ordered lipos with ratings of 100C.
I would like to add:
I use the best 18650 batteries I can find…and I have noticed that, when I get to the voltage cutoff, power is waning and when I pull the batteries after several long pulls at the cusp of voltage cutoff, the batteries are actually warm to the touch. So I believe I am pushing the limits of my batteries…at least a little bit.
Using the lipos I haven’t noticed any warm batteries or any sign of bulging.
On another note…I will hopefully be finishing a build today with the brand new board, the NLPWM. It has digital display and digital controls, all the options of the SPWM 2.2 and the voltmeter display is accurate. I’m pretty excited about this build! I’ll let you guys know how it goes!
Have any questions? Ask away! I’ll answer as soon as possible!
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I think you mentioned it in another thread but do you have any plans to build with a DNA board?
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