DNA 200 Devices Are Not Impressing Me Much

So on 1/27/16 I bought my first DNA 200 device. The Flawless Tugboat DNA 200. The vape shop I bought it from set me up with a coil build and got it running great in Escribe and kind of went through some of the settings with me. I vaped on it for a week or so before ever hooking it up to Escribe at home. The coils were working fine so I just left it alone.

Then on 2/5/16 I grabbed the new Vapor Shark DNA 200 mod. I love this little mod. It’s so comfortable and just looks cool with anything on it. There really isn’t much else to say. DNA 200 seems to be DNA 200 and the only difference is the case they install it in.

Two days ago on 2/14/16 the Tugboat is vaping just fine all morning. I go grab me some coffee. Come back and go to vape on it again and the screen goes black. And that was all she wrote. The only way the screen will even come on now it by plugging it into a USB. It won’t recognize any atomizer or rda I stick on it.

So then tonight I went to see the movie Deadpool with my girl. Yeah, I was vaping in the theater when I noticed my battery was getting low. So I plugged it into a portable USB charger. After the movie I took it home and placed it on a wall charger. It would not charge. The battery icon never switched to the charge icon. So I plugged it into my PC and fired up Escribe. I reset defaults after trying a few things. But nothing seems to work.

I have contacted my vape shop about the Vapor Shark to see if I can get an exchange since I haven’t even had it two weeks yet. If they can’t do it I am going to be pretty upset. Because the only reason I buy there is if I have a problem they take care of it. But the Tugboat is being mailed to California tomorrow on my dime.

So DNA 200 is zero for two in my book. And only having a 90 day warranty on the Tugboat and a 120 day warranty on the Vapor Shark is going to have me counting the days until the warranty runs out. I just can’t see spending $200 on a mod with such a short warranty. Had I read the fine print I don’t think I would have purchased them.

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I hear ya brother, I haven’t been able to take the plunge on a DNA200 yet. It’s one thing if my $40 Cubiod or RX200 go out but a DNA200 whole different story. Sorry to hear about it, I’m sure your B&M will take care of you. Still not going there myself !!!.

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This sounds like an overly discharged battery.
You have to set your battery type and how low it discharge. If it discharge below 3v per cell the Lipos may fail.

These are the settings for my battery type…

I’m not sure if this will work, but give it a try…

Hard Reboot…

Then try a Recovery Charge…

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Excellent user-to-user support there! :smiley:

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My device is set to cutoff at 3.05v. It never got that low. Keep in mind this is only the second or third time I have had to charge this mod. A lipo will not fail if you screw up and over-discharge slightly at least from what I have seen. The actual fail area of most LiPo’s is below 2v from what I read when I first got into RC. The 3.05 is an extra buffer. I have about 40 LiPo’s here from my various RC cars. I also have some pretty expensive chargers. But this battery is soldered in here I think. I can’t for the life of me figure out why these people making these mods don’t leave the battery able to be removed easily. Then I could charge it on my LiPo balance chargers. Plus have spare batteries. When I make my own…

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Can you screen shot the recovery charge so I can see your battery cells level. (Highlighted in yellow.)

If it’s far below 3v you may have failed cells.

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Sure. Give me a minute…

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When this all started I was still at 3.75+ volts

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All of your cells are below 3v but not far. Leave it on recovery and you may be okay. Your battery settings are off and I think that’s why it failed.

The cell voltage is dropping. I am now at 2.5v. Something is wrong with the zip charger would be my guess.

@Whiterose0818 has a VS… maybe he’ll weigh in with his settings.

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I just got back from the vape shop. They’re both toast. The initial shipment of VS’s were delayed because of a problem with the battery wiring. Go figure I guess huh? So later today both my DNA 200 devices will be mailed back home to be repaired. You can see the fuse in the Tugboat is blown. So that one will probably be an easy fix. I am just going to make my own DNA 200.

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But the great thing about the Dna 200 is the actual chip has a 1 yr warranty on it. Evolv has great customer service and will take care of it for you without a doubt. Trust me I’ve had 2 devices fuse pop on me within the first 2 weeks of having them both. It was my fault tho I had preheat at 200 and punch on like 8.7 with like a ni200 .06 build. But now I have two And they work absolutely flawless imo it’s the best chip on the market. But back to the point of the shop you got it from wont replace it I’m sure the manufacturer will. I would use evolv as your last option tho if needed.

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have you seen the DNA200 kits from nonameboxmods?

https://nonameboxmods.com/

i am planning on building 2 DNA200’s, just not sure whether i’ll be buying kits or if i’ll be ordering all the items individually…
keep me posted in what you decide!
heres a coupla more links for ya:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/222008881462?ssPageName=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

http://stores.ebay.com/Shop-ATI-Store/Box-Mod-Parts-/_i.html?_fsub=7406236015&_sid=60154495&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

i wish i had someone with experience buying the parts needed…OR i wish i had a good solid parts list of all things needed to build one!

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I have been on the lookout for some good buttons too. There are tons of electronic supply stores online. But I am not sure which buttons will work. Basically you just need a pin that fits into a hole in the case that will press the button on the board. But all the kits I am seeing actually have switches.

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Sorry to hear about your Dna 200 problems , man that sucks.I originally bought my Vaporshark back in November because it was one of the few that the battery has quick connectors.I also bought two turnigy batteries from Hobby King at the same time.Even though the batteries will physically fit I am going to have to solder on a different connector before they can be used.I have since picked up my third Dna 200 so swapping batteries isn’t a priority any more.
From everything I have read about VS they will replace your mod but yeah that still sucks.
There was a guy/company on Facebook selling aluminum boxes that were machined like the Evolv reference mod and very reasonable but I haven’t been able to find them.I read about it on the Evolv forum and I will include a link.As far as builds go the forum has some pretty good information that may help.
http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/evolvs-black-reference-mod-7783521?highlight=referance+mod&trail=30
http://xevape.com/?post_type=product

I found out today the Vapor Shark battery is removable, so I was told. When I was looking at it that is what I thought as well. There are 3 connections. The positive and negative power wires I was told are bullet pins under what appears to be loosely shrunk shrink wrap. Then there is the balance plug. It is the one with 4 wires going to it. So I am betting if I were to be a bit more brave I could have just removed the battery and charged it with a real charger. I am going to ask Vapor Shark if this is an option that won’t void the warranty. Because if so I would like to keep a spare battery on hand just in case I am somewhere without a charger.

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I just snapped mine apart to take a quick picture for you.

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That is what i was guessing was under the shrink wrap. Same thing used on some of my RC’s. Love the decal!

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