I have 4 DNA 200 devices. A Flawless Tugboat. A Vapor Shark. And two VT 133’s. I bought the Tugboat back in February, and the Vapor Shark the following week. Less than a week later they both died the same day. The fuse popped on the board on the Tugboat. And I am not sure what went bad in the Vapor Shark. It just refused to be recognized when connected to USB. So it wouldn’t charge or anything. I sent them both back to their makers for repair which took around 14 days total. A month or so ago I bought two VT 133’s. Last night I noticed my Vapor Shark was refusing to charge again. I have had to do a recovery charge numerous times on it. Alas, again it will no longer do anything. So I reach for one of my VT 133’s. It’s saying check the batteries. But they are fully charged. Regardless, I tried a few sets in it. Nothing! I assume one of the battery cables (which I hear are way too small for the device) has probably fried. As for the Vapor Shark - I am ready to toss it in a lake. It is by far the most troublesome mod I have ever owned. I can’t go a couple days without it not wanting to charge. And now it’s completely dead again. Steer clear of that one. I am going to get it fixed and get rid of it and buy an Opus 200 instead.
Anyone had any of these issues with DNA 200 devices?
If LiPo batteries are overly discharged they will fail. You have to set the charge and discharge range for your battery type on escribe. I know you can order new batteries for the Vt200s, but I’m not sure about the others.
I have had my vt 133 for a little over a month now and have not had a single issue with it.
I have the pre-heat set to zero seconds and wattage at 40. Temp set between 440 and 500 f and using single coils 316L 24g 3mm id 5 to 7 wraps. 2 25r’s lasting almost a full day
Connect your DNA200s to Escribe and click the Device Monitor tab, then take and post screenshots. I’d like to see how low your batteries have been discharged. If these 3 in red are below 3 volts you have overly discharged your batteries.
The “fuse” is likely just a fuseable link which is just a patch of etched copper on the PCB. I would recommend you not do anything I recommend …but I do it all the time. If you are handy with a soldering gun you can just solder a few strands of copper wire across the obviously blasted spot. It may be underrated volt-wise (insufficient Quality Control). Get some fine shellacked wire (insulated with clear paint and scrap the soldered ends clean …something off a junk electronic thingy (little coil).
You could get into testing the resistance of a good PCB in a working model with a voltmeter, and apply the same test to your freshly twisted patch wires, but you’ll know if it’s too little amount of wire as it’ll pop easy …add a couple more strands. Yeah it’s not super safe (penny in the fuse box kinda idea) but post-Vapocalyse this kinda rigging will become status quo
I don’t know why some have so many failures and others have none , luck of the draw I am sure. I own six DNA200’s , the Vapor Shark is my workhorse.I carry it at work and it is subjected to grit and grease and it shows it well , dropped more times than I like to admit but it just keeps on going.
The VS I have owned longer than the others with the exception of the Wismec Reuleaux .I was warned shortly after buying the Wismec that the ribbon was tucked under the fire button and would fail shortly ,that was several months ago and so far so good!
Sorry to hear you and others are having so much trouble.
I thank you for the heads up about the VT133 as I was leaning towards picking up a couple before the deadline.I wasn’t aware they had any problems.
Good luck with the Opus!
I have 8 DNAs, all are 200’s but one 133…the VaporShark was my first. I haven’t had any problems outside of the SDNA wanting to read my ohms too low, but I adjust that one accordingly. I use the VS daily, never a problem…LV must just have some super current running through his veins. That is some shitty luck, though. Half tempted to send you one of mine and see how long it lasts you.
Dayum, LV, that totally sucks. Ive been waiting for these cheapo evic minis to fail so that i can go back to my mechs. Dern things just keep on working…
Don’t have a DNA (maybe someday) so I can’t really comment except to say that you have rotten luck. I think that’s too many to fail in that time frame.
I learned a long while ago if you are wanting something to fail or it is cheap to replace , it never will!
I have had pretty good luck with mods , only three failures that I can remember off hand. A Provari v2 mini ,House of Hybrids Zna 30 lite, and a Protovapor DNA 30 XPV.
I skipped the whole DNA40 experience due to such bad luck with Evolvs earlier products.It does suck that so many are still having issues.
@Pro_Vapes, by overly discharge, do you mean hitting a VCMT at 200 watts? I have a DNA device and I have yet to put it on escribe because of the nightmares I have heard. I have been using it in watt mode only for about 2 months now and just plugging up and recharging. Seems a waste of the technology but this thing works great in watts mode. My reason for getting one was to set up a TC SS setting for myself but dang it, chances are if I put it on escribe and set it up then it’s soon headed to spare parts pile. I just don’t know what to do but if running it hard with a monster RTA will toast the battery WTF good is this less than durable, unreliable mod that more than likely is going to have a very short life???
I think someone must have pushed this technology and chip out of the gate way too fast if the users are having so much trouble with DNA devices. It really makes me wish I never got it… I mean what good is a DNA if it won’t hold up to a vapors demand? Do you think that maybe lots of us just don’t know what the hell we are doing in escribe and causing this flood of failures? I just don’t see the rational explanation with so many headed to the DNA graveyard.
No that’s not it. Overly discharging is draining the battery lower than it can recover from. Llithium ion and LiPo batteries has a cutoff point in order to not deplete the battery. Depleting them can ruin them. The cutoff is around 3 volts per cell.
These mods are really simple to setup if you use the right CSV and Ecig files. If you need help there are a lot of resources to get you setup.
IMO not setting them properly can ruin batteries and blow fuses, among other things.
I can’t really complain about the Provari V2 Mini , it was my all day carry for over a year along with the fullsize V2.It wasn’t until after my ZNA lite died that I had an issue.That is when I noticed the Provari mini would only work in stealth mode? It was aggravating though and I replaced it with a seven-22 I think it is called , a 26650 regulated tube mod that I still use on occasion for shits and giggles.
The full size Provari is still going strong , I gave it away to a friend to help them and they are still using it to this day.
Not to discount LV’s troubles. I think if you research around though DNA 200 mods overall don’t have a huge failure rate. On the internet people tend to post when they have issues, but most don’t pop on just to say everything’s working great. I’d be curious, but I bet if we did an ELR poll of DNA200 owners that the number of satisfied owners greatly outweighs those that have had issues. Just trying to bring perspective.
I have three and they’ve been trouble free in daily use as my main mods for almost six months. They are more complicated and require a bit of setup, but oh man is the time spent worth it!!
This is perhaps my only gripe with Evolv , I don’t think letting these devices leave the factory set on 200 watt preheat was a good idea.I think the factory default 200 watt preheat blew more fuses than was necessary.Most people just want a plug and play device , especially those like myself that are computer challenged.Luckily those like yourself were eager to help the ones like me get it resolved but some buyers weren’t fortunate to have help or even know there is a problem.
The other problem on the majority of my six was not a fault of Evolv but a fault of the manufacturer.There should be no reason for a person to get a new mod with the Watt hours and the case thermals not set correctly before it leaves the factory.The exception of course was the Wismec as the watt hours was dependent on what 18650 battery that you purchased.
I think Evolv and the manufacturers would have been wise to include a user manual.I am certain it would have saved them both time and money.There is no reason for any electronics costing in the 100-200 range not to have a manual. Web sites for support are great but they don’t replace a diagram for the majority of us older users.Even my $20.00 scale came with a user manual.
Vapor Shark is sending me a new mod. As soon as I get the shipping label they are sending me, and I send mine back that is. They have been great through this whole process. No complaints at all for customer service!!!
@Pro_Vapes, when I attempted the recovery charge one cell started dropping. It went all the way down to 1.25v. So I imagine one of the cells went bad.
I have very expensive LiPo chargers for my RC cars, and probably $500 worth of LiPo batteries I have used over the years. It has always been stressed not to charge a LiPo faster than it’s mAh rating. So a 950 mAh battery should be carged at .95 amp or 1 amp. The Vapor Shark has and internal zip charger so you are supposed to be able to charge at 2 amp. But I don’t charge over 1 amp because I take care of my batteries. This whole zip charging thing to me doesn’t make sense. And the Sharks seem to be having lots of dead battery issues.
Glad to see they are taking care of the problem and thank you for the information about avoiding the 2.0 amp charging to prolong the battery life.
EDIT I decided now would be a good time to check the device monitors on my six DNA200 mods just to see if the cells are staying balanced.
All of my cells seem to be in balance and very close.I also noted the puff count on each to get an idea of their usage to date.
Wismec Reuleaux DNA 200 26,500 Puffs
Vapor Shark DNA 200 30,000 Puffs
Vapor Dna Project Sub Ohm S200 15,500 Puffs
ProtoVapor Silo DNA 200 15,900 Puffs
Lost Vape Mini Efusion DNA 200 8,500 Puffs
Axis M17 DNA 200 7,200 Puffs
The Axis and the Mini Efusion mods are my out on the town mods so they get limited use.
The Vapor Shark and the Protovapor are my work mods and get the most daily use due to the smaller size.
The Wismec is the travel mod and gets used daily on work days during the two and a half hour commute.
Lastly is the Project Sub Ohm S200 , I use it as a back up on my work mod schedule and basically use it if I am charging the VS and the ProtoVapor Silo.
Just a little bit of useless information but it does show that they all get used to different degrees.
I also have a problem with my DNA 200 (REULEAUX), It eats batteries for breakfast-lunch and dinner. When it was working properly I would change batts every 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 days but now 4 times a day @ 60-70w @ 480-500 temp. When I do change out my batts the mod does not come back on until I do one of two things, Plug in the USB charging/data cord or push and hold the main button while putting the third battery in it’s place. I contacted Evolv and they sent me a RMA# to send it to them, If and when I find out whats wrong with mine I will post it here. Have A Great Vape!!
