DNA200 (and others) resistance lock problems

Hardware Hardware - Mods etc
1

There is a problem that has been bugging me ever since I started messing with TC (one of the first DNA40s in a VaporFlask that later broke down nostalgia) and its resistance lock. OK, it’s obviously not a problem with DNA40s, but you get the idea. With all my newer DNAs (1 200, 2 75s) I don’t see what resistance lock actually does! When I lock the resistance using the + and fire button (I think that was the combination) it says resistance is locked and works the way it should for that session. But as soon as I restart for the second session, it normally prompts me new coil / same coil, I answer same coil, but the f*cking resistance just stays at 0.00 and re-adjusts to the new (i.e. wrong) resistance anyway, throwing all temperatures off :rage: This is seriously driving me nuts.
(That’s maybe the only thing that makes the YiHi chip superior to DNAs for TC, you just input your goddamn resistance once and for all and it stays that way.)

I’ve read not to use resistance lock, but then everything is messed up (see above). I’ve also updated all my DNAs to the newest version, firmware etc. I’ve also tried inputting the resistance lock through escribe - not even that worked.

So far, I’m clueless. I suppose it’s just me? Everyone seems to agree that DNAs are great for TC, but this bug really makes it impossible to properly use TC.
The specific mods are: Panzer, Therion BF and HCigar VT75.

Cheers!

2

3 different mods… same problem… I’d try a different wire. I had this problem before and it was the wire I was using.

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3

easy fix: dont lock resistance on dna. every thing I have read says dont lock the resistance on a dna (smy sdna 75 x 2) so I dont and it performs fine. i lock it on all my eleaf/wismec mods.

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4

Forgot to include that info. I’m using Ti. SS just never worked for me and I don’t like Nickel. I’ll maybe try some NiFe30 soon…

I read that, too. But when I do that, a 0.10 build reads 0.10 the first time, then the second time I pick up the mod maybe it’s 0.16, the third time it may be 0.18 or 0.12… that’s not a solution either, IME.:disappointed:

5

That’s weird. I’d doubt you have 2 rolls of bad wire. Maybe you can include some details… tight wrapped or spaced, wire vendor?

Also did you double check your screws after firing. I do a few quick pulses after a build and re-tighten all the screws. If the wire isn’t bad, this is the only problem I’ve had besides my build making contact with the coil barrel or chimney… depending on the tank.

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6

As for wires, I’ve tried 316L 22, 24, 26, 28 awgs; Ti01 22, 24, 26, 28 awgs and Ni200 28g (shudder).

All coils spaced. Screws tightened after heating. No short with barrel, chimney or base.

As for the wire vendor, they’re in China, various shops on Taobao. Can’t confirm their sources. I’ve tried some wires from UD (316L mainly), you might have had experience with those. Impurities in the Ti could be a concern as their sources can’t be trusted until confirmed.

Bottom line: it’s unlikely that the wire or build is the problem, mostly because the same atty and build works perfectly fine on my YiHis. Confirmed this with cotton burn tests and normal vaping usage.

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I was hoping to offer something you might have missed. Looks like you’ve covered your bases. Sorry I can’t help. I hope you get it worked out.

I’m running 3 VT133s in rotation… all operating and performing the same.

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Thanks for your replies! You’re always there to help people :grinning: Do you lock your ohms or rely on the mod prompting new coil / same coil?

9

I never lock my ohms. A build usually last about 2 - 3 months. After that my coil ohms start to be unstable. Then I know it’s time to change them.

This happens on occasion. Mostly during a change of wick.

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10

I am going to add that the only issue I have ever had with the 2 VT133’s I use everyday was similar to your issue.

It came down to a tank my son gave me would act up on both of my 133’s but would work fine on both my evic mini and his rx200. I went thru everything you mentioned with different wires and builds and still the same.

I now have Kayfun V5’s on both and no matter what builds or wire I use they work as they should every time I hit the fire button.

Also like @Pro_Vapes and @Fozzy71 I never lock my resistance and I only get the new coil question occasionally when re- wicking or if I put in a different ohm build.

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11

Maybe you can find some information on the evolv forum?
https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/resistance-still-climbs-while-its-supposed-to-be-locked-7760270?highlight=resistance+still+climbs+while

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12

Thanks for your input! I’m having this issue with a range each tank or dripper I tried. :anguished:

The guy in that thread is locking ohms in power mode as far as I could gather. But I’ll look around that forum again when I have time! I find it a bit messy and unresponsive - compared to our beloved home, of course :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:
My problem is that the chip doesn’t do what it’s supposed to (according to the manual) - consistently use the cold resistance I locked it to.

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13

Have you updated to the latest firmware service pack?

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I think you have an intermittent connection somewhere. It could be a bad 510 connector or you may need to adjust your center post to stick out a bit more on this mod.

Locking the ohms is not recommended and it is meant as a band-aid for fiddly attys. It says this in the manual somewhere. I have, um, a large number of DNA200s and the only time I’ve had them do the new coil thing it was a particular mod/atty combo shorting or opening, again for me it’s always been this type of problem. YMMV, please let us know if you figure it out, but I bet the DNA is sensing the intermittent contact and unlocking the resistance when it does. I cannot duplicate your problem though under that scenario.

As a diagnostic, I think you should run in device monitor mode and watch the resistance. Signs or intermittent contact should show up if live ohms jumps around and doesn’t vary smoothly. Again, you should not need to lock ohms if you have a stable build. Are you using contact coils?

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Naseschwarz said that he is using spaced coils.

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That would have more than likely been to cure for the tank I was referring to above but it’s pin was not adjustable so I can not say that for sure.

I also agree that from everything he has wrote the issue is with a intermittent contact problem someplace.

I wonder if he has tried any atty of his that works properly to verify it is not a mod issue.

I highly doubt that any one person could end up with 2 faulty DNA devices doing the same thing but anything is possible. .

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17

TY, I didn’t see that. I’d definitely be looking at that center post then.

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@Naseschwarz
I am sorry , I was in a hurry when I posted that.Yes , he was in power mode.I did a quick search and did not find anything that really helped in your situation but I though you could ask your question there.The forum is ran by the makers of the Evolv DNA boards.
I figure if anyone would know it should be them.
Again sorry for the confusion.

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19

Hay I have been away for awhile in reading this I have used 2 two RTA That are stable on my DNA devices Griffin and the Borase I do not even lock the ohms all the others for me I have tried .it seams to show up worst on RTA that are universal occ atomizer we’re you can screw a build deck in to the RTA I do not care what I do if the RTA has a floating center pin drive me up the walls and yes they seam to work on other mods just fine on sx boards but I can only get what I am looking for with titanium just a thought .hopefully this will shed some light I know for a while there has been mentioned above I tried a lot of different wires and everything I didn’t know what the hell’s going on

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This surprises me… They are all I use on my Vt133s. I’ve had problems with other tanks, but none with Boreas.

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