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Shout out to the Temp Control Peoples


OK… that’s exactly what I needed to know (which explains the custom settings…at least I think so)

I kind of knew this wasn’t going to be easy lol… its ok, I haven’t been challenged in a while with a tank.


And thank you!!!


I had to experience it and work with it to get a good understanding of the whole thing. Just reading about it didn’t do it for me. It helped, but it was experiencing the vape and the changes that occurred with different settings that really made it all make sense.

And you’re most welcome.


Apologies if it’s already been addressed, but I typically answer as I’m reading…

Ramp /= cotton. The two are wholly separate things.

Ramp time strictly speaking refers to how fast the coil (and/or wire type) heats up. With varying dependencies on everything from Guage of wire, to wire material (kanthal, ss, ni, etc), to number of wraps, to coil I.D. size.

Tasting cotton (in this application) typically means that “first use” taste you get while the cotton is breaking in. It clears faster with some brands/types than others.

Impossible to change or account for with stock coils, but easy to fix if you’re making your own! (simply change brands of cotton). Which is one of several reasons I won’t ever buy a device that uses factory coils again. :wink:


@Sprkslfly, Spot on! i found that vaping experience with SS (TC or not) is totally different between stock coils and RTA/RBAs. when i had a tank that runs stock coils and had an RBA section that i could build, this became very clear. best example was the old SMOK TFV4. stock coils usually come packed with cotton, very long break-in time - and they are mostly built for someone who vapes high wattage (i don’t) and most of them are single-strand coils - these don’t produce the flavor hit i seek, even if there are 4 of them in there. i would take the RBA, put it a poor little 2-strand twisted SS coils, and voila! a simple clapton 26/34 coil would be way better (flavor, for me) than the stock coil.

i really hope you can get an RTA as you venture into TC, throw in some clapton coils, wick it and see for yourself. in TC mode, the key setting that i would want to adjust (beside the temperature) is the initial power (wattage) that the mod uses to ramp up - to what @walt3 mentioned - to the set temp. if it’s way too high or too low, it will not give the right experience. think of it like the pre-heat feature in power mode.

on the crown tanks/ SS stock coils, i noticed that some people like them (a lot!) and other don’t. i believe they’re designed for a certain vaping style. if after they break in and you use them, you still don’t like the flavor they produce, no worries… this won’t be odd :slight_smile:


It really is quite the minefield when it comes to buying a “quality” mod for sure. They all claim to be “amazing”. Some are but not in a good way. Even when one discovers a board like the DNA the mod manufacturers can make a mess out of that. Obviously, I don’t own every mod made and I am not about to attempt it but a good example is the HCigar VT 75C. Out of the box it produces one each whimpy TC vape. The case thermal characteristics and the internal resistance were never set correctly. So, ok, I can run the case analyzer a do part of that. Next I put in a shorting plug and “oh no!” Evolve no longer supports a dead short analysis with the atomizer test. This mod will never be right without me going to expensive measures to test for the internal resistance. I can get close by playing with the TCR setting, in this case pushing it way up past norm, but the functions of the internal resistance and the TCR are not linear. Then as a testament to the inconsistency in manufacturers, I pull a VT250 out of the box and it’s dead nuts from vape one. Good grief!


Well I guess there may be some technical vape language but (in my mind) ramp is the time it takes to have the liquid taste normal.


I have to disagree VERY strongly with you regarding titanium. This is urban legend. Ti is one of the most inert materials there is unless you handle it in very particular ways and the nanoparticle argument is complete BS. At very high temperatures, far beyond vaping, I worry about high chromium stainless like 316, so if a person were blowing builds often, I would tell them to avoid using SS. It is physically impossible for Ti to emit anything that will harm you that wasn’t put there during manufacture.

You can take or leave that information as you see fit, I have a PhD and aside from having made and handled Ti nanoparticles amongst many other nano-oxides, I make my living primarily as a materials scientist. I completely agree with you on nickel, but Ti being dangerous, in any way, is urban legend.

One last bit, 316 is passivated and doesn’t oxidize due to chromium. It is not a friendly element, but it is well retained in 316SS. .Ti is self passivating and does not corrode due to an extremely well formed and attached layer of TixOx oxides. These oxides are quite durable, which is why Titanium does not rust, no chromium required…again, take the info as you see fit. I’m not here to argue, but I do debunk the bad info I see RE titanium.


Lol, knew that was coming. I only know what I read. Now I’ve read this. My only resolve is to say nothing.


Can’t say whether or not this is true with a particular mod I’ve not used, but the TC mods I have used that have a wattage setting - that is telling the mod it’s limit and has nothing to do with ramp up time. In other words, you set the mod to 475F and 80watts. You telling the mod it has 80 watts available to reach 475. Now ramp up time is indirectly affected here. Because if you have a large build, 80 watts will probably get to 475…eventually :slight_smile: Similarly, if you set to 475F and 150watts, the mod has more available wattage before reaching the power limit, so naturally it will reach temp faster. It’s all rather relative, with dependencies on the mod, batteries, and build.

@Maureeenie I’ve been watching this thread. There is some good information, but also some misinformation. I’m just hoping you make the discoveries you need with more successes than anything. Do understand that if TC is working properly on your mod, and you are not getting good wicking, the design of TC is such you should be getting a weak vape. Only saturated coils should fire nice and hot on a mod set to TC.


@SthrnMixer @therabidweasel


Once again I’m out. This is bull shit. Take what you will from the writings on the wall and may you always vape happy.


Sorry you’re feeling targeted. If you would post more factual information when making affirmative statements it would probably go smoother. And it’s not just things you’ve said…this thread is a shit show of misinformation.


Whatever wire you choose, be sure to clean it well with isopropyl alcohold or vodka/ever clear until your cotton ball or wipe leaves no grey streaks.

Beyond that, I have found that after building, including wicking, a 30 minute hot usc in vodka and rinse in hot tap water minimizes any break in, particularly for hemp. This method also dissloves the oils from your hands that get transferred to the build. @SthrnMixer has also recommended washing your hands well before building and I also highly recommend that.


Hey man, I didn’t mean any attacks on you personally. I may start a thread discussing all the alloys used in vaping wire…SS316 also contains nickel, but again it is well retained in the alloy.


Unless you use a Hohm Wrecker G2 or a Hohm Slice


I sure hope that is a tongue n cheek! I thought that thing was debunked a year ago.


Pretty sure thats exactly what Walt was saying!


Lol. Fair enough! :wink:
We all have some level of “internal translation” to do…

What you describe is what most folks refer to as “break in” time. (most commonly referring to cotton, but not always) :grin:


Actually I have 2 G2’s and a Slice and they work perfect in temp mode even with mesh coils.
The xxx mode will temp control just about any thing if you know how to use it right
I wish I could get a Squonk Mod with the Hohm Tech chip/board