If you were blindfold and took a toke from this tank you would say… It’s a dripper. Tanks has arrived people. This tank is the best I own. Some say it’s hard to build but I don’t think they understand the innovations SMOK has made on this tank. Very easy to build and wick. Four large juice that could wick molasses.
It has a 2 post design… Like the Crown Tank it has raised shoulders on the post. All you do is back the screw out a bit and insert the wires and tighten. It’s designed to pin the wires under the screw head… no broken wires this way.
I recommend a 2.5 to 3.0 ml. ID… yep it will fit. It’s bigger than it looks. That’s why I don’t understand why some people say it’s hard to build. This big ID gives room for plenty of extra cotton… and you will need it to clog those huge juice channels.
Once it’s wicked fluff those tails a wet your cotton. I don’t trim dry cotton because you don’t know if you length is right until you get it to lie down.
Everybody has a method for wicking… here’s mine. Once I wet my cotton I lay it over the juice channels. I like just a little in the channels without it packing it in. IMO packing slows the juice flow causing dry hits. This method has always worked for me. As long as the entire channel is covered I get no leaks and my juice flow free.
Usually by the time I assemble and fill my tank, my coil is cool enough to set the resistance for my TC mod. Once it’s set then it’s happy vaping.
This my method that works everytime for me. I hope this will help if you run into trouble. Again this tank surpasses all I own for flavor and vapor production. You will hear a lot about this tank system. There will be 6 to 8 different set ups for this tank system. I’m sure there is a set up that will suit your needs.
Have you found your mod is inaccurate with dual coil titanium? It should be inaccurate, unless it has a dual coil setting, because the temperature coefficient of resistance (what is used for calculating the temperature) is different than when you use a single coil…
None of my mods show Co-E so I wouldn’t know. I just set resistance and vape. No dry hits… but I always vape tanks. I have a Cube 2 due in today. You should do a tutorial on Co-E so I will know what to do. I’m not set on specific temps, but I usually wind up between 400 and 500 degrees.
Fortunately it’s fairly simple! Pure titanium has a temperature coefficient of resistance (TCoR) of 0.0035 - Just like resistance, TCoR halves when put in parallel, so a dual coil will have a TCoR of 0.0017(5). If you can’t set TCoR, then the temperature reading will not be meaningful, but you will just have to set it a bit lower (just like when we use Ti-wire on Nickel-only TC-mods)…
I’m vaping this dual Ti coil at 500 degrees comfortably. Some single Ti coils I have to vape around 400 degrees. I really don’t know what this means though… just a comparison. Then again it may be the juice.
I’m sure I’ll be pulling the trigger soon. I’ve been recoiling all my tanks with titanium and it’s been quite impressive the amount of life put back into these oldies …my Cthulhu which I wasn’t impressed with is actually quite good now .
What I have found is there is no advantage to setting the TCoR unless you know exactly what you are doing. I’m getting the same if not better performance from my current TC mods. If you don’t set it just right there will be problems when using Ti. For me I think the Cube X 2 is a little too technical and wont appeal to people that just want to install a Ti setup, set resistance and vape. I was in dry hit city until I figured it out after 8 hrs. There need to be detailed instructions for how to set up this mod.
I tried this set up on dual Ti coils and experienced a ton of dry hits. When I set it back to .0035 the vape smoothed out. Where can I read up on this and does this apply to all gauges. Seems like it would vary with your wire gauge.
EDIT: The reason for my research was dual Ti and also because some of the Ti-wire I had was not grade 1, but rather an alloy (so the TCoR wasn’t the same)…
Sorry for the embarrassingly stupid questions but as you know I have never done this and know ZERO when it comes to builds…
But I have some 24g stainless that @quitter1 was so graciously generous to send me and I have no idea how many wraps to do for the dual rba on the TF4V? I’m sure there is a topic about this but I can’t seem to find it? 5 is the number I seem to find but I would like to stay at .25 or lower? I really don’t know and I’m sorry for the dumb ass question but I am quite seriously unedumacated and have no idea where to start…
I actually have steam booked marked come to think of it but never had a reason to use it. I’ll go over and check it out and play around and see if I can figure out the basics at least, thanks!
I’ve been using the 26g lately. I wouldnt do 24g duals, it’d be too low and a hot vape. 7 wraps of 24g SS on 3mm bit, dualed, ohm’d out to 0.15 or some crazy shit like that. I’d only single coil those puppies if I were joo.
I believe @quitter1 gave us 316L. I have no experience with that tank or deck, just dont dual that 24g. Save that 24g for your single coil applications.
Gotcha…last stupid question (maybe) what’s a good target resistance then? I must be doing something wrong and I will have to REALLY do some more homework before I even attempt to wrap because this is literally uncharted territory…plus I have to research the whole 3mm bit thing- The only tools I have in my vape gear is the tiny screw driver I got with my dripper a while back and I made one coil with it way back in the day when I tried dripping and abandoned it and building on a tank couldn’t be farther from that…
Like leg length and all that I have no clue about
I’m looking at all the info on steam and it may as well be written in zwahili
