Do you use a certain method to flatten or just a basic hammer?
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I saw someone but can’t remember who, using their pasta maker to flatten their braided builds LOL.
Probably not a method to become very popular, but I watched it regardless for the shit and giggles.
When I get home tonight, I’ll see if I find that video, just for entertainment purposes if anything 
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You could use a hammer, but I prefer to work smarter and not harder. One of these is quick and flattens nice and even. Plus you can use it for pasta as well
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yes but dont you hate when the vape taste like pasta?
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I dunno…a basil garlic pesto might not be too bad…
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Well here comes the spoiler… (I have a rep for this kind of post) but I do feel a need to insert a different opinion. I’ve been using Ti with TC for about 3 years now. It has just worked best over the years for ME.
Back in 2015 there was a wire that was totally new to vaping called G Plat. (<<< CLICK HERE). At that time it was the best most amazing wire I ever tried. It was very, very expensive and a total secret by the one vendor that supplied it. The Notorious CROWN V1 was the 1st tank manufacturer to utilize this wire and it was an instant hit.
Well someone on Reddit found someone to test this wire and the results… DRUM ROLE… IT WAS SS!!! I twisted it and claptoned it to death, and I was just so effing happy with the results… but then came Ti and all the hard work came to an end.
Although twisting and winding wire is still popular today… I found it not necessary to achieve a premium vape experience. Once I married spaced dual coil 22 gauge TI and a DNA Mods I found my BLISS. I have tried a clapton or 2 since then, but Ti in TC just hit the spot for me… even now.
It’s longevity is insane. When you master building, cleaning and wicking it, it’ll out last any wire hands down. I run 6 Boreas tanks and I’ve only had to change 1 coil this year. YMMV.
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Ti looks tempting but then it burns if not dealt with properly, and is TC only.
Even in TC, I had a coil break a couple of weeks back, I fear what the result would have been with a ti build.
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I agree, I think SS is the all around winner for being clean tasting, long lasting, and versatile in TC or power. And I agree with the simple build. I did run the full gambit of building but eventually settled back to a simple single strand parallel. Hang in there UPS and you’ll find your happy place.
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I do understand your concerns, but this isn’t exclusive to Ti wire. One reason I use 22g Ti is it’s a lot more resistant to burning or breaking than the higher gauges.
I have yet to experience this in TC mode while vaping. IMO the cotton would be dry and burn long before 22g Ti will reach temps to burn or break. I don’t no of anyone that will continue to vape when experiencing a dry hit.
For some reason some vapers think Ti is some deadly concoction of metals and the fear about Ti is really unwarranted. You definitely don’t want to sucking on any mod when the wire burns and break. I’d be more more worried about the Chrome content in some wires.
There’s been a ton of discussion about wire safety and those that choose to use whatever wire should be very cautious of safe usage.
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If this would be the case, Ti simply wouldn’t be sold by companies for the purpose of vaping and there would be severe health warnings about it.
I’ve seen a lot of stuff written about it as well, but mostly stuff where people are just talking about it, no references, nothing to back up the claims. I’d feel pretty safe vaping on Ti, but it’s expensive wire and I don’t like to clean coils… when it’s time for a new wick, I always put in a new coil too. (Or maybe I should put it differently, when the coil is gunked up, I’ll change the wick too).
Would be interesting to know what mod and settings and coils you were vaping on. I find it hard to imagine that would happen on a properly configured DNA device… TC is offered on most devices but there are few where it actually properly works.
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I know this thread has been derailed and I do apologize to the OP. Just one last thing to add that might help the OP about vaping wires…
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The break was on very thin ribbon wire, that got kinked on its third rewick. Heat stress probably finished it.
My point is that this would have likely started metal fire had it been Ti, I would have a really bad burn, and the tank would be toast.
In controlled situations, ti is probably better.
For safety, I suspect soft iron would be least likely too have problems ( but to my knowledge is not used, bad TCR, too fast oxydation?), SS has chromium indeed, bit it should have next to no leeching event at 300C.
Just another reason for me not to rewick coils. Once the wick is done, the coil is done. Once the coil is done, the wick is done.
So many people rewick and clean their coils by glowing them and rinsing them off in cold water… those heat fluctuations really aren’t good for keeping the metal in shape and I do not want to vape on something that really shouldn’t be trusted anymore. I’d rather pay a few cents more for extra wire than to put my health, mod or tank at risk.
Your comment really has me perplexed. This scenario has no factual base in a real world situation. I’ve accidentally and intentionally melted .50 mm Ti wire and there was no fire or ruined tank. From what I’ve researched is a Ti fire is mostly caused by Ti metal shavings not to a 3 inch piece of Ti wire. It’ll pretty much just flash and break with no total wire or tank disintegration.
But I guess it’s best to be safe if you really don’t know.
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While I agree with you a hunert percent on the flavor and oh so satisfying vape of the Deep Water Ti coil, I haven’t given up on the building of claptons just yet. I gotta do something with my hands!
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Well if it wasn’t for how convenient it is to build a simple dual coil that satisfies, I’d probably still be wrapping SS claptons myself. I’m such a lazy bastard.
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Wait, WHAT?! 
One coil change in the last 12 months or in 2018? I guess either way it’s still pretty impressive. What’s your cleaning process? I’m also a…
…so I’m just a little bit intrigued by this. Lol
(Sorry to continue the derailment)
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reasonable TC + juices without sugars (and other crust making products) make for very long lasting coils. Mine looks nearly clean after 3 weeks.
addition:
the photo looks worse that it is, there is still a metal glow to the coil. And here both the cotton and coil are 3 weeks old, but I only go through 3/4mL a day.
And for those who wonder if this is a ribbon, it isn’t, I was in a hurry and ribbon take longer as they are so bloody springy. This is 0.42mm (whixh is 26 AWG, I guess) SS316L round wire.
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AVS even tells you that pulsing them, aka dry burn is not an issue. But a lot of people, for whatever reason think, that dry burning your coil at the wattage, they normally vape at, is a great decision.
It’s not lol. I gently pulse my SS coils at 15watts. I don’t glow them or run them hot orange at 60+ watts of some bs.
My coils get cleaned on a weekly basis, lasting over 6 months. If I would go by the wicking, I probably would never clean them because kendo cotton lasts forever in comparison to cotton bacon.
But I understand your concern, however just like with everything in life or even just vape related, user error doesn’t mean a product is bad or more harmful than others.
Well what fun is that? 
I guess that’s where “YMMV” comes in to play. 
I change my wicks every few days and my coils about every 4-5 weeks roughly. I’d be interested to see if Ti wire could stretch the time between coil changes a little bit. As far as I can see, @pro_vapes vapes pretty “clean” juices so I wouldn’t be surprised if coils last longer for him than they would with the dirty shit I vape, but in my book anything that could help extend the life of my coils by a little bit would be worth looking into (except for cleaning up my recipes. 
)!
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