My first trip to deep water. Thanks for tossin me some 22 Ti @Sahyatt. The flavor is great with these. I need to update the firmware on my istick 200. It was easier to update my rx 2/3. Thanks for all the info @Pro_vape I’ll be using this set up for a while. 6 spaced wraps of 22ga Ti on a 2.5 ohmed out at .06… super sub ohm
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If you haven’t done so, be sure to take the time and read some of the info below. There have been many discussions on ELR and elsewhere about the use of TC wires. Personally I feel it’s perfectly safe, but there are precautions to take as well as proper use, cleaning etc to be found. I will start off with one tidbit, then some links.
Don’t dry burn Titanium like you do Kanthal. Never get it to a bright glow. First, when you do this it creates a layer of TiO2 (Titanium Dioxide). There are some health concerns about that, and some folks insist there’s no danger. I err on the side of caution myself and simply avoid creating TiO2 altogether. But aside from that, Titanium will combust if you get it too hot. Of course that is at very high temperature (610C) which you would likely never reach - and certainly never reach that while vaping.
Here is interesting reading -
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Thanks for the info, I read up on all the links you posted and I’m good to go. I will probably just put new coils in when the time comes, but I do like your wet wick method I might try it. I am digging the flavor off these simple Ti builds… it shouldn’t be this easy lol
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Can’t take credit for that one. That would be @BoDarc
I’ve all but stopped using Ti coils, but only because for the last 11 months or so my work responsibilities have increased exponentially leaving me with less and less free time - and I’ve found my happy spot with SS which is ok to dry burn. So I’m saving substantial time over cleaning or rebuilding Ti coils.
Have fun. Ti is wonderful and that 22ga dual coil build first recommended by @Pro_Vapes has made a lot of vapers on ELR quite happy!
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If we ever get a Vapers Hall Of Fame @Pro_Vapes should be inducted the first year.The Deep Water build is the build to judge all others on!
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Amen to that!!
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I know this is an old thread, but I still found that it was useful to read it. I learned a lot. And perhaps by moving this thread up, some of the newer folks such as myself would get to see it.
I have a question about this for safety reasons. I used the Steam Engine Ohms claculator to see what this would look like. I got the following result:
For amperes I get 50A. But my battery says 35A on it.
was I supposed to change some other variables? for example, since I have 2 (3.7v) batteries, was I supposed to double the volts on the calculator?
I am sure I’m misunderstanding something here. because when I double the volts, the amps on the calculator changes to a higher number.
When you say it is required here, is this for safety reasons? or because it won’t work as nice on other decks. I’m asking because I wanna try building this on a Wotofo Troll V2 and the Boreas v2.
Thanks man. You have been a lot of help already. 
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Yep with a two battery Mech mod in series, double the voltage. Fyi there is no real 18650 cell rated 35a.
Edit… I believe you would need to be running this type of build with a parallel mod. Am I correct @Pro_Vapes?
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Glad you been doing some studying!
Attaching quick reference chart but basically in dual parallel (u had a smok something or other which is not) the voltage 3.7 but the amperage is shared between the 2 batts.
In series ( which is mostly likely what u have) the voltage doubles and shares the amperage. In your example?w/ regulated device u are able to adjust the wattage and not pulling all that from the battery but most wont fire that low (8.4v / .07= 120amps x 8.4 = 1008 watts!)
U should start your first build around the resistance that the coil heads u used to use so u keep the wattage/heat flux roughly the same that u are used to.
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At the time of that post the TFV4 was the only tank I knew of with a deck large enough to fit this build.
I was never able to figure out mech mods and always preferred a regulated mod myself. So all the calculations were done for me by the mod itself. Any advice I’d give about mechs will probably be wrong, so I’d prefer a more experienced mech user give you advice.
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I’m not using a mech mod. Sorry I should have been clear on that.
I have a Smok alien 220w.
Dual battery. IMR 18650. 3000mAh . 3.7V 35A
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You were right. I got this from Smok’s official website:
and in this image they show the resistance range:
I’m surprised to see that the range is different in TC mode.
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The Alien is rated down to .06 ohms in TC Mode and can read Ti, so you should be ok.
Alien 220 Mod Specifications:
Dimensions: 443085mm
Wattage Range: 6W - 220W
Temperature Range: 200°F - 600°F / 100°C - 315°C
Voltage Range: 0.35V - 8V
Resistance Range:
0.1Ω - 3.0Ω (VW Mode)
0.06Ω - 3.0Ω (TC Modes)
Compatible TC Wires: Ni200, Titanium, Stainless Steel
Large OLED Display
Individual Battery Level Display
Micro USB Port (Charging & Upgrading)
Ergonomic Design
Lateral Fire Trigger
Spring Loaded 510 Pin
Requires (2) 18650 Batteries (Batteries Sold Separately)
Sliding Battery Door
Firmware Upgradeable
TFV8 Baby Specifications:
Dimensions: 53*22mm
3.0mL Tank Capacity
Stainless Steel Construction
Glass Tank Section
Dual Cyclops Adjustable Airflow
Top Fill System
Wide Bore Delrin Drip Tip
Swivel Action Top Fill
Full Kit Package Contents:
1 x Alien 220W Mod
1 x TFV8 Baby Tank
1 x V8 Baby-Q2 Coil (0.4Ω Pre-Installed)
1 x V8 Baby-T8 Coil (0.15Ω)
1 x Replacement Glass Tube
1 x Micro USB Cable
1 x Sealing Pad
2 x Smok Silicone Vapor Bands
5 x Spare O-Rings
1 x User Manual
1 x Warranty Card
1 x Qualified Battery Card
Mod Kit Package Contents:
1 x Alien 220W Mod
1 x Micro USB Cable
1 x User Manual
1 x Warranty Card
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I assume the range in tc mode is different for several reasons, but specific to titanium the resistance of the coil goes up as it heats up, so a .08 ohm coil is only .08 at room temp. With a regulated mod your wattage determines the amps drawn, not your coil ohm. On the steam engine calculator you can change the figure that is locked, so lock the ohms. change the wattage to a reasonable number and your amps used will change.
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I get really tense when I hear about builds at .1 and lower, so please be careful, even with a regulated. (Hand-wringing worried fellow vaper here).
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yes, u have to use TC mode that low but just curious why u are attempting t build that low to start w/. Id start w/ something reasonable for your first and learn what u like, say .2-.5. it would put less strain on the batteries to giving u longer life.
Edit: was directed at @Zak2017 which also makes me wonder why he is attempting TI for his first build
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I really appreciate your concern. It makes me happy to know that.
to answer your question @worm1 it is a bit complicated. for my first build I will be doing stainless steel 316L .25 ohms. The titanium is not really for me to work with by myself. It is actually for my roommate/friend. He is the one who introduced me to vaping.He’s been vaping for a couple years now. He has used many different materials of wire, but never used titanium before. I’m trying to introduce something he may like. So we will be working on this together. The reason that I am on the forum and not him is because of the language barrier.
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thanks! this makes sense now. 
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…Bumped. In a recent discussion re: Ni80 and nickel wire coils in general, I remembered how long they lasted …just by staying clean. One of the most visible clues to Ni wrapped Claptons is the silver-colored shine/polish. The problems I have had with Ti is that the nice soft Ti Vape wire brand I have is coarse in texture …a rough porous looking extrusion.
For me this usually ended with crusty coils that were hard to restore multiple times. The rough surface seemed to build up more easily and clean less easily. My interest in a Ti build has been restored and I have plans to use some 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper to polish up some 22Ga Ti wire …see if I can get it shiny …see if that makes a difference. I’ll be sure to get it super clean in my Ultrasonic before vaping (Ti dust) and post up some pics/results
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