You bet your …
Do I need a TC device to use ti coils?
No, you can use it in non-TC mods - That’s how I started with titanium Just do non-contact (spaced coils )
Nope probably at least a 40w device. TC helps alot though. When I started using it I didn’t have a TC mod.
Another happy Ti converter…
Slowly Ti is taking over. Thanks for your reply @kevin_215 .
I think until folks get used to TC it will be a little odd at first. Unless of course the new user just happens to do everything right the first time. Here’s what I have learned the past few days that has made all the difference.
Because the wire, and consequently the wicking material, reaches temperature faster when the wick is dry, if the atomizer isn’t wicking properly the result will be a very weak vape. This is different from non-TC mods because the result there is a dry hit. This is in my opinion the most splendid thing about temp control. Whereas before I would always know my tank was empty when I got that nasty dry hit, now it simply stops producing vapor. I can’t really express my joy here…this is what vaping should have been from day one!
But back to what I’ve learned. Wicking is especially important with TC because if your wick is too tight you won’t get good flow. Too loose and you may flood out. I know…it’s always been that way. But with temp control mods, having wicks that are too tight will lead a person to think perhaps there’s something wrong with the mod.
So, I’ve got the little rebuild deck for the Joyetech Ego One and had it built with Ni. I knew it was solid but wasn’t getting good vapor. Then my Titanium wire came in. I rebuilt with Titanium, only this time I had run out of cotton squares. All I had left was the backing material to the squares and so, determined to try Ti for the first time, I used this to wick. I knew at the time it was looser than the cotton I had used, but thought whatever, I just must try this NOW!
When I first fired it up I couldn’t believe the volume of vapor. And I suspected it may have wicked more liquid and would soon flood…I kept looking after each puff to the air holes, but nothing. I went through the whole tank. Then I got to the end of the tank and again…very little vapor just like before on my Nickel build. Filled up…bam. Vapor again.
To me this seems silly now and altogether too obvious. But for years I’ve been dealing with the dry hits as my indicator I’m empty or have a tight wick. So I feel like the thinking has to change. When there is little to no vapor I think the FIRST thing to check after confirming the settings is the wick. Oh my, I’m a happy vapor these days
I must try Ti I have heard bad things about titanium oxide so have held back but reading this its a must cos im sick n f… tired of building with Ni I shall order some from Stealth vape tomorrow me thinks
A lot of various post about Ti. You may find some answers here.
I got some Ti but it looks like it has patchs of dark spots on it is this bad wire? should I buy the more expesive stuff from stealthvape.co.uk?
Try cleaning it with alcohol - I know @Jondamon has even used sandpaper. For my wire, a piece of tissue with vodka is enough to clean it. But it’s really dirty. Always clean your wire before building!
I use temperature control exclusively with all my devices. I started out with ni200 but as soon as I found titanium wire it was over for nickel. I used Ti01 in ni200 mode until I got a device that supported titanium. Now I’m waiting for my Dna200 to arrive so I can mix and match anything!!
I just got mine yesterday. Now I’m studying on all this thing can do. I’m giving myself time to understand all it can do before I go live. I also exclusively vape with Ti wire. I started a DNA 200 Thread that may be useful to you. Feel free to add any comments you like… welcome aboard.
I finally got my hands on some titanium wire. I bought 24 ga Ti 1. I use a Sigelei 100 W plus mod and have a velocity rda, velocity mini rda, el Cabron rda and a Steamcrave Aromamizer rdta. I normally use nichrome n80 in all of them. I’ve been reading about how good Ti is so I decided to try it out and see how it compares to n80. I built a .12 ohm Ti spaced dual coil for the velocity mini and the Aromamizer. The regular velocity is sporting a .2 ohm, double twisted 26 ga n80 dual coil and the el Cabron has a .4 ohm double twisted 28 ga n80 dual coil. I juiced them all with Cuttwoodspy’s Unicorn Milk, sat my wife down and had a Vape off! Out of the rda’s the regular velocity won. I was surprised that the n80 beat the Ti but it could just be the rda. The velocity mini is my wife’s and I don’t normally use it. But what surprised me the most is that the Steamcrave Aromamizer rdta tasted the best out of all of them! My wife thought so too. I really couldn’t believe it. I’m a dripper. I almost always drip. I drip at home. I drip and drive. The only time I use a tank is when I go fishing. Before I got the Aromamizer I used an Atlantis with a .3 ohm coil at 70 watts. It wasn’t bad but the flavour just doesn’t compare with dripping. I got the Aromamizer a week or 2 ago and like it better than the Atlantis but even with a n80 build it still doesn’t compare to my drippers. But OMG with Ti it is even better! As soon as I’m done typing I’m going to put a Ti build in the regular velocity and see how it is! The other thing about the Ti is how easy it is. No getting the drill out and twisting up wire. No dry firing and pinching and strumming coils so they work evenly and properly. Just wrap up a coil. Stretch it out. Push it back together so it isn’t touching and mount it. I saw Pro Vapes pictures and little tutorial on making a spaced coil. I did that and it was as simple as could be!
I guess the other thing that surprised me that my Sigelei would fire a .12 ohm coil. My wife has a Sigelei 75 tc and I first built a Ti coil for her velocity mini to try out in temp control. It was pretty awesome on that. 400 degrees at 50 watts. I then decided to try it on my Sigelei. It’s only supposed to fire down to .15 but it worked at .12. Then I built the exact same coil for the Aromamizer and the Vape off commenced!
Nickel is not safe to vape any more than Ti is. Nickel actually produces toxic fumes at a lower temperature than Ti. We cut both metals in the Aerospace shop where I work. You can smell the fumes coming off of the Inconel we cut which is a nickel based material. Titanium doesn’t produce any fumes that I have noticed. And Ti is much more heat resistent. You can hit it with a torch and place your hand on it shortly after. Because of that I would never use Nickel or Nichrome which also has a high Nickel content. To each their own. But I have cut metal most of my life. I will be trying Titanium here in a few days. I am still leary of it. But not as much so as Nickel.
My Sigelei will go to .1 ohm just fine.
I’m hoping to update this thread. Are there any new Ti users that would care to share their thoughts on Ti and vaping. This is for the good and the bad. We at ELR pride ourselves as being very informative and I’d just like to know if there are any new comments and what you think.
I am having some problems getting Ti to work. I got 26g Ti grade1 wire from lighting vapes today in the mail. Since early this afternoon I have been trying to get a build that would work in both a velocity dripper and a Lemo tank on the IPV4 with the upgrade already installed that gives you Ti mode. No luck so far.
I went with 26gauge because that is the largest wire the Lemo tank will comfortably fit trapping the wire under the screws. I am using Cotton Bacon version 2 and the issue I am having is the mod keeps flashing dry coil. You can even feel it in the vape. I remembered reading several people saying they are using Ti wire in nickel mode so I tried that also first hit was great then burnt cotton taste instantly on the second hit. While in Nickel mode I had the temp set at 220F down from the 350F I was at in Ti mode.
I really don’t think it is a wicking issue because on the Velocity dripper it does the same thing on the first draw even after dripping 20 drops of liquid directly on the coil. Coil and wick are soaking wet but the mod is still flashing dry coil rapidly while drawing on it.
In both devices I have done 8 wraps on 3mm bit spaced coils and I also did the alcohol cleaning of the wire before use. I am getting a reading of .355 ohm
I have been using nickel wire in both atty’s with the same mod successfully for several months now with no issues at all and with the same build 26g 8 wraps 3mm bit .08 ohms roughly.
So far Ti has been a horrible experience for me. I hope someone can help figure this out so I can see what all the praise about better flavor is all about.
If we were in the same room I would hand you my coil winder with 2.5mm mandrel and have you do 7 wraps dual spaced on the velocity and 5 wraps for the Leno. Wick as normal and set mod to Ti. Start off at 400f and 40 watts/joules. Then if not hot enough adjust temp up 10 deg at a time up to 500f then if still not right start going up on watts/joules 5 at a time. This has been my procedure and I always find my sweet spot. Been using mostly 22ga Ti but use 26 in my Goblin mini.
What you’re describing does sound like a wicking issue but as you explained what you’re doing you may be able to rule that out. Good luck.