Design Features you would Like to see in the ELR RTA!

I like it!!!

Ok, here’s all you need to do for reverse engineering.

No RTA - make an RDTA just like the Aromamizer except rather than the funnel top with the awkward drip tip connector make it flat like the Subtank Mini with a fill slot like the Lemo 2.

RDA - not my main focus in life but a velocity style deck is a must! My idea is rotating/threaded ring with 3.5mm SS tubing for focusing air intake directly on coils. These wouldn’t go in perfectly horizontal but rather at an angle like 35deg or so, angled down and of course higher than the coil. It wouldn’t need to be long at all, just long enough to direct and focus the air.


That would require a machine similar to a Mazak Integrex, which 99.9% of machine shops can’t afford. I suppose a fixture could be made to hold the upper portion of the tank in at the proper angles to machine the holes. But it wouldn’t be too terribly difficult. The tank would just have to have a feature machined into it to align it on the fixture. I don’t have a Lemo 2. Is that a tank I should get?

If you like single coil tanks then yes, the Lemo 2 is fantastic. I traded an Ohmega for it and glad I did. Then I had a buddy send me an Ohmega :wink: Like a Christmas all the time.

The Dark Horse RDA (not known as a flavor RDA) uses a ring for air intake. Maybe look at that design . The ring sits on the main chamber and then the top screws down over it. Pressure sets the ring in place and prevents it moving.

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Oh hell yeah, that fill slot on the Lemo 2 is awesome. No problems with pressure build up like the Ohmega and the Crown when you screw the top back on. The TFV4 is a somewhat good design, but clunky. I get so tired of the gasket pulling out when I fill it and remove the bottle. Plus it’s messy as hell.

We need to start a new thread in the hardware section :wink:

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The one and only complaint I have with this dripper is no Single Coil option. I have modified mine by closing off the air holes on one side to make it a single coil dripper. That is my flavor testing device as I am not really a fan of drippers

Right? I was thinking the same thing. We all know what works and what doesn’t. It would be so cool to have an ELR RDA or tank…just to have the Chinese copy it. LOL

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Imitation is the highest form of flattery! Well, when it comes to the Chinese it seems they’ll copy anything :frowning:

Also the ELR logo (the two flasks) needs to be etched into the sides. on the other side (bottom section) and something on the top section or bottom next to the 510 etched to say LordVapor.

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Ok made it here had to go do something. I love the velocity deck but I am still a single coil user so I had to modify mine to work BETTER for single coil builds.


What I used was marine grade metal epoxy. Possibly not the best thing to do but it makes using a dripper much more pleasurable to me. I would have gladly paid a little extra for a second cap section with air holes only on one side and I can not believe there are not others out there that would enjoy the same.

Now onto the tank design. I am liking all of the ideas so far but I still think a tank capable of single or dual coil builds with adjustable air flow from fully closed off to wide open enough for good direct lung hits would set this tank apart from all others. Also an easy deck to build and top fill that does not leak when filling.

I only own the original Lemo and 1 kayfun 3.1 so I can not give you good tank designs ideas in comparison to other tanks out there.

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RTA…Refillable Tank Atomizer…A refill port accessible without the need to remove the entire tank assembly from your mod …Air flow control, again, without the need to remove the tank assembly from the mod…smooth action firm adjustability from open to close…operable during the hit, as well…Actually I am in the process of designing some tweaks on my LemoDrop…and these are the two biggest issues with that RTA…A shame, because it’s an easy build with great flavor…:slight_smile:

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After thinking a bit if you were to use the velocity style deck and get air from the bottom I guess if there was a way to block off the air hole and possibly the juice channels on one side that would accomplish the single and dual coil aspect. But probably an engineering and manufacturing nightmare unless there was a way to do 2 decks one single coil and one dual coil and make them easy to swap out.

I have started reverse engineering the Aromamizer just to get a design to start working with. I have to wait to suck the rest of the juice out of it to get much farther LOL. I managed to finish the drip tip though…


I dont have an aramorizer so I cant compare, but I am not a hug fan of 510 drip tips, sorry. I like a big fat delrin chimney and I have not seen one of those that incorporates the spatter shield. . .would take a ton of real estate. I like a delrin chimney because I’ve nearly chipped a tooth several times on the bumpy roads where I live and also out of clumsiness. The big chimneys really seem to bring the flavor. . .I wish someone would just design a new huge cap for the TFV4 even. . .drive out the pin and add one that sticks with an o-ring and includes a seal to block off the juice port.

RE the velocity deck. I feel it sinks a rather large amount of heat from the coils. It is wonderful to build, but I think it makes the atty a bit of a pig on power. I like the Ohm ega design, but would prefer set screws and for the holes to sit closer to the air inlets.

I think creating air turbulence around the coil, preferably from the bottom helps to remove the boiled off vapor and is therefore preferable. I am a big fan of big juice wells. . .this is my current complaint on the Ohm ega as well as the very high coil height relative to the air ports make for either long wicks or long legs.

Just some thoughts, I am an engineer also, although not ME. I’ve gone so far as to design a mechanical mod in Solidworks. I still plan on having it made, but its like 90% done and the rest of the work is drawings etc… .that I really dont want to do. It is all copper and designed to handle massive current with little voltage drop. . .it has a trigger instead of a button. Pricewise you just cant compete with the Chinese and they will stay cheap as long as R&D to them means “receive and duplicate.” (Just like America in our industrial revolution BTW.)

Very good points! I will take those into consideration. I have Solidworks, but am not real good with it. I do all my modeling in Mastercam. Although not quite as powerful, it gets the job done.

My plan is to model up a few tanks to get a feel for how they work. Then design a new one based off of input here. It’s mostly for fun, but I am a CNC Programmer so I have the means to make one.

And yeah, we could never compete with the Chinese. It’s really amazing how far they have come with producing a very cheap, yet quality product. The Crown is a perfect example. And the Aromamizer is a beautifully machined tank. Without having Swiss type machinery, it would be very hard to produce anything cheaply in small quantities.

Although, the shop I work at is right next door to a shop that has Swiss machines, and they are always looking for more work.

My company bought a Chinese mill. For $2500 it has 4 axis encoders with readouts (the table and the spindle are encoded), coolant pumps, lights, and it’s gear driven. Very easy to change speeds. I’m certain I am leaving stuff out. I would buy one for my house if I didn’t know what tools cost. Yeah, I have no idea how they do it and at least brand new it’s about like the lower-end Bridgeports for tolerances. The tables have wicked backlash, but it doesnt matter much when using encoders. Did I mention you could program it?

If you are interested sometime maybe we could have a chat about my mechanical mod too. I haven’t ran the design passed anyone that actually makes stuff (I am a HACK in the machine shop, and this needs lathe work.). I’ve designed it based on available stock, mostly from McMaster.

That would be cool. If I knew anything about electronics I would probably want to tackle something like that next. But things just confuse me if it doesn’t have moving parts :smiley:

Edit… most people see a part that looks like it needs to be made on a lathe. But just about anything can be made on a mill if you have the right tooling. A buddy of mine is a lathe guru and I had to prove to him this is true a few times before he believed me.

I bet in the right hands it could be done with a pocket knife :smile:

I spent some time trying to figure out a cool RDA to go with my mech. mod, and I think making a mech mod would be a lot easier than a tank. That said, I think the collective knowledge of the folks on this forum should be able to come up with a pretty rad tank. . .and it will probably be shipping from China before we can decide on the color scheme.

I am in though. I am not even a novice in SW, but if you ever need some of the advanced functionality we can exchange step files etc. . .

Oh. . .on the avatar it says my nick is already taken. I need to see if it is taken up by one of my websites or something. I know there was one other TRW years ago though.

I just upload my forum images here on the site. I use Gravatar for the calculator pages.

Sounds great man. When I get this going I would love to have your input and will share the STP files with you. We will have to send them back and forth so we each have the latest version.

Do you have a set of calipers handy?

This may be true after the draw, but during firing I have to disagree. And to me this may even be considered a desirable thing to aid in cooling…to a point.[quote=“therabidweasel, post:24, topic:37992”]
I am not a hug fan of 510 drip tips, sorry. I like a big fat delrin chimney and I have not seen one of those that incorporates the spatter shield

Check out the Steam Crave glass RDA. The top cap utilizes a (maybe rubber) wide dripper connection. The stock metal drip tip can be used but if you prefer you can use the supplied 510 adapter. I was sent one of these RDAs for review but I won’t be able to even start as the glass lasted me a day. Got a crack from who knows where. At any rate I will try to snap some photos and post them here. I’m using a 510 metal/acrylic on the adapter because I’m not a fan of metal drip tips at all.

The top cap of the Aromamizer is done.


Yes, several calipers, always…I blueprint motors.