I have searched the forum but couldn’t find any answer to this issue I have.
Every time my battery indicator is showing an empty battery, I’m left with about 3.7V in my batteries. I know where I can set the software battery cut-off in escribe, in the mod tab, but where can I change the setting so that the battery only shows empty when it’s near that cut-off (which is 3.2V and not 3.7V)?
At this point, there’s about 50% left in my batteries but i have not the faintest idea how much is left unless I take them out and measure with another device.
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Either use the Battery Analyzer or simply input a discharge curve yourself, with 4.2volts at 100% and 3.2volts at 0%.
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Have you set you battery size? And the type of battery? Also move those last two bars to the left until you have a smooth curve.
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I didn’t set it properly, but I have now… no visible difference though.
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I notice that you have your cell soft cutoff set a 3.2v, which is very high!
This shouldn’t be confused with a hard cutoff, which most other mods use. The soft cutoff also includes voltage sag, so you might have 3.7v left on the batteries, but when firing it drops to 3.2v and you hit your soft cutoff, it will throttle back on the wattage to keep it above 3.2 and you might also get a weak battery message.
The default soft cutoff is iirc 2.8v, but it can also be set lower as long as you don’t go below the 2.5v that most batteries are rated for. (Edit: and leave a little headroom for safety)
This however shouldn’t affect the battery indicator, as that is solely calculated based on the discharge curve.
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It’s just the indication that drops to 0%. I can happily keep on vaping for another half day if I want… there’s no cut off or warning about low battery voltage.
The only issue I have is that I don’t see what’s left in my batteries. Usually I charge them overnight and by the next night if I’ve used it all day, I’m still at about 3.75V… still plenty left but minimal battery charge indication.
I don’t mind the cut-off set to 3.2V, I don’t have the need to have them drop all the way to 0% (or 2.5V), my headroom is just a little more than what you choose 
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If you have changed the battery type to lithium ion and not polymer, as in your screenshot, and the discharge curve has 3.2 at 0%, then I don’t have any explanation. As I said it uses this discharge curve to calculate what is left on the battery.
Did you remember to upload this to your mod after changing the battery type?
You could also try to run the battery analyzer, instructions for this can be found on the Evolv forum, or post your problem there.
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These are all the options that I have.
I don’t know if it has anything to do with it… I’ll ask around on the evolv forums.
Thanks for everyone’s help. If anyone has any clue, feel free to still post your ideas here 
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LiFePO4 is probably gonna be close as you get for a lithium Ion setting, kinda oddly specific for a battery type considering there are about 6 different types. I looked up my Samsung 18650 30Q batteries data sheet and its a Li-aluminum type, just to give you a idea.
Here’s a link to read up on Lithium batteries and their counterparts http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion
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I have mine set to Lithium Polymer
2-cell
Click the Watt-Hour Calculator. For 18650 I use 2500Mah 3.7V (x2)
It then calculates 18.5 WH
Softcell Cutoff 2.8V
You should be able to D/L a CSV file for your brand of battery. I use a CSV for my Samsung 25R’s. I have CSV’s for Samsung 25R, LG/HG2 and factory if anyone needs 'em!
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Seems to me that one of my VT133’s had that same issue when I first got it. I was using Samsung 25r’s and somebody on ELR sent me a csv file that solved the issue.
I will try to figure out who that was and let you know.
EDIT: @Sprkslfly do you have any suggestions ? If memory serves me right I had this same issue until I loaded the CSV file you sent me.
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If you’re using anything other than the battery brands that already have profiles posted here, you really need to do the full measurement/test procedure for your specific batteries.
Ideally you want to do it with a new set, and marry them. But if all you have is all you have, use them, and run the test.
Yes, you want to use “lithium polymer”, as LifePo4 is a very different animal, and only a lab environment is going to use the “power supply” option (for other reasons).
Basically (and I’m going from memory here), you’ll want to setup a deck with enough wire to where it measures exactly one ohm, then set the test up, and let it run.
The length of time is going to be dependant on the mah rating of your batteries, and IIRC, you want to start with a set that’s around 30% charge on them. Because it’s going to discharge them first, and then charge them. Then discharge them again while measuring the drop rate.
I strongly recommend setting your test area up in such a way that the wire is suspended over (or within) a NON FLAMMABLE surface. Because if things get bumped, or whatever, the last thing you’re going to want to do is reach out and chance grabbing a glowing hot wire. (I used SS, and the wire was about 4-5 inches long, on either side of the loop. 8-10 inches total)
You can put a frying pan under it, etc, but you want to make sure that it doesn’t short against anything during the test.
The other piece of caution I strongly recommend is plan to be in the same room with it for anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. Again, depends on your mah.
IMO It would be FOOLISH and NEGLIGENT to walk away from an open heat source. Even if there’s no kids or animals present. 
It’s time consuming, but if you want accurate battery bars (not to mention proper operation of the device), then the only answer is to run a battery calibration…and create a custom CSV.
Hope this helps!
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This is incorrect, and will cause problems.
Please make sure to use “Lithium polymer”
See also:
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I’m using different married battery sets… vtc5, vtc6 and 30Q. Does that mean I have to hook up my mod to escribe every time I change the batteries? 
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That’s entirely possible… That’s also part of the reason for profiles.
But try it after the first set. It might be a glitch.
What mod is it?
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hcigar vt250
I’ve played a little bit with the settings (without the battery test) and it seems to be better. I’m going through a full cycle now to see how it goes. If it goes well, I’ll show what I’ve done.
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I also have a DNA 250. It is Wismec. I use 2 different sets. 3 LGh2 and 3 Sony VTC5A.
Can each profile be for a different battery?
Meaning I’d have 2 titanium profiles. One for the Sony and the other for the LGh2
If the file works for 3 batteries of LGhg2, please send it to me.
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