These are all the options that I have.
I don’t know if it has anything to do with it… I’ll ask around on the evolv forums.
Thanks for everyone’s help. If anyone has any clue, feel free to still post your ideas here 
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LiFePO4 is probably gonna be close as you get for a lithium Ion setting, kinda oddly specific for a battery type considering there are about 6 different types. I looked up my Samsung 18650 30Q batteries data sheet and its a Li-aluminum type, just to give you a idea.
Here’s a link to read up on Lithium batteries and their counterparts http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion
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I have mine set to Lithium Polymer
2-cell
Click the Watt-Hour Calculator. For 18650 I use 2500Mah 3.7V (x2)
It then calculates 18.5 WH
Softcell Cutoff 2.8V
You should be able to D/L a CSV file for your brand of battery. I use a CSV for my Samsung 25R’s. I have CSV’s for Samsung 25R, LG/HG2 and factory if anyone needs 'em!
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Seems to me that one of my VT133’s had that same issue when I first got it. I was using Samsung 25r’s and somebody on ELR sent me a csv file that solved the issue.
I will try to figure out who that was and let you know.
EDIT: @Sprkslfly do you have any suggestions ? If memory serves me right I had this same issue until I loaded the CSV file you sent me.
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If you’re using anything other than the battery brands that already have profiles posted here, you really need to do the full measurement/test procedure for your specific batteries.
Ideally you want to do it with a new set, and marry them. But if all you have is all you have, use them, and run the test.
Yes, you want to use “lithium polymer”, as LifePo4 is a very different animal, and only a lab environment is going to use the “power supply” option (for other reasons).
Basically (and I’m going from memory here), you’ll want to setup a deck with enough wire to where it measures exactly one ohm, then set the test up, and let it run.
The length of time is going to be dependant on the mah rating of your batteries, and IIRC, you want to start with a set that’s around 30% charge on them. Because it’s going to discharge them first, and then charge them. Then discharge them again while measuring the drop rate.
I strongly recommend setting your test area up in such a way that the wire is suspended over (or within) a NON FLAMMABLE surface. Because if things get bumped, or whatever, the last thing you’re going to want to do is reach out and chance grabbing a glowing hot wire. (I used SS, and the wire was about 4-5 inches long, on either side of the loop. 8-10 inches total)
You can put a frying pan under it, etc, but you want to make sure that it doesn’t short against anything during the test.
The other piece of caution I strongly recommend is plan to be in the same room with it for anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. Again, depends on your mah.
IMO It would be FOOLISH and NEGLIGENT to walk away from an open heat source. Even if there’s no kids or animals present. 
It’s time consuming, but if you want accurate battery bars (not to mention proper operation of the device), then the only answer is to run a battery calibration…and create a custom CSV.
Hope this helps!
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This is incorrect, and will cause problems.
Please make sure to use “Lithium polymer”
See also:
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I’m using different married battery sets… vtc5, vtc6 and 30Q. Does that mean I have to hook up my mod to escribe every time I change the batteries? 
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That’s entirely possible… That’s also part of the reason for profiles.
But try it after the first set. It might be a glitch.
What mod is it?
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hcigar vt250
I’ve played a little bit with the settings (without the battery test) and it seems to be better. I’m going through a full cycle now to see how it goes. If it goes well, I’ll show what I’ve done.
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I also have a DNA 250. It is Wismec. I use 2 different sets. 3 LGh2 and 3 Sony VTC5A.
Can each profile be for a different battery?
Meaning I’d have 2 titanium profiles. One for the Sony and the other for the LGh2
If the file works for 3 batteries of LGhg2, please send it to me.
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Most of this is just general information to “the public at large” (especially since it appears you have the idea down)… But I thought some things might be worth adding to the topic for clarification of anyone who might still be uncertain of the purpose (and usefulness) of battery profiles.
Correct, and yes, that’s how you’d want to use them! (For example, I’d name one battery profile “250c, LG-H2, 3 batt”, and the other “250c, SonyVTC5a, 3 batt”)
EG:
Profile 1 uses the LG HG2 3-battery profile, with the intent of being used in TC mode.
Profile 2 uses the LG HG2 3-battery profile, in power mode.
Profile 3 uses the Sony VTC5a 3-battery profile, in TC mode.
Profile 4 uses the Sony VTC5a 3-battery profile, in power mode.
My reasoning behind the particular naming layout (above) is, if you start accumulating more DNA devices (which is likely), you’ll begin to have more battery profiles.
The thing is, you’re still going to have to run the Battery Analyzer for each brand, and model of battery. (Or find the 3 battery profile for it)
Once you have the base profiles built up, they’re designed to be “universal” across DNA devices.
The only other distinguishing characteristic (in the case of 18650’s) is how many cells (batteries) the device uses:
Any single cell profile (think 75c) should work the same* in any 1 cell DNA device, (regardless of device branding: Wismec, Hcigar, LostVape, etc), as long as the chosen battery brand and model are the same.
Any dual cell profile (eg: 200, 133, 166) should work the same* in any 2 cell DNA device, (regardless of device branding), as long as the chosen battery brand and model are the same.
Any triple cell profile (250c) should work the same* in any 3 cell DNA device, (regardless of device branding), as long as the chosen battery brand and model are the same.
/* note = bear in mind, that due to hardware revisions, there may be a slight variance in accuracy of the battery meter, due to the fact that the efficiency of certain devices has been reported as being up to 15% different!!
So, depending on how different (and how much this affects things [read as: actual performance, or just OCD]) you may need/want to have a separate profile to account for the efficiency difference.
I don’t have the firsthand experience across the range of DNA devices to comment with certainty, which is why I’m noting the possibility of such being a factor.
It’s also why I’m suggesting the naming convention above. So you don’t have to go back and relabel (or worse, redo the actual battery analyzer tests) IF it turns out that the efficiency of a given board series is different enough to warrant requiring a unique profile.
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I tried and did not work. After thinking about it, I think I misunderstood your comments. While you were talking about battery profiles, I was talking about the 8 profile tabs that one could choose from on escribe or the mod.
This means that every time I swap my batteries, I have to go back to escribe and upload the battery file.
I’m having issues with my usb cable (think it broke) so I couldn’t access escribe for a while.
I got it (kind of) fixed by setting the battery specs (VTC6, mAh 3000, 3 batteries, 3.7V I believe) in escribe as described above and then smoothing out the graph.
I use VTC6, VTC5 and 30Q’s. There are slight differences but this profile works more than good enough for me. I think for some I still have a tiny little bit of a charge bar left but I can live with that. Previously it was all gone while I still had 50% charge in them. Now I have a pretty good idea at what level my batteries are.
Once I can connect my mod again, I’ll still upload a screenshot.
As was I.
Again, you should be able to set up a battery profile per profile tab. The only thing I can think of, is that you might not have pushed the update through. Either that, or it didn’t take.
Either way, I’m sorry your experiencing difficulty in getting things like you need them.
Just FYI, not all USB cables are created equal. Especially the cheap cables that are included as freebies with some devices.
More than once I’ve been scratching my head when I grab a short USB cable, only to find it’s a “power only” cable. At which point I immediately cut it in half, or run it out to the vehicle (since I only need power there), depending on the quality of the cable. 
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I’m not sure what I did wrong.
While on profile tab #3, I select manufacturer interface, mod, upload csv file for LG hg2. Then hit upload.
Then I go to profile tab #3 and do the same for Sony VTC5a. Then hit upload.
But it looks like what I have is whatever I uploaded last.
I’m gonna give it another shot.
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You might also ask on the Evolv forums!
There’s a few really good folks there.
(Don’t forget to mention which board, and which mod you have. Several vendors have boards customized specifically for their desires! Vapor Shark is one such that comes to mind.)
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Well. That’s just silly.
I don’t know how Brandon could have overlooked such a simple idea. You’d think that if he considered the idea of different profiles for wire types, etc. that batteries would be an automatic next progression…
I apologize for previously misleading you. It was not intentional. I never tried it, as all my batteries are 25r5’s, and I haven’t had the need to try what you’ve asked, nor did I have the ability to test it personally. But my understanding has always been that each profile was fully independent. (it has been in all other aspects IME)
Obviously that’s not the case with respect to batteries currently. Let’s hope Brandon addresses and rectifies this in a future software update. Obviously the hardware is capable.
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