Looking for a 22mm mech mod tube. A clone please.... because i'm cheap!

I’m after a nice sleeeeek SS tube to thro my 22mm drippers on. Looked at a few on Ali and Fasttech but i really don’t know what i’m looking at… any suggestions/recommedations?

might be wise to ask for some battery advice too…

You could also check out 3fvape.com for clones, they got quite a big collection on tube mods. The Petri clones look good, i think 3f call them PTI.
I only use Sony VCT5a in my mech mods and i have absolutely no problems with them.

Here’s a 22mm SS tube. Got no idea how this one is but for the price you could try it out.

You could also check this site out since they got loads of different clones.


Can’t help you with sites where you can get clones, but now is the time to buy older mech tubes! Because of dropping interest in them and all this temp control voodoo, they’re being sold for less than what’s allowed :laughing: If you were in China, you could get a nice Praxis clone for 19 RMB (about 4 USD?)…

Anyhow, back on topic.
Fire buttons: Personally I wouldn’t recommend getting a cloned tube mod that is spring loaded and has an outer ring as a lock. Like the original Caravela. When cloned those tend to get stuck, not fire properly etc. I would recommend getting a clone with a magnet switch, like most newer ones have. I have a Subzero clone, for instance, that’s just stellar - never jammed, hits like a fright train and all shiny n stuff. Generally, don’t try to get the cheapest clone, they’re shit mostly, go for a moderately less cheap clone. If possible, get one by SJMY or SXK or LH (liehun), they’re really good.
Tube body: There are some pretty nice clones around in copper, brass, stainless or a combination. In principle, copper is copper, so you’ll have better conductivity - but, compared to authentics, the clones’ copper isn’t as high quality and purity, so you’ll get a tiny bit more internal resistance… Beware of copper (and sometimes brass) because they’re generally not coated when cloned so if you don’t like the oxidized look, you’ll have to polish those rods. (insert silly jokes and immature giggles please:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:)
Oh and if you’re choosing a clone with a logo or something on it, it’s quite possible it won’t look as pretty as on the pics. Cloned tube mods look their best with no logos, lol…
510 Connection: And lastly some thoughts on the connector. Some adjustable 510s can be a PITA when cloned, but most are pretty ok. Depending on how much wattage you use and whether your drippers’ positive pin is extruding >0.5mm, you could go for a hybrid, where your atty’s positive pin connects directly to the cell’s positive terminal - if you want a lot of power. For >0.5ohms it really doesn’t make much of a difference and can cause you a headache if you forgot your OCD pills :wink:

I hope that was somehow helpful! Just remember: don’t go for the cheapest (except for when it’s on sale!), the third cheapest is the best bang for the buck!


One of the top five mech mods/makers
It’s telescopic, fits any 18xxx battery
It is CHEAP.
You can get blemished in black or grey atm
You can get one all copper for $30
They ship from USA or Japan [?]



Phenomenal writeup @Naseschwarz!!

Thanks for taking the time, as well as sharing your experience and insight.

I’m still kind of halfway curious about (wanting a mech) all these… But I love the safety in the electronics. Only because the older I get, the more prone I get to forgetting things. But, at the same time, I think as large a tendency as I have to being a creature of habit, once I nail down what I prefer for that setup, it will likely never change. So there’s nothing to worry about changing (once it’s drilled in to the memory).

The only question that comes to mind is: Do you feel that mechs are geared towards any particular type of atty (tank/dripper/etc)? Or are they as “universal” as regulated mods are (across the board)?

Oh! And fire buttons. Bottom or side preference?
Could you elaborate a bit more on the magnetic switches?

Thanks for the info!

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Magnetic switches versus spring switches.

The spring in one switch pushes the contacts apart.
The opposing magnets push the contacts apart in the other.


Wouldn’t they get weaker in a shorter time due to being retained in such close proximity? Or am I over thinking it?

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Not all magnets are created equally.

As usual, cheap parts result in malfunction, quality lasts.

I have a mech that’s several years old, and still buttery smooth and reliable.

The magnetic switch has much better conductivity…which is what a mech mod is all about.

It’s also why a good quality copper mech is the best [conductivity], albeit the hardest to keep
clean, and the easiest to bugger up the threads.


No, I definitely realize that! That’s why I was asking. It seems hard to think that they would use something like a rare earth magnet in a sub-$100 mech mod was all. And I can’t afford (or at least, won’t spend that) until much further into my vaping life/experience level.

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The BV Beacon is the best mech mod available at this time.

High quality, non-clone, uses any 18xxx battery, and can be bought at an incredible price…that’s why.

Any mech mod can still be just as dangerous as they have/will always been/be, which is why a real mech,
from a trustworthy mfg, is very important.

Please watch at least this Matt and Vanessa video, but youTube mech videos for safe usage.


I did earlier when you posted the link :wink:
Great job as always by Matt. Also appreciate the nod for ‘best available’.

Last question for you ozo! Does that one have a magnetic or mechanical switch? Didn’t see that covered in the details!

Not every mech uses the spring for conductivity. In for example the Hanged and Black Raven from Deathwish modz the spring is isolated from the rest of the mod by Delrin to avoid that it becomes conductive and these mechs hits like a freight train.

Smog mods Mongrel is also one of these hard hitting mechs and there are a lot more out there that uses a spring so saying that magnets is what gives a mech good conductivity isn’t the whole truth.

There is more factors that come into play if you ask me. The more parts a mechanical mod consists of the more voltage drop you will get. The best conductive/less voltage drop mech mods is the ones where the hybrid cap and the tube is one piece and made of good materials of course.

I’m not entirely sure that a telescopic mech is the best choice out there to be honest. On such a mech you got more places with threads and the more places with threads the more chances that you might get voltage drops. And as we all know lost voltage means that it’s not gonna hit hard.


I need to get one of these!

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www.fasttech.com They’re in China so expect a 2-4 week wait, but they’re cheap. SMPL tube mod for about $6. the batttery connect directly to your 510 pin so no voltage drop there.

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Yeah, the SMPL is a good one. Just thought of another one that pretty good and safer than your regular tube: Atto. Don’t know whether you can find one in the West? They’re the stuff over here. The Atto is incredibly tiny (you can use 18350 or 18650 btw) because it’s not a mechanical fire button. It uses a side mounted fire button that connects to a simple chip which also protects you against shorts and reverse polarity (well that isn’t really a problem in mech mods, but anyway). There are three different versions, the newest goes down to 0.2 ohms. Anything below that, the Atto won’t fire - I’m not sure whether it will destroy the chip (like a fuse) or just not fire. Can’t confirm right now, sorry.

For the fire button preference, I prefer bottom for aesthetics and side for convenience! Especially with 18350, bottom fire buttons are kinda awkward for me to press. Nowadays there is only the Atto that I know of that’s side button and still being produced - that said, I’m not all up-to-date on mech mods in the West.

So, about universality. Mech mods are very, very limited compared to regulated mods. The reason is simple, you only have 4.2v to 3.6v available (theoretical value, under load the voltage drops quickly, and then you have internal resistance and such). Many people use mech tubes for high power vaping, God knows why - a 200w DNA will kick any high-end, super-shiny, ultra-low-resistivity tube mod’s ass any time of the day, when you compare power output and cloudz, brah. So what’s the point? Skill. You need to build to that specific voltage and your battery’s capabilities to achieve the highest power output, because the higher you go in Amps, the more severe your voltage drop gets.
Anyhow, let’s not get too deep into that. With a regulated mod you can basically just whip up a build with whatever wire you have available and choose a Wattage you like. Not so much with a mech. So in the end, I mostly use my mech mods for MTL vaping around 0.5 to 1 ohms. That way you don’t stress your batts too much, you don’t have to carry several batteries around to get you through the day, but you still get to enjoy a handy mod with no fuzz.



wow! thanks to one and all for the great info and links :+1::+1:

I’m a bit dyslexic so it will take me a while to read all the info/tech specs and such but I’m going to tap on a few of the links and have a nosey around and see what i come up with :wink:

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I prefer the regulated mods too, I’m using the rx 2x3 and hardly ever use the mech mods anymore. I like to adjust my watts for max flavor.

Here’s a link to fasttech and the SMPL mods


thanks for that… being new to most things vaping i just thought i’d better ask since I don’t know shit from clay when it comes to mech mods… still getting a grip on my regulated mods :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: i’ve got a bucket load of LG 18650HG2 3.6V 3000mAh so i guess I’m good :wink: