The second post definitely contained some snark! That was a very “above most people’s heads” post you made, though. You lost people. Peace, man. I forgot to include a winky face to maintain a light-hearted vibe.
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Thanks for cluing me in to the forensic doctrine of “retroactive absolution by prior intent to post emoji” ! 
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Hi John, I am using the SMOK T-PRIV.
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I use the majesty and use 2 Clapton’s running it at 70 w with 0.176 ohm total with the 2 coils on the reload rta it works fine and I use Sony vtc 4,5,and 6 .What kinda batteries are u using.
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Everyone has given you good advice/instruction. You have a mod that can handle your coil builds, a very decent tank, good coils, and you’ll be running in TC. All check.
The only thing that needs to be verified is the manufacturer of your batts. I would personally recommend Samsung 25Rs, Sony VCTs or the LG brand. There are other brands that may work as well or better, but those are pretty much safe for your purposes. As has been stated previously, Mooch is your best friend when it comes to batteries and cheap, weak or knock-offs could lead to having a bad day.
If you can verify that the model battery is a reliable one, you should be good to go.
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Don’t worry, you don’t need an EE or a physics degree to build a coil. There are a lot of interesting physics involved in producing a vape however in a practical sense they are largely academic. Obviously, you can go as deep into the whole process as you want but it’s fine to start with understanding how much power your batteries are being asked to provide and if those batteries are capable of providing it. Over time you can start considering heat flux, heat capacity, coil mass, heat transference and the like. There comes a point where physics and three bucks can buy you a cup of coffee but not a better vape.
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Also, can we stop treating regulated mods as mechs, they are little ( poorly documented) switch mode power supply with somewhat complicated sense feedback.
Assuming input filtering is done properly ( you have no way to know) the intensity (amps) drawn from the battery depends on the power (watts) you decide to run your coil at.
In TC it is no different, you tell the mod what max power you want to run the coil at, and it regulates the input so that max power to the coil is no more than that and sensed temperature does not go too far past target temperature.
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I purchased the batts a while ago and their is no logo on them. I should probably go with Sony as that is what I always used to use. Thank you very much for the info. 
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He is Vaping at 320F as I know of no Regulated Mod that will do over 600F, and 320C is 608F which is outside the range available! So forget all the scary crap about Formaldehyde, etc.!!
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Well, back to chain-huffing "Frilly Dancing Elfin Gumdrops Magnum Enchantment Juice” featuring those sumptuous "Free Range Non-GMO Corned Beef Shank” room-notes with my UrsaMajor MaxBlast Gatling Array SuperUzi mod with newly unfettered impunity - thanks to your making everything more gooder ! 
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You don’t seem to understand. You gave all of that information based on the ridiculous assumption that OP was running coils at 608 degrees farenheit. While solid technical information is always appreciated, yours was unnecessary because nobody was going to attempt such a stupid mistake. You didn’t save the day by laying out what horrors would arise if someone was ignorant enough to run their coils that hot. You nearly (unnecessarily) scared someone away from learning a very basic part of DIY.
Yes, everyone should know what could happen if they attempt a 608 degree temperature vape. But, this was a case of poor judgment on your part. You likely won’t accept this because you seem to have convinced yourself that your judgement and intelligence are infallible. Which may explain your abuse of words like “unctous.”
Instead of owning your misstep, you doubled down and tried to make someone else feel stupid. That sucks pretty hard.
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There are a few here that think they are intellectually superior, thankfully not many.I have met many here that are, but are humble and have a talent to communicate at a level to be helpful. I have ignored that one for quite awhile, other than skim the post and move on. Interesting thought, it is a form of trolling, baffle with bullshit.
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Utter bosh. Take care not to pop a gizzard during the (unctuous) gesticulations - as your Silverback Plan specifically excludes health insurance coverage for willful acts of passive-aggressive self-abasement.
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Utter bosh… Awesome display of your intellect. Completely ignoring where you fell short. This is a most intriguing form of trolling. Love it.
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This is a very good thing to lock into your memory.
If using a single coil setup RTA with a coil rated at 0.5ohm it should read 0.5ohm or a tad higher on your device, once you burn them in.
But if using a dual coil setup with 2 (two) coils rated a 0.5ohm’s the final resistance with go down by half… inline with what @woftam was saying. So 2 (two) coils rated a 0.5ohm’s, when put into a dual coil RTA device the final over all resistance of a setup like that will read around 0.25ohm’s on your device. Personally Ive never gone below 0.15 ohm for my dual coil setups. And I use very high rated draw batteries to handle the load.
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Well stated, Freddie ! For general cases (such as when the combined individual electrical resistances are not quite of equal measured value), the parallel combined resistance (of 2 individual resistances) is equal to the multiplicative product of the individual resistance values divided by the arithmetic sum of the individual resistance values. (For any number of parallel resistances), the combined resistance is the Harmonic Mean of the individual resistance values, from Kirchhoff’s first law relating to combined currents. Note that this analytical model applies to cases of a single load-current source - not to “Stereophonic Mods” … 
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Hi all. Here is an update as to where I am currently at. I now have three (3) rda. I have a Tigertek Springer RTA, I have a Watofo Bravo RTA and a WOTOFO Bravo RTA, I have purchased SS coils of 0.15 ohm and 0.30 ohm, I built the Bravo with one Coil which is 0.15 ohm and I am using it in temp mode. I started out at 250 deg F and worked my way up to 340 deg F. I keep getting the "Temp Control error and the unit shuts off. I don’t know what else to do to make it work. Any suggestions? Thank you all for responding.
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Have you make sure the coil didn’t touch the side or bottom of build deck?
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I find that contact coils can make TC go out, also complex wire coils can have the same effect with resistance wildly changing based on how the different elements react to heat.
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