Setting Temp Control - Write Up

I know we already have these Temp Control and titanium wire usage topics that recently just started on the forums. I wanted to make a thread that digs a little deeper into understanding the proper settings to set Temperature Control at for the 2 wires that are currently available to us.

  1. Nickel Wire (Ni200)
  2. Titanium (Grade 1 & 2)

It all started with nickel wire. I bought 200 ft. from lightning vapes when I started using TC and I found that I absolutely can not stand the taste that this wire gives off. I tried pre-built coils, built my own of all resistances and still just want to throw this stuff in the garbage :pensive:. Not my cup of tea, so if anyone here that does have it and likes it wants to chime in on the specific settings they use and the do’s/dont’s, please feel free as I will not touch on Nickel wire myself.

Not sure if many know this, but I remember a few years back when titanium actually spiked for the community. There were a lot of people who tried it, but there was also a lot of speculation at the time about the safety of vaping titanium, so most people, including myself stopped.

Now those years have passed and the speculations, well, they are just speculations because we were all wrong about titanium wire when it came out. There was no temp control, just people building ridiculously low builds with it. Now, titanium has come back in full effect and stronger than ever the last few months.

Enough rambling, to my point:

  • I have figured out that with titanium wire the builds require somewhere in the temp range of 450-500F to be efficient enough to vape on.
  • This wire is not “non-resistance” wire. There is a resistance to it, although it is very small, so do not be fooled. If it were non-resistance, the results would not be pretty.
  • I like the vape particularly between 35-50J on a .2 dual coil (2.5mm inner diameter, spaced, 6 wraps, 28g).
  • I like to vape around 450º-550ºF depending on my builds.
  • If you have TC set below 400ºF and wonder why you are not getting a good hit, it is because TC is not high enough for the resistance of the coil you are vaping on.
  • You will not produce any toxins from the titanium, even at the maximum TC any Temp Control mod on the market goes to, IF you use the TC the RIGHT way.
  • The state at which oxidation is formed (TiO₂) does not occur until +600ºF.
  • The alpha phase in pure titanium is characterized by a hexagonal close-packed crystalline structure that remains stable from room temperature to approximately 1,620°F. The beta phase in pure titanium has a body-centered cubic structure, and is stable from approximately 1,620°F to the melting point of about 3,040°F. Taken from here.

THE MOST IMPORTANT POINT HERE:

You MUST, MUST, MUST, sync the resistance of the coil to the box mod BEFORE you do a pull with TC on. This means you need to set the resistance of the coil on the box mod while at room temperature. Once the mod is fired, the resistance of the coil will rise. If the resistance of the coil rises and you re-sync it, the mod is going to push more power to the coil = more heat, resulting in what most people who have TC and don’t use it properly call “TC not working”. If this is done, the cotton will be burned and you will create toxins, which is very unsafe to inhale. I could write an entirely new topic about why the coil does this, so I will not begin to explain why it happens, I’ll keep it simple. If you are interested in wondering why this is so, just ask me. I have an Electrical Engineering degree and would be happy to explain.

Here is a play by play of how I set my coil, wick, and TC (maybe this will help understand what I’m saying better):

  1. Clean your wire with some rubbing alcohol, just wipe it down thoroughly and rinse it off.
  2. Wrap your coil. I like spaced coils, as TC acts funky with contact coils. I wrap on a 2.4mm screwdriver always and try to wrap as even as possible. I scrunch the coil once I have as many wraps as I want, this makes the spaces closer and even. They don’t have to be perfectly spaced, just make sure it’s enough for the naked eye not to notice.
  3. Now mount the coil to the deck. Important point - NEVER dry burn Ti like you would kanthal. I use what is called the “pulsing method” and fire at 7W for 1-2 seconds at a time about 2 times, the coil should barely turn a deep red (this is the heat stage before it glows orange like you would with kanthal). NEVER let Ti glow orange, EVER (this will create the oxides I discussed above). This pulsing method also acts as a cleanser for all the machining oil as well.
  4. You’re ready to wick now. I use Koh Gen Do organic Japanese cotton, best stuff I have ever tried. I cut my sheet appropriately for the inner diameter of my coils, I normally do one piece and cut it in half for both my coils. Each RDA, RTA, RBA, Subtank, etc., will require its own method of wicking to work properly in its application.
  5. Important step - here is what I call “setting the wick”. This is where you can find out the exact temperature that the cotton is going to start scorching, aka. dry hitting. If you do not do this step properly, TC will not work as advertised to eliminate the dry hits. Once you have wick properly inserted in the coil (nice and snug), do not wet the wick yet, and turn TC on and set to a low temperature (I start at 325º) along with a low Joule setting (I use 20J).
  6. Once the temp and Joules are set, fire the atomizer for 10 continuous seconds, this is about the longest pull I would imagine anyone would do. The picture below represents the attempts of finding the sweet spot of the build I just finished doing. The first time will not be correct, as the temp will probably be too low, I turn it up in increments of 25ºF. The far left brownness that you see is too high of a temperature and started to singe the cotton. I turned down to 375ºF and fired again for 10 seconds, resulting in the middle discoloration (this is almost where you want it, so you’re close). Finally, I turned my temp down to 360ºF and fired for 10 seconds resulting in the far right portion, pretty much clean white cotton and not singed. My rule of thumb here - find the sweet spot and set 5-10ºF below that. THIS IS WHAT YOU MUST DO TO SET THE WICK SO YOU WILL NOT GET A DRY HIT!
  7. Once you have set your wick and found the sweet spot, you’re ready to wet that wick and vape away!

It works properly when set properly. People need to know this information because most people who get TC and setup titanium wire on it are experimenting with it as their first time or just are not familiar with it.

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Very nice post! ; )

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Thank you. I felt like the information would be useful to a lot of people.

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with all the tc devices and alot of nubies vapin with them this is a really nice idea to put this out there… kudos to u!!!

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Thoughts on dry firing gunky Ti coils to get them clean again?

I’m buying my first TC mod next week and even after vaping for 2 years I still don’t have a clue how to use it. On top of that I don’t understand the whole resistance/ohms/watts/volts. I know what I need to build and vape safely, but I can’t tell you why to any of it. So here is my question, do all TC mods allow titanium coil use or do I need to look for something specific to this type of wire? I’m looking at the SMOKTech X Cube II 160W Box Mod, Sigelei 150w TC or the iPV4S. I am about the flavor so anything that would help flavor, well i’m in. Any help or input about the devices would be a great help.

I’ve been looking into the NI200 and there is a lot of people who believe that it isn’t safe due to the nickle being soft and leeching into the vapor. Do any of you all know anything about these claims?

I’d only go as far as I normally would when building the coils, as said in the post, Titanium Oxide is not produced till upwards of 600F. So, if you do want to dry burn your existing Ti coil, I would only do about 1-2 pulses on about 10w for 1-2 secs, keep it mind, when Ti is not regulated it heats up quickly. You only need enough heat to break the bond between the gunk and the coil, so when you see people glowing their coils all over Youtube, I :worried:.

The rest of the gunk you can get off with a soft toothbrush and some distilled water.

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No, all TC mods do not allow for the use of both wires. The newer YIHI chips do and all the new DNA chips as well. DNA40 will, the X Cube II will, and the chipsets in the new IPV4S and IPVD2 will. If you find one you like, just look up the manufactures website and read away :smile:.

Not too sure about the Ni200, all I know is I get a funky taste, no matter how I tried to use it. So I stay away. If you want a sample, I’ll be happy to put 20ft of this unused 200ft I will never use in a envelope and send it to you. :thumbsup:

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From what i’m reading I don’t think I even want to try it, thank you so much for offering to let me try before I buy but I will stick with my kanthal and I guess titanium. I really want the X Cube II so if it will work with TI that’s probably what I will go with. It’s about harm reduction for me so if I can avoid any more harm I’m up for it from what everyone says it taste funny anyway. People say thats the nickel leeching into the vapor Thanks for your help @ryan8five0

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Thanks Ryan

For non-TC, stainless steel wire is also excellent :slight_smile:

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Very good read. I’ve been using the .50 mm for a few months. I initially used contact coils in non tc mode. I found this didn’t work with tc. My range is below .10 for flavor and vapor that I like.

I think this is more of a preference. I’m usually vaping between 500-600 degrees.

This true when using a device setup for Ti use. But most TC mods will read Ti. The draw back is it heats them as if it’s Ni200. So you have to set the temp lower for a comfortable vape. I used Ti before TC mods came out with with the Ti option and I had to lower the temp because the vape was too hot. I used it somewhere between 300-450 degrees.

Also on some TC devices you still need to set the wattage for the appropriate temp… as to not under power or over power your temp setting. There is a parallel between wattage and temp on some TC mods.

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I created a section this morning with a play by play of exactly how I set everything when I sit down and do a build. You should read that and let me know what you think!

I introduced the setting the wick part because of everything I have found about TC, setting the wick is by far the least talked about subject amongst it. Yet it is the MOST, MOST, MOST important part of the TC process, other than syncing the resistance.

Also forgot to say @Pro_Vapes I vape on mainly IPV4’s and they all have the coefficient for Ti programmed into the TC setting. These settings are only based off of a TC mod that CAN have a setting to set Ti and not just Ni! Although, the process should be the same for any TC mod and any wire no matter what.

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Let me know what you think about the step by step process I wrote up this morning!

I like it! Good guide. A couple of points:

There are many titanium grades, not just 1 and 2 - I have grade 1 but I also have an alloy (I can’t even figure out what grade it is), which also works beautifully.

TiO2 isn’t as harmful (or harmful at all?), as some would have us think… I know @Pro_Vapes feels this is important :smile:

As @Pro_Vapes I think the temperature is a matter of preference - I am currently vaping at 275o C (527o F)…

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First off, thank you.

There are several grades available in any gauge. They sell any gauge on etsy, I get most of mine from there and the 25g off eBay. I have only used grade 1 and 2 so I can’t comment on the rest. I haven’t seen much info on the others either. Maybe you have?

The oxide is not as harmful as we presumed, you’re right. The daily exposure is somewhere around 15mg if I am correct. How one could measure that off of vaping I am not sure nor qualified to say lol. I still believe that one should limit their exposure to it, especially if it is a variable we can control to the extent we can now with TC.

Vaping itself is all a matter of preference, cheers :beers:.

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I saw your post and ordered 28g and 22g. The arrived today.

@Pro_Vapes I meant to ask you, with the IPV4S/IPV3 Li how low can you set the coefficient? Can you actually use TC with stainless steel wire? 0.00094 is pretty low compared to nickel’s 0.006

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I’ve said this in several post scattered throughout this forum. TC has only become popular here in last 2 or 3 weeks. All info is welcome and thanks for your post.

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I agree I’ll listen to ANY SUGGESTIONS where temp control is discussed so I can have the best setup when making my titanium coils on rba base.
Please elaborate in anyway ya can thanks.

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