TBH the only Yihi I have is the Hadron, my usual is DNA, which to me is the best, just more expensive, but it’s worth it.
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Very true my friend, the DNA is king 
I do still love me a good Yihi chip though but the DNA250C is the chip to beat by a long shot now.
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@mjag @Tworrs I haven’t been able to try DNA mods, or any of the other Yihi chips but I find it hard to believe the Yihi chip in the Haydron “sucks balls” as everyone says. I respect y’all’s opinions and I’ve read this from many other people in just about every thread where the Hadron has been mentioned. That’s a lot of people and a lot of weight behind the words. I’ll admit I’ve become a real Steam Crave fanboy and I hate to hear negative things related to Steam Crave unless of course, it’s truly deserved.
The real reason I find it hard to believe is because I use the Hadron daily, pretty much exclusively in TCR mode and I have no qualms about it with the exception of the very infrequent failure to fire when the button is pressed. That only happens to me about 1 or 2 times a week and it only does it on 1 single button press. Hardly a deal breaker for me.
What is so bad about it? Does it suck when used in settings I never use maybe, like when used with very low watt / high ohm MTL setup? I always seem to use coils in the 0.35 to 0.15 range with the power set between 50 to 110 Joules depending on the resistance of the coils, of course.
Please let me know the particulars if you don’t mind. There is no I’ll will intended here by me, just so you know. It may just be that I’m nieve having never used a truly good Temp control mod.
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I too use the Hadron daily, but only use it in wattage mode so that I don’t have to adjust anything but the watts.
The main turn-off for me is the menu system, which after using DNA mods is very rudimentary and non-intuitive. Maybe other Yihi chips are better as has been mentioned previously.
Unfortunately until you have used a DNA mod you can’t appreciate the difference.
Of course if you are happy with the Hadron that’s all that matters, I can only offer my personal opinion.
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Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. It did take me a bit to understand the menu and how to properly use temperature control with the Hadron. The menu on it is quite rudimentary as you have stated. Properly reading the initial room temperature resistance and then locking in is not something that even shows in the menu because it’s only done with buttons and you have to learn how, there is nothing that guides you or even gives a hint. Once you know it it’s very easy to setup a new coil for temperature control mode.
Before you connect the tank/RDA press the fire button with the mod powered on, of course. This zeros the previously read or locked resistance. Then you attach the tank/RDA, fully seating the 510 connection. Before doing anything else, press and hold the middle button and the chip will read the coil resistance. A small window with the new resistance pops up and when it does you then press the fire button once momentarily and it then locks the newly read resistance value. There is nothing that indicates the value is locked which is quite annoying. I’m guessing this non-intuitve setup process has caused many people to have a bad temperature control experience with the mod. Perhaps causing them to believe the Yihi chip doesn’t to TC properly.
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The yihi chips in the G, X and T Class as well as the non SXmini mods like the Vboy and Vsticking as well as a few others you can use the standard SS316L TC setting and get excellent results. With yihi chips and TC you do have to watch your joules and boost, too high and you can get a rattlesnake effect.
With the yihi chips in the Hadron and Topside Carbon the SS316L preset is horrible, TCR must be used. First Yihi chipped mods I have had to do that with. The Topside Carbon mod also lacks a preheat function, first yihi chip I have had that lacks that as well. I have to say the yihi chip in the Topside Carbon is WORSE than the Hadron in both lacking features and the TC is worse as well.
The TC on both the Hadron and Topside Carbon can be made to work well in TCR mode but when you start going dry they can pulse instead of a smooth transition to TC. You don’t get that with the other yihi chipped mods I mentioned above unless you have the joules set too high. You can minimize that pulse by lowering your joules even further but then that effects the vape with a wet wick. I get better results doing TC with the geekvape aegis squonk with the VV SS316L 200 mesh than either the Hadron or Carbon mods. Even my 4 or 5 year old mod with the Yihi SX350j performs better for TC in TCR than these 2 mods.
I am not blaming Steamcrave nor Dovpo, the blame strictly falls on Yihi. They were one of the premier chip mfgs on the market, 2nd only to Evolve. If this is the path they are heading in then I will not purchase anymore yihi chipped mods.
The SX550j in the SXmini G class is still one of the best chips ever made. It has since been surpassed by the DNA250C but the G Class was my benchmark to judge all TC from other mods when I did reviews. The main reason it was my benchmark was for consistency since the DNA can have varying TC based on what profile a user or mfg placed in escribe. I love the flexibility of Escribe and use a custom profile for SS316L but when reviewing I wanted to have a baseline that others with the same mod could replicate. If we all have different profiles on our DNA mods then the results would not be the same.
If you enjoy the Hadron then that is all that matters. I just wanted to be clear the performance of the Yihi chip inside the Hadron is not an indication of what a GOOD Yihi chip can do when it comes to TC.
Almost forgot this. Yes, I do lock my ohms in TC by pushing and holding the center button until the ohms show up. This has been the case with all Yihi mods since I can remember going back to the SX350J.
I am a TC nut, I constantly forget when my tank is dry and would take huge rips and cough up a lung when using power mode 
. When TC is done right it is just like power mode with the added bonus of preventing dry hits if your a forgetful attention deficient individual like myself 
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Thank you so much! I believe the fairly new Haydrons’ sinking reputation is now in perspective, at least to me and others who read this. Your well written reply has reminded me how ‘off’ the SS316 factory preset is for the Haydron. I’m not sure why the majority of TC mods on the market have wire presets that are so off they can hardly be used? 
Having a unrealistic wire-type pre-set is a really big deal in the grand scheme of things. I hope the responsible parties can realize the importance of preset data for which the user has no control to adjust. How only a couple of keystrokes can be the deciding factor if a new product takes off in popularity or fades into forgotten history. I have no idea about the workings inside Yihiecigar, a chip design and manufacturing company and the party that commissions a new chip design, and anyone or anything that happens in between the two so I’m not going to assign blame. Perhaps, Yihi provides a completed chip and specifications as the commissioned product only to have a third-party contractor design the hardware/software interface or write the code to be flashed to the chip. Maybe the commissioning party, in this case Steam Crave, supplies the data values to be used in production.
When I first got my Haydron, I checked for that right away because the Smoant Cylon I have was a little better with a dialed in TCR than the preset. Same with the Vaporesso I have. I didn’t think much of it though, as TCR mode is available and I am very happy with the way it performs using a good dialed in value. I just did a quick web search and had a value that was almost spot on. With that in mind I will never purchase a Temperature Control capable device that does not come with a user controlled TCR mode. I would urge others to steer clear too unless it’s proven to provide a very satisfying TC experience with any setup you can throw at it.
If you’ve read this far I’m sorry you have nothing better to do 
Thanks again 
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In post production testing it became apparent that the Yihi chip used in the Hadron was not up to the expected performance level, and this feedback was sent back to Steam Crave.
SC are trying to organize an upgrade to the firmware from YiHi, but thus far don’t seem to have been successful in achieving the desired result.
Future products will no doubt not have the YiHi SX490 chipset installed, unless YiHi up their game with it. SC are working on it. Regrettably I wasn’t a beta tester of the Hadron.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the Hadron per se, however the YiHi chipset has let an otherwise top class product down.
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Damn Covid-19 
I really appreciated reading your response and I am glad my response made sense. TC is a very small segment of the vaping community but it is still important for many of us. If we don’t keep them honest then who will?
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I am hoping you will beta test future SC mods that have TC. Makes no sense to beta test without TC users and I know you know your stuff 
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That’s very kind of you to say.
I haven’t been made aware of a new TC mod from SC yet, but I hold out hope for one.
The Titan PWM (which we know is not a real PWM) 1.5 seems to be the next one in line, but that is just cosmetic changes with the same internals, so there was no need for me to test it.
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I value your opinion and look forward to whatever comes your way in the future my friend.
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Coming from you, that is high praise indeed, thank you 
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That was an alternative firmware that SC offered at the beginning of this year to allow the option of locking all buttons (version B), rather than the factory installed firmware (version A) that allowed the adjustment buttons to locked, but left the firing button operable.
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It looks like they both add bypass mode and a puff counter change.
I still have the original firmware. I wasn’t sure if Version A above was the original or if it was new also. I tested by holding the third adjustment button for 1.5 seconds and it just rolled through the pre-heat settings so I’m sure they are both new.
When they first rolled out the update they only had option B. It is very nice to see they added option A as I don’t understand the need to lock the fire button with the others. That option was already built-in (power Off, duh).
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Question to A Plus V2 owners that also possess the original A Plus.
@mjag @SessionDrummer @Tworrs @Lostmarbles
Will the V2’s, 8ml metal extension cap and 6mm chimney reducer fit/work with the V1. If so would it also have to have a V2 top cap?
Will just the 6mm chimney reducer fit and work with the V1?
I’m placing an order soon and now would be a good time to buy some V2 parts if they will work.
Update: —> See the results <—
Thanks
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Yes, there is cross compatibility between the Plus and Plus V2
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